Fultonm11

It is is there still. I just blacked it out for personal preference. the low beam reflector, from what I can tell, is actually attached to the high beam. It was all one piece. I could not have removed it as I needed a place to mount the projector. Short of some custom 3D printed bracket, LOL! I wasn't about to take it that far.....

Thought I would post my experience and before/after photos in case anyone out there wants to do theirs and save a few hours. First, thanks to @FastWS6TA for providing the parts and advice. I think it's safe to say he has saved everyone on this thread many dollars and hours. Thanks! I have a 15 Silverado LT that had the stock Halogen reflectors, so if you have the same and want to do the retro, you should know up front it takes heavy modding to get the Morimoto D2S projectors into the factory reflector. Im sure you could buy the factory HID lights and upgrade with the Morimoto or FXR kit and have a much easier, and shorter, retrofit. However, I didnt want to spend quite that much and I was okay with modding my factory housings. I did this over the weekend, and I would definitely suggest allotting that amount of time if you have the factory halogens. If you already have HIDs, It wouldn't take as much time. I will leave some info here, but feel to PM me if you want some more detailed info: -As @FastWS6TA pointed out to me, warmup with the light to get chrome trim off. The hardest part about this process isn't getting the double sided tape to break, but getting the clips to all come out, and stay out, while you are trying to pry it off. I baked them at 265 for like 7-8 minutes to get the sticky to bake. I think I put each light in twice. Once to get it nice and warm and moving and a second time to get it free. Don't break your trim, that would really suck. -To break the permaseal: it seems like everyone has varying experiences with temperature, amount of permaseal used, and time in the oven. I used 265 at 215 minutes for the initial bake and then 7-8 minutes every time after that. The key for me was to just be patient and keep the permaseal at the right temp to work over with a small flathead or my leatherman. -Once I had the lights open, I put the housing back in a few more times to really remove as much of the old stuff that I could. I wasn't in a rush and really wanted to never do this again, so I wanted my seal job to be right. I did put the lenses in for like 4 minutes a few times to clean the edges. I used a bath towel on a cookie sheet so that the lens wouldn't be in contact with any metal. Be careful here. You don't want to melt or warp that lens; bad news! -For the hardest part: modding the reflector opening to fit the projector. I dont recall the exact measurement, but I used a dremel to remove all of the plastic around the hole, but also on the "shank" of the reflector lens. You will need to remove most of the plastic to accommodate the projector, so be careful and go slow. You will also have to take some height off of the original hole to get more threads of the Morimoto through. It needs to be at least half an inch, or shorter really, to fit the washer, projector nut, spring and lamp nut provided in the kit. My mistake was not calculating the offset that the silicon washer would add. Again, be go slow and be careful. I actually went too far on one of mine, but fixed with some Gorilla glue. -I wanted to blackout my original reflector and new projector shroud, so I used some red scotch pads to really get most of the chrome of of both. Be careful around your high beam reflectors with that pad, it doesn't take much to scratch the chrome finish off. I used some matte black krylon fusion to paint mine. Two coats on each seemed to be fine. -When mounting the shrouds, I used some JB weld to make sure they wouldn't come off. Make sure and do this when the lens is off...or it WILL come off when you are done at 1am and assembling your truck. If you would have been in my garage, you would seen a man just about in tears! Had to reopen that light on Sunday to JB weld that sucker on.... -Once you get it all installed, I would recommend installing the ballasts and hooking them up to check rotational alignment. Mine are really snug, but with some real force I can turn them. I wouldn't count on that, so just get it set and put some muscle on it. -When resealing your lights make sure that you have cleaned off all of the inside of the lenses and projector glass. You dont want some dust in there and then you seal it all in. I feel like some dust was inevitable since I was not working in a science lab, but my living room, hah! As for the retro rubber provided, I could tell that it was going to be overflowing if I put in the whole line as it came. The channels on my housings were very narrow and I didnt need all of it. I simply stretched it out and worked it with my hands until it looked right. It was very workable at room temp. For the oven part, I hit it with 265 for like 4 or 5 minutes and then pulled it out to set the lens in the seal and channel. Rinse and repeat twice for each lights to get it just right. -Lastly, I hit it with some black silicon from home depot simply because, as i stated before, I never wanted to touch this project again, so I wanted to be sure it was moisture free. You can be fairly liberal with this as the chrome trim will cover most of the seal and silicon. -Before reattaching the chrome trim I used some goo-gone to scrape off any sticky stuff or residue from the old 3M. I also picked up some gorilla branded double sided tape to reattach the chrome trim. I cut the pieces in half and used about half of much as the factory stuff. All in all, I am super happy with the way things turned out! I am not 100% sure the aim is right, but I will adjust that this week as I drive and the lights get settled. Pictures!

Right on. I installed mine, nuts on bottom, so I imagine I will run into the same scenario. Thanks for your input.

Thanks for the info truckmann. Did you buy a strut compressor tool to assist in the install?

Duplicate post

Hey everyone, As many stated, I’ve read just about all I can take of this thread and many side threads on these shocks. Just wanted to get some clarification on the measurements. I have the RC 2” spacer now, but also want to replace all 4 shocks with the 5100s on my 15 Silverado. From what I see the back shocks are 1” longer than stock. So to get the truck level, I can use the stock rear blocks, and then set the front shocks on the higher setting or keep the RC spacer plus the stock height on the new fronts, right? I see a lot of people using the top strut spacer, and I’m open to that if it’s the better option. Seems to be lots of options and opinions out there, so hit me with them.

Hey FastWS6TA, I would prefer to order through you if that’s an option; Sounds like it will be. My only hesitation, and hence ordering from TRS, was if the projector housing was threaded for the “universal” install versus the ones that are a true retrofit, like in your video. As you mentioned it all seems pretty straightforward with the exception of the lens removal. I’ll make sure to pick a day I’ll have plenty of coffee and extra patience available!

Hi all, New to the forums and new 2015 Silverado LT owner as February 18. That said, I’ve read probably the last 20 pages of this thread and about 4 other side threads on HID retros/baking lights. I’ve got the standard reflectors in my truck want to put upgrade to some HIDs. I think I’ve come to the conclusion that I will be getting a TRS universal kit and modding my factory lights. Originally, I would’ve opted for some aftermarket lights and a retro morimoto upgrade, but my pockets aren’t quite that deep currently. So, all of that to ask: has anyone installed the universal kit on their 14+ Silverado with pictures? 1. Just want to make sure they fit 2. Wouldn’t mind seeing the final. Thanks!