JONBLARC7

I have head,cam, forged pistons plus all the bolt-ons in the that combo. It's will blow the tires off 1-2. But it won't chirp the tires like my wifes Scat Pack or her old SRT8. Once it looses traction it's gone and the tires just start spinning. I set the trans to shift harder at one point but in the 6l80e it just feels like it's going to break sometime.

I just rebiult my L86 alittle over a year ago. It already had head cam from and stuck lifter. Then rod bear 1 and 2 ate them selfs. Now it's heads cam forged pistons. 1. I replace radiator because it shares the oil cooler. And oil cooler lines 2. Oil pump and pick up tube, If you pull the pick up tube out of the pan the new one needs to be press in at the machine shop. Learned that the hard way. 3. Deleted vacumm pump it was fool of metal. 4. lifters and trays even though they only had 50K miles on them. 5. machine shop clean and assimbled the short block with new bearings, crank, and pistons. Reused 6 of the old rods. They only charged 500$ bucks for labor and it was well worth it.

Damn I didn't know they where that expensive

Mind if I ask how much you paid for the Y pipe. I have one under the house I could let go since the way my exhaust is now. It can never go back on this truck.

Yes, I still use the older cable model but that one will work.

I would just get HP tuner your self and change the shift points. That's not that complicated and there are plenty of video's on youtube to show you how to do it. And you can always ask on here and get some answers.

I would think about a new radiator and oil cooler lines. The radiator has the oil cooler built into it. I replaced mine when I lost two rod bearings.

Since you have to take the brake vacuum pump of anyway. Go ahead and buy the pulgs and delete it. So you don't have to worry about it going out and sending metal through the engine.

I beleive his is a 5.3 with the 6L80e, mine is same trans just with the 6.2.

Tow mode will still work just as it did before unless you go in and change it to. I still use tow mode when hauling heavy. If I just have a jet ski or empy trailer I don't use my tow mode. I don't want it shifting to high under a heavy load. My truck shifts around 6,300 rpms at wide open trottle.

I'm with Newdude. Just because you changed the coils and wires doesn't mean you fixed all possible missfire problems. If the cat is bad it's because of a missfire. The cat is down stream of the engine and probable not cause of a missfire. I will make it run rough but not cause a specifice miss fire in 3 and 5 only. You need to go get a cheap scanner and read your codes again. It could be an injector which is common. And pray it's not a lifter.

I used these video's more than I expected when rebiulding my L86 so thank you. I've done heads and cam with DOD delete. Then 50K miles later a complete rebiuld with Diamonds pistons because of 2 spun rod bearings. The one mistake I saw is you don't need an alingment tool for the crank seal. It's not like older LS motor's. The block has alingment dows for the front cover.

Not sure if this is it. But check just above the muffler. There is a heat shield that can come lose and flap in the wind at cruising speeds. I happen to me when I put my 1.5" body lift on. There was more wind getting up under the truck and making it tap the bottom of the cab. I couldn't get the video to load. I have the same setup on my truck but now I have forged pistons.

Problem with injector swap is. You have to pull all the injectors on that rail at the same time. Then put all new O rings back onto each injector. And that is a huge pain in the ass. I've done it a couple time on my truck. If want to go that route let me know and I have a really good video saved on how to do the seals without any speacial tools.

The valve spring on my failed at 120K miles but like you said it didn't drop the valve. So it was actually a esay fix once I got the truck towed back to my house.