I don't think it's worth removing those plugs on the engine block. Just drain your coolant, fill it back up with distilled water, drive it around with the heat on for 10 mins then drain again. I'd keep running distilled water through it for another cycle or two. Driving around spools up the water pump and having the heat on helps clean out the heater core. Once it drains clear to your satisfaction, you can fill it back up with coolant and you're good to go.
TXGREEK is on point here. Tires are a big factor, but you can't overlook suspension and brakes and most of us have seen videos or testimony of GM driveshafts exploding on a dyno between 100 and 110mph.
Personally, I don't think a muffler delete sounds good at all. Replace your muffler with a performance muffler of your choice and delete the resonator. Generally speaking, the larger muffler you install, the quieter it will be.
Without winter, there would be much less appreciation for summer. Watching other people suffer from the cold brings me joy hehe. Bundle up and be prepared! I could do without the salt on the roads, but there's something about driving a 4x4 truck through the snow. Great acoustic dampening as well after a couple inches has fallen.
From GMPartsDirect.com: $35.32, $37.85, $81.93 and $92.21 but I think shipping is extra. Unless you can find some pulled from a Silverado, those are around the prices you'll be paying.
I upgraded my 14 Sierra with Morimoto D2S 4.0 projectors with 5500K bulbs and they are AWESOME. The retrofit wasn't hard, did both headlights on a Saturday. Also got the Morimoto LED fog lights and it matches perfectly. Cost me around $500 for full HID retrofit AND LED fogs, which is fair considering what an upgrade it is.
With your truck turned off, pump your brake pedal until it's firm and hold it there. Start your truck while still holding the pedal down and if the pedal doesn't move forward or get softer once the truck is started, then you have bad brake booster. It could also be your ABS kicking in at lower speeds. This is usually caused by rust buildup around the wheel speed sensor causing it to move, giving a false signal to engage ABS.
Thanks! Bilstein 5100's(front on 3rd setting, rear is stock height). Stock UCA's. Bilstein claims this is a 1.25" lift in the front, but I have a feeling it was just a bit more. I did get some rubbing on the factory mudflaps so I took a dremel and trimmed the insides just a bit. No rubbing now.
It's been raining here in Michigan alot lately so please excuse the dirty truck! Upgraded from 18's to 20" honeycomb brushed aluminum replicas. 5100's all around(front on 3rd setting) The GMC centercaps fit a bit loose on the replicas so I'm going to use some clear RTV silicone to seal them in place once the weather clears. Finally got rid of my factory SR-A's and replaced them with fresh 275/60/r20 Duratracs..winter is coming Edit: The tires rubbed on the way home from the shop. I had to take my Dremel to the factory mudflaps to do some trimming on the insides.
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