movario

I have the 2014 Silverado version of those lights and I am happy with my purchase. They are expensive, but the build quality is good. At that time it was the only possibility to upgrade to LED Headlights, as those are DOT Certified. LED Bulb Kits and all that stuff are not legal here and will get you fined.

So to share some detail for others running in the same problem. I replaced the bearing without damaging or removing the vses rings. I used that tool and a slide hammer: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W89326-Bearing-Puller/dp/B002GT423Y I used the one with the smallest diameter. You can fit it between the bearing and the VSES Ring. With that you can take the bearing out without damaging the VSES ring. Before taking the bearing out, measure the depth of the bearing, so you can hammer it in to the right postion.

Keep in mind that you need a special tool for the PTFE seals of the injectors. And pay attention to not bend the fuel line, even with the special tools it was a hard task to get this rail off.

There are aftermarket cats for around 500$ (for example walker). Those are the complete Y-unit with all cats. I don't know about workshop prices in your country, but it's around 1h of work to change. I would go with that. What are the fault codes? What exactly is broken about the cats? If you have a leaking injector, the new cats will also go bad quickly.

A blinking Check Engine Light indicates only misfires. Nothing todo with the catalytic converter. There are a lot of reasons for misfires. Bad plugs, bad ignition coils, low fuel pressure, bad injectors, broken valves, lifters, compression issues and so on. I really think you should perform a step by step fault analysis.

That does not sound like a catalysator issue. I think you should start with a systematic fault analysis instead of just changing parts. Otherwise you probably end up wasting a lot of money. As @newdude said, what are the fault codes?

Is it molten or loose? Or do you have fault codes? The cat should normally last until the car is gone or the converter is stolen

This new technology is over 30 years old. So even experienced drivers should know this technology by now. The way you describe that traction control is working at the moment doesn't seem to be right. Normally, the traction control should slow down the tire spinning to fast by applying the brakes and reducing engine torque. The wheels that stand still should be able to spin freely. You could lift that vehicle off the ground so that all the wheels are able to spin freely. When you then start to "drive" you can check if the front wheels are really locked. If that is the case something is wrong. Another question. That vehicle seems to be quite heavy with a lot of weight on the rear axles. Why are the wheels starting to loose traction so fast in the first place? Your choice of tires may not be right for a snowy environment.

Thanks. Then I think I will get away cheaper if I just buy new VSES Rings. Those are around 50$ per piece.

Hi I want to exchange the rear axle shafts because of vibration. I will also change the axle seals. I thought about changing the rear axle bearing (or you may call it wheel bearing) too. Unfortunately, you seem to need a special tool because otherwise you'll damage the VSES Ring in the axle tube. I looked at ebay and amazon, but only found the standard tools which will probably damage the vses unit in the axle tube. Or the J-45857 tool, which costs over 300$. This guy already had that problem: Any advice on how to change the bearing without damaging the vses unit? Any tools that will replace the J-45857 and are cheaper?

I only replaced the valve body. I kinda hoped that worn checkballs were the reason. But that wasn't the case. I also thought about a new TCU, but those are expensive and would require programming (as you can't get them preprogrammend). And given that Chevys aren't sold where I live, I wanted to avoid that.

Ah yes sure. I was talking about the pressure being to low on the fuel pump (due to wear). I totally forgot that these pumps can leak into the engine. You are right, the pump leaking into the engine (and the fuel pressure still being ok) would not cause a check engine light.

I would start again from the beginning. When increasing the rpm over 2500RPM is the alternator charging (tested directly with a voltmeter on the B+ terminal of the alternator)? What voltage do you read on that terminal? What voltage do you read if you measure the B+ terminal against the alternator case? What voltage do you read if you measure the B+ terminal against Battery - ? After that, I'd check the "D+" terminal. As this is probably a PWM signal, you should check that with an oscilloscope. I'd double check ALL the fuses, maybe on died because of the old alternator. You mentioned that you checked the wiring. How did you check it? Did you measure loss of voltage in idle and under load? A circuit that is fine under idle, can die under load.

