ShubiSnax

I don't think it's worth removing those plugs on the engine block. Just drain your coolant, fill it back up with distilled water, drive it around with the heat on for 10 mins then drain again. I'd keep running distilled water through it for another cycle or two. Driving around spools up the water pump and having the heat on helps clean out the heater core. Once it drains clear to your satisfaction, you can fill it back up with coolant and you're good to go.

Did you disconnect the battery before working on your truck? I'd triple check to make sure the terminals have a tight, solid connection.

Without winter, there would be much less appreciation for summer. Watching other people suffer from the cold brings me joy hehe. Bundle up and be prepared! I could do without the salt on the roads, but there's something about driving a 4x4 truck through the snow. Great acoustic dampening as well after a couple inches has fallen.

From GMPartsDirect.com: $35.32, $37.85, $81.93 and $92.21 but I think shipping is extra. Unless you can find some pulled from a Silverado, those are around the prices you'll be paying.

With your truck turned off, pump your brake pedal until it's firm and hold it there. Start your truck while still holding the pedal down and if the pedal doesn't move forward or get softer once the truck is started, then you have bad brake booster. It could also be your ABS kicking in at lower speeds. This is usually caused by rust buildup around the wheel speed sensor causing it to move, giving a false signal to engage ABS.

Thanks! Bilstein 5100's(front on 3rd setting, rear is stock height). Stock UCA's. Bilstein claims this is a 1.25" lift in the front, but I have a feeling it was just a bit more. I did get some rubbing on the factory mudflaps so I took a dremel and trimmed the insides just a bit. No rubbing now.

275/60/r20 Duratracs

3rd height setting and stock rear with 275/60/r20 Duratracs. I had to trim my factory mudflaps on the insides just a bit.

It's been raining here in Michigan alot lately so please excuse the dirty truck! Upgraded from 18's to 20" honeycomb brushed aluminum replicas. 5100's all around(front on 3rd setting) The GMC centercaps fit a bit loose on the replicas so I'm going to use some clear RTV silicone to seal them in place once the weather clears. Finally got rid of my factory SR-A's and replaced them with fresh 275/60/r20 Duratracs..winter is coming Edit: The tires rubbed on the way home from the shop. I had to take my Dremel to the factory mudflaps to do some trimming on the insides.

My 5100's came in the other day and no rain today so I went to install, but then I noticed the rust(after 4 years and 33k miles)... This is gonna take awhile and yes, it's as fun as it looks! I'll spray everything down with Krown rust protection when I'm done.

I believe it's the cheap, hollow out of round aluminum driveshafts that are to blame for the shake. I've seen a few people that got steel, 2-piece driveshafts installed and the vibrations were gone.

I just got all 4 from AJUSA for $335 shipped. That was the best deal I could find, although I admit I didn't look very hard.

Initial thoughts are, wow these are bright. Factory halogens don't even compare and I can already tell it's gonna take some time to get used to the dramatic cutoff. After some driving last night, I decided to aim my headlights a bit lower than stock. I just feel bad coming up over a hill or hitting some bumps and my HID's are most definitely blinding oncoming traffic. Also, I've noticed that right around the cutoff point, the light has a purple color. I really notice it when white road signs light up purple. My bulbs are Morimoto 5500k. As far as installation, it couldn't have been much easier. Phil from Fastheadlights.com was very helpful and recommended the Hylux ballast over the Morimoto. There is no wiring to the battery and no relay harness. Super easy. It was a bit time consuming, and the hardest part was cutting open the factory lights, but I took my time and everything turned out great. Driving down a dark country road with the brights on is just about the coolest thing ever haha. IMO, the LED fog lights are a must-have when you have headlights this bright. Hope this helps!

Morimoto D2S 4.0 35w retrofit, Morimoto LED fog lights and All-Terrain inner grille. Finished up just as it started raining.

Sweet ride! Did you get rid of your Silverado? I always thought your Silverado was one of the COOLEST looking trucks on this forum with the cap and it had that 2-door Yukon GT look or K5 Blazer. My buddy was looking at getting a truck and I showed him a pic of yours and he says it might have convinced him to go regular cab.