JONBLARC7

To add to mine above I'm in a 2014 6.2, 6L80e trans. 3.42 rear with a cam and heads on 93. Put in E85 and it would be down 3-4 mpg.

Same here with 33" 22x12 2.5 leveling kit and 1.5 body lift. At 60 to 65 I can get around 18-19 mpg if there is no stop and go. At 75 to 80 it's more like 15 to 16 mpg

For those clips on the back of the intake. Un-bolt the in-take completely then pick it up and push the front of the in-take over the the drivers side as far as you can. Then come in from the the passenger side behind the intake. And use your tool to pop the clips out. Then cut those bitches off and never think about them again.

Yea I can't wait. The plan was to do full bolt on's then cam then boost. But that lifter had a mind of it's on. I got a wideband ready to go on the truck now but I'll just wait until the end of March when I get the headers to add the wideband into the Y pipe. Then I'll redo the whole tune with the added headers and CAI. Then will see how this cammed 6.2 with bolt-on's and E85 does. If you haven't done E85 do it. You can feel the difference. I added the sensor for 65 bucks and just enable the stock table in the tune myself since I have HP tuners and you could feel the power it picked up.

Right now I have stock CATs and stock exhaust manifolds on it. Along with the mild magnaflow 12909 that I had on my last 2008 6.2 with headers and loved the way it sounded. I say all that to say with the stock cat and exhaust manifold and mild muffler it's not real noticeable. I can here it but I know it's there. Now after I got it together I ran it for 30 mins or so without the stock muffler hooked up and it sounded just like you would think a cammed 6.2 would sound. But it would be to loud for my wife and 4 year old. And I couldn't imagine pulling the boat that way. But I'll have headers and not cats on here real soon and it should sound nasty once it all comes together.

Well my tires and wheels are really heavy, like 115 pounds a piece for 22x12 and 33" mud tires. So don't take mine as what a truck with stock tires would get. But cruising down the hwy I get 18 to 19 mpg after the cam and around 14.5 in the city. I lost maybe 1 mpg after i installed the cam. BUT i think my right foot has more to do with it and the extra power.

love the cam and the remote tune went really smooth. Atomic Performance and fabrication killed it, I never waited more than 12 for an updated tune. It was my first cam swap so it was a learning experience. The main problem I ran into is, if you buy a cam with a 32% fuel lobe. You need to measure for the lash cap, which isn't that hard. The problem I had is TSP says you need a comp cams lash cap. But after failing two different HPFP pumps after a week or two of driving I started to question them and they insisted I had the right lash cap. Then I found a thread on the corvette forum about how you need to measured for the right lash cap because TSP was wrong on there 6.2 engines. So I followed their instructions and it came out the with the comp cams lash cap I was .018 thousands over and was bottoming out the HPFP. I put the LS7 lash cap on which gave me .002 of tolerance. And it's been great for the last 5000 miles The cam is great and I didn't lose any low end. Now it pulls hard all the way to my 6200 shift point. It also holds gears better pulling my 24 foot wakeboat too.

DOD delete is important because you remove the head and replace those crap AMF lifters with LS7 lifters. I had a broken spring on number 5 exhaust valve I believe at 120K miles on my 2014 L86. But got very luck and it didn't drop the valve. I think it was 5 dollars for the updated spring from GM and 35 for the spring compression tool from Texas Speed and I was back on the road. THEN A month later I pulled out of a parking lot a lifter on number 7 stuck. I drove it back to the house about a mile away sounding like shit. Then it made a bang and all the lights went away and it started running fine. I guess the stuck lifter released. But now I had a tick. So I pulled it in the garage and did DOD delete and TSP 218/226

Know way I know of but it’s not hard to pull the drivers side valve cover and take a peak. Just leave the coils on the valve cover and pull the plug wires off the coil. Then it’s like 6 or 8 bolt to take it off. The cover on top of the valve cover just pops off

Ask me how I know

Correct but if you have an early 2014 L86 with stock springs beware running it that high. They had problems with valve springs breaking. They had yellow paint on them. They later switched to the valve spring with blue paint that was updated design.

Nice if you did a cheap E85 conversion like I did. You would be in the 430 maybe 440 range.

Mind if I ask what rpm are you shift at WOT? I’m trying to get mine to shift at 6200

Oh and I have my idol set to 735 and it feels stable. I tried it lower at like 685 or something but it wasn’t stable at low speed on off throttle situation. And would stall if you where try to back into a parking spot on a steep hill if you had to get on and off the throttle a bunch

I have the same cam in my 2014 L86. I had the head ported and a valve job by a local shop while I had them off. I never dynoed it but if feels like it pick up all over. I was just working on my 1-2 and 2-3 shift points and it was showing I was spinning all the way through 1st with 50% throttle applied. This is with 115 pounds worth of 22x12 wheels and 33” tire. i just pulled my 6800 pound wakeboat home yesterday and it holds gears better than the stock cam. So it doesn’t lose any torque.