I had the same problem with my 2014 5.3. Not the high oil level, but smell of unburnt fuel and high fuel consumption. Oil smelled like fuel. I replaced all the injectors, and since then, everything is fine. A defective high pressure fuel pump would cause at least an check engine light, and would cause the engine running lean, not rich. A faulty injector can leak and cause this issue without causing a check engine light. Other probable causes for an engine running too rich are: - Defective coolant temp sensor --> Is the engine temperature within plausible levels? - Defective Thermostat --> Are you getting the engine to operating temperature? Especially on highway speeds? - Defective O2 Sensor --> Depending on the mls you may replace them anyways, as they age. - Defective MAF Sensor --> Already mentioned - Heavy short distance driving But most certainly i'd suspect the fuel injectors. I wouldn't recommend driving like this for too long, as the fuel washes away the oil film on your cylinders and may cause additional wear.

Anyone know if it is possible to modify heated leather seats with memory that they gain the cooled function? My leather seat cushions and the seatcover itself needs replacement because of wear and tear. So I thought to buy vented seat covers and retrofit all the stuff needed. Anyone know what parts differ or if it's even possible.

So, I replaced the valve body and still no difference. BUT after replacing, I accidentially overfilled the transmission slightly. And the noise was almost always there and much louder. After I corrected the fluid level to the correct HOT level, the noise was back to normal. So I suspect it has something to do with the fluid. Someone mentioned he changed the transmission oil to another manufacturer, and that solved the problem. I used Ravenol Oil (German Manufacturer) with Dexron VI specification. But maybe I should try AcDelco/GM Genuine?

I still have some highway vibration in my 2014 Silverado. The diveshaft is already balanced and u-joints are replaced. Torque Converter and engine/transmission mounts are new. The wheels are also balanced, and I have the vibration with 2 different sets of wheels. Now I measured the runout of the rear axle shaft (only left side for now) and noticed they have a runout on the flange of 1.5mm (0,0590551 inch). GM says normal would be a radial lash of 0.05mm or 0.002in. I measured on the outer diameter of the flange. Can this cause the vibration? Any recommendations what type of axle I should use? Dorman, GM Genuine oder Richmond? What could cause that axle to runout that much?

I'm not 100% sure, but I think there is no functionality lost. The calls come up in the cluster. The only thing I noticed, when watching (hearing) youtube videos on the road the audio is about 2-5 seconds delayed. Quality and so on is fine, it's just not synchronized with the picture. But as I don't look at it anyways it doesn't bother me.

I have AAwireless. It works well, but the last update screwed some things up a little. I have to wait 2 or 3 minutes till it works. But after that, it works flawless. And I think the reason is the phone (S22+, lots of issues, wouldn't recommend) because it has a lot of other issues aswell. And when I drive close to one specific airport, it disconnects. But I guess they have something going on on the frequencies Android Auto and AAwirless uses.

Have you tried to block the exhaust tip when idleing and have another person "hear" for leaks?

I don't suspect that the line itself would burst or leak, but i guess the fitting is (or at least could be) the problem. The reason here would be that BMW uses a completely different type of fitting. Those are reusable, yes. Im just saying that, because as a (ex)tow truck driver, I saw a lot of "you don't need to replace that, even though the manufacturer says you have to" fail and cause a lot of trouble. Newer (Euro) VWs require that the oil plug needs to be replaced after every time. Had a lot of them fail (stupid construction) because they weren't replaced. Or brake caliper bolts and so on.

I wouldn't try it. I guess there is a reason why GM even puts a label on the pipe that you need to replace it after unscrewing. I guess if you would use that pipe again you would probably overtighten it or something else.

Thanks, i'll check on that. That's something I also consider. But that would mean transmission out again

No, is still there. Torque Converter is new. I suspect that the problem is with worn checkballs in the valve body. Those are made vom plastic and get worn over time. I think that those let a little fluid pass by which causes the noise.

If the starter breaks after a short while again, and you have a electrical smell, then it's often the starter gear that does not retract. The reason for that is often a stuck ignition switch. Is your ignition key feeling "weird"? Like very easy or very hard to turn?