Tx_operator87

The top connections that go to the radiator has what looked like tansmission fluid in it (I'm no mechanic) but not much comes out when you disconnect them. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

It was a PITA but a lot cheaper and quicker than the dealer. And the vacuum and freon isn't bad. You can rent a vacuum pump at O'Reilly's or AutoZone, you just hook it up to the low pressure port and turn it on, pull a good vacuum about 25-30mmhg and take it off and hook the freon bottle up to the same port and follow the instructions on the can. If it's under warranty and you got the time then just take it to the dealer, I just like fixing things myself, makes me feel good and I like to learn new things Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Just had to change mine a couple weeks ago at 61k miles. Mine was a 2015, a guy I work with has a 2014, both of our stock condensors were a galvanized looking color. The after market I got from O'Reilly's was black, the stock look cheap and look just tack welded on the sides. The condensor was $150 at O'Reilly's and about $100 worth of freon (a large bottle and a small bottle) was what it took me. You'll need a vacuum pump to pull a vacuum on the system to make it easier to recharge. Takes about 2 hours. Pull off the plastic, take the 2 bolts that hold the radiator and lean it back, you'll have to pull off your air filter for easier access to the metal cross member. 3 bolts on the left and 3 on the right hold the cross member on. Kind of a pain to get to them. Disconnect the 2 lines at the top from the radiator to the condenser. Unbolt the coolant lines (bottom of condenser on left side) disconnect the lines and the system will depressure. Pull old condenser out and repeat steps backwards to put new one in. Not too hard, just need an hour or 2 and some patience Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

From what I am seeing on other/older forums is that this is in fact a canadian thing due to their laws. Some people are saying that you can take it to a Chevy/gm dealer here in the states and they can reprogram the bcm. But it is a programming matter that Canada does. I'll look around more because a lot of what I was finding was discussed in 2017, so maybe some things have changed. If I find anything else I'll repost here Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

They will still come on in park/reverse if the cargo lamp switch is on. The mod should allow only the mirror lights to come on when in reverse, without having the cargo lamp switch on Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Good deal, gonna go get a diode and do this asap Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

So yours is a 16 EJ? I just traded my 15 1500 for a 16 2500HD and want to do this. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Update: pulled the Radio out and took apart the backside. The ribbon cable seemed to be in good shape, didn't look like anything was burnt up on the motherboards. Disconnected the cables and put them back on to no avail. Read on a forum for Tahoe's that some people were having an issue with the DVD screens not working and reversed the ribbon cable and that fixed it for them. Unfortunately I didn't read about that until it was all back together, will try that tomorrow and if that doesn't work I'll try just buying a new ribbon cable and see what that does Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Nah man I haven't even looked at it yet, just got used to using the steering wheel controls, has yours done the same thing? I'm on nights right now so I might try it tomorrow night at work since I'll be out there replacing my AC condenser Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Wanting to do the same thing with my 15, love the look of the 16,17,18s. Thought about trading mine in for an 18 but if I can just do a conversion like this it would be better. Same on wanting to know the price

I get the same kind of knock from the left front wheel, but its usually when going in reverse with the wheel turned fully or nearly full to the left. Its just one loud knock and I can feel it on my foot. The one person I took it to couldn't find anything wrong and I couldn't replicate it as it doesn't happen every time. A lot of posts are talking about it doing it while stationary, I haven't tried cutting the wheels while stationary so that's something I'll have to try and see if it happens. Just wonder if it doesn't happen stationary for me if it could still be the same thing that every one else is hearing?

Alright, I'll try it on my days off. Really hoping that this is the issue, I've been controlling it on the steering wheel for a while now, but it would be nice to just reach over and use the buttons. Thanks for the advice, I'll let you know how it goes

Thanks for your response. How difficult and how long did it take to disassemble it? I've watched videos on how to get the plastic trim off, but my biggest worry is messing up the plastic, probably the biggest reason I haven't taken the radio out yet

The radio buttons on my dash went out right after my electrical warranty ended. Ive checked the fuses, and from videos ive watched when the radio is removed from the dash there are only 2 wiring harnesses connected to it, one for the radio/touchscreen and one for the ac buttons. Touch screen still works, buttons on steering wheel still work, its only the radio buttons on the dash that stopped. When they stopped, it weird. I got in the truck to run some errands and they weren't working, thought okay maybe a fuse ill fix it later. A couple hours later I was leaving again to go to oreillys and when I turned the truck on they were lit up and working again. Stayed working for 2 days, went out again and never came back on. Ill try and take some pictures when I leave work tonight to show how they don't come on. Any ideas? Could it be a relay even though the whole radio is part of one wiring harness?