Blue5.3l

The mirrors will still defrost and the window still slides just won’t defrost with the fuse pulled.

They hang over enough to cover the plastic cap on the bed rails. Most of the big name company’s are this way. With the cheaper companies sitting on the cap.

The Leer dealer ran new wires and connected them in the drivers side sill plate like they did before the locking tailgates. Dealer says first one that has came back since they started hooking the wires in the tailgate. We shall see if this works long term.

The Leer dealer ran new wires and connected them in the drivers side sill plate like they did before the locking tailgates. Dealer says first one that has came back since they started hooking the wires in the tailgate. We shall see if this works long term.

I’ve had my Leer camper shell with electric lock for the hatch for six months. All was good. Then one day I happen to check the tailgate and it wasn’t locking anymore. Just the glass was locking and unlocking with the factory remote. Took it to my GMC dealer and they undid the wires that were t-tapped in the tailgate lock. The lock and unlock on the tailgate worked again. Everything else was a plug and play harness for the cap. Tried Posi-Taps and had the same results. I’ve heard the drivers side door rocker area has wires to tap into. With that said where did your dealer get the signal for the lock at? Could the module that unlocks the hatch be bad. Going to the Leer dealer this weekend to see what they can find but they say they never had any issues on the K2 trucks.

I’ve had my Leer camper shell with electric lock for the hatch for six months. All was good. Then one day I happen to check the tailgate and it wasn’t locking anymore. Just the glass was locking and unlocking with the factory remote. Took it to my GMC dealer and they undid the wires that were t-tapped in the tailgate lock. The lock and unlock on the tailgate worked again. Everything else was a plug and play harness for the cap. Tried Posi-Taps and had the same results. I’ve heard the drivers side door rocker area has wires to tap into. With that said where did your dealer get the signal for the lock at? Could the module that unlocks the hatch be bad. Going to the Leer dealer this weekend to see what they can find but they say they never had any issues on the K2 trucks.

If I remember right the GM mats have a lip on the mat which the Husky mats don’t. To use the GM mat you would probably have to use the GM under seat storage bin. I used the Red Hound Auto bin with the full Husky mat because it stores more then the Husky bin. You could cut the GM mat to make the Husky fit better. Some mats go under the rear seat and some stop before the seat.

I’ve been think of pulling the fuse or relay also. Do the heated mirrors still work when the button is pushed?

Pulling the relay for the rear defroster might be an option. There are separate relays for the open and close operations.

I usually get Wix but have been getting the Baldwin Filters B7449 for my 2018.

In my area the SLT Premium Plus is $12,000-$13,000 off sticker with GMAC financing plus another $2,000 off if you qualify for the GM lease loyalty rebate.

When I was looking for my cap ARE didn’t have the one piece glass for the sides but they did have the better hinges like on the Leer 100XQ. Which are different then other Leer’s with the one open handle. The latch mechanism on the Leer was good on the showroom but once installed and adjusted it could be better. I was able to get keyless on my Leer cap.

I have the Leer 100XL. Paint color also changes the price. Don’t forget to get the online coupon to help on the price. Luckily my blue was not an extra cost. Some places wanted to splice into the factory wiring instead of using a harness that plug and plays. The factory LED tail lights require a different harness.

It could be done if you had custom brackets made or modified for the bumper of the 1500 to fit the 2500 frame and put the 1500 grill on the 2500.

You can get the 6’-6” bed in a crew cab 1500 they are just hard to find.