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flowbytwo

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About flowbytwo

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  1. True story. The backup camera on the truck in my 19 is so good it immediately made me realize how terrible the video quality is on the trailer wireless camera... that said I still would like the trailers camera to work as it is nice to have as a way to check behind the trailer while on the road.
  2. Clunking trans has little to do with my backup camera on my trailer (maybe my camera doesn’t work because my trans has been perfect?). I am going to push this issue with GM further. A super simple way to prove the truck is malfunctioning... unplug the trailer 7-wire plug and use a jumper with fuse between the 12v and parking terminals. The parking lights come on and the camera works perfectly... plug into truck and it flashes again. I don’t care why I only care that it is broke and they need to fix it.
  3. I have an airstream with the review camera and I am also experiencing this issue. I had planned to see if the issue was related to ripple on the dc line to the camera by using a direct feed (tapped in at the wiring junction for the 7-wire pig tail. If that fixes it I would simply put a relay (and probably a load resister to fool the computer that the lights still work) to switch parking lights over to the constant hot DC system. If this is an interference issue then I wonder how they got approval for these components from the FCC? I mean anyone driving their new GMC past someone else with a review camera would cause it to cut out. That seems like a pretty serious issue (and I would be surprised if that is the case).
  4. I wish there was a way to keep a mode set... while they are at it make tow/haul turn on when a trailer is connected instead of only showing a stupid alert to turn it on. Probably some gas mileage / EPA thing...
  5. Given that rear view camera for the mirror is in the middle of the third brake light it is certain that a camper shell of any type is going to block it. Your only hope would potentially be a shell that somehow relocated that camera from the existing brake light to the back of the shell and that is not very likely to happen.
  6. All the 6.2 engines come with the 9.76 axle... seemingly the lighter payload/RAWR is due to shocks and springs. In in my experience with an AT4 6.2/10-speed the limits of 15k GCWR/3800RAWR are pretty conservative and I would have no issue using all of that capacity comfortably. That is to say I don’t feel the need to oversize this truck by some large amount because it seems the factory already has things setup for higher capacity with minor changes. I tow about 12,500 GCWR (CAT scale verified) and the truck handles it great.
  7. The above makes me wonder how different the inevitable larger diesel tank will be from a gasoline tank in terms of fittings, etc. If it is the same and there isn’t anything weird required to update the computer for the new size there wouldn’t be anything preventing the swap from a physical do-it-yourself standpoint. I bet that large space in front of the tank will be for DEF though... will be interesting to see what this tank looks like.
  8. Also payload bragging rights... a bigger tank will pull a couple hundred off those metrics and also make the trucks look more like everyone else.
  9. Titan has some nice products... but all those tanks are for diesel fuel.
  10. Definitely something wrong with your setup. I have over 6000lbs in my trailer and properly hitched my AT4 sits a little over an inch off the stops. CAT Scale had this setup at 12360. That at said I am still tuning things and I plan to add some airbags to stiffen things up when towing as I am up near the RAWR and I could move a little more weight to the other axles with the hitch. No trouble handling this load in the 1000 miles I have over many notable Idaho and Montana passes. The 6.2L and ten speed just works great. 11MPG average with near 14 on the flat when their isn’t wind (it isn’t very flat here ;-) ). If only GM would put this setup in an HD... would probably steal too much money from their over priced diesel.
  11. I use a blueox with my 6500lbs trailer/AT4. Has been good for me. I purchased it from Amazon for a reasonable price and it came with a highly adjustable drop. Install was super easy as well.
  12. I have one. Folding down the way it does isn’t great because cargo inevitably slides up and blocks it... you can’t of course open the lid and reach it cause it is blocked so you end up crawling inside to pull things out. It it is very light weight and vibrates in the wind... but so far seals well against the rain. Overall I don’t hate it but I wouldn’t buy one again. I would look for something with t-slot mounts for bars over the cover (think bike rack or gear basket) and as much as I thought it was a bad idea before I would get one with a can to roll up inside to prevent cargo from sliding in and blocking it.
  13. Excellent info. Thanks for the update (and saving me some scratch)
  14. Longer term update? How have these been working out for you? Considering pulling the trigger on this same upgrade, perhaps with the auto-level sensor upgrade too.
  15. I have said in the past I would get a custom tank made... still might happen but feels much lower on the priority list after this past weekend. I pulled my 6320lbs travel trailer from Portland back in to Montana. Overall average across 3 notable passes and despite a mild headwind on the second day was 11.3mpg at 65mph. Typical range was 11-13mpg on the instant read with a few spots where the wind and grade didn’t fight me netting 14. Near enough to 200 miles a tank. If it came to it I would dump the 5 gallons from my genny’s can. The little Honda never seems to go through it so I wouldn’t be too worried about not having a little extra.
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