clowe1243

What do you mean, like another middleman? Really needed my truck this weekend to pull my trailer, but after almost a month, its still not done. Service advisor is at least going to put me in a 2026 Colorado today that cant even pull my trailer. I feel like putting someone else between the dealer and I would just delay things further. What really needs to happen, GM needs to drop the suit, accept they messed up, and start paying for their mistake. Or is it only acceptable for us (The taxpayer), to bail GM out. Ended up having the buy a cheap, but reliable 2018 Maxima, and it feels like I'm going to grow a uterus. Now all the sudden a vehicle is available. So now I'm 18k for the car; 13k for the motor. And who knows what else they will try to delay and add on. This truck is going to be sold immediately, and GM will never see another dime from me.

Dealer called back, not just lifters, but the shavings in the oil pan, can pay them more diag to tear it down, but would cost another 3-5k. So decided new motor, 13k comes with 3 more years of warranty. So said screw it. Got to get it fixed to be worth anything. Can upsell the new motor a bit for the 43k quote from the dealer after repair. Going to see how that goes. Looking at the 2026 Chevy 2500 ZR2 6.6L gas, but really dont like the price tag. Maybe something else will come out in the next year or two that will I did think about going independent and having them pull the motor and rebuild without DOD (with some upgrades of course), came out to about 10k (Lifters, cam, pushrods, crank, etc). Of course that assumes my block doesn't need machining. It will cost me more if they tear it down and the block isn't good. Same as dealer. So in the mean time, I'm done with DOD and the 6.2L in the near future; all of the trucks (RAM, GM, Ford, Toyota) have issues because of it. Going to buy this cheap, but good on gas, 2016 Miata tomorrow to get around town. Tired of riding the bike in the rain just to get the milk. WHO KNOWS, MAYBE GM WILL REIMBURSE ME BY 2035! 56k miles and a bad engine just doesnt make sense to me. Even if I would have got the extended warranty, it would have ran out too.

Well...went to drive to work this morning, and it kicked the bucket. Its at the another dealer now; dont trust the previous one that just said "You do have powertrain noise.". Hopefully just lifters and pushrods. Fingers crossed they dont rape me, but I'm sure it will be 10k rebuild or 13k for crate. Just sad this happened at only 56k miles.

5k always...maybe twice did it go ~100 miles past waiting for royal purple to be delivered. I really doubt an oil quality issue. Today, at a bar, a GMC mech, so who knows how valid; suggested switching to 5w40 (the lifter failure "fix") which is still in court. I honestly just need, but probably wont get, it's not a lifter failure, as a response. If trans failure on the 10 speed, going 6.6L, it would be the same problems. For all of that, I'd go Ford Godzilla motor.

Need a little advice here before I just trade the truck in for a 2500 6.6L L8T and SPA it. Really dont want to be left with a broken truck and lose value. Just replaced my oil lines due to leaking, never leaked more than half a quart between 5k oil changes (barely noticeable on dip stick). Afterwards, hopefully just paranoia, I hear a distinct powertrain noise. Could have always been there, but now paying more attention. Pretty sure the leak wouldn't have caused some kind of oil delivery issue to some of the internals. I really don't think its the direct injection system, as that is still pretty distinct. Took the truck into the dealer, and specifically asked for someone who has worked on the L87 (6.2) lifter failure, and they stated if it was the lifters/cam failing or making that noise, I would have a CEL and misfires/performance decrease. Which I do not. 2019 L87 6.2L 10 Speed 56k miles (Outside Warranty)

I meant front diff...smh...lol

Pretty sure your refering to the vehicle not starting cleanly, like a stutter. If so then yeah...it's happened to me a few times with the OEM AGM battery. When it starts correctly and you drive, the CEL will clear itself. Took it as a sign of the battery failing, so just replaced it. Hasn't happened again.

Swap went well. But I know now why they want to lower coolant hose and radiator fans removed. It was a pita routing them the correct way. Thanks to the lift, the front diff wasn't in the way much at all. Took about 4 hours of swapping position between under the hood, under the truck, and inside the fender, over and over again. If this happens again, I will be doing AN lines at the rubber hoses.

Replacing mine tomorrow evening for the same issue. Hell, even took a picture of them and CHATGPT told me the issue. Going to take the old ones and replace the hose with AN fittings and hose. Depending on the weather this coming winter, may need them sooner or later.

We have been asking for this forever...at least since vehicle cams have been added to vehicles. One person cracked it on here (cant find it), but they replaced every camera and the head unit with something custom. The research was done, had something to do with factory cameras not being standard steaming protocols and hard drives overheating. I deal with this just with my raspberry pi running Android OS for headunit streaming.

Joining the club, mine just started (or atleast was noticed). Thanks to this post, I was a little more relieved it wasn't just me (Out of warranty a while now). The cover that is under it caught oil for quite a bit. If it wasn't for for removing the cover while inspecting my lifts bolt, would have never noticed. No burning oil, no drips in my parking spots. My best guess is it was so little, I never caught low oil on the dip stick. Google and the recall in cold climates tells me its weather related; couple cold years in DMV recently. 2019 6.2L with 55k miles. Besides going custom AN hoses and fittings, and even aftermarket oil cooler, cant find an upgrade. It is what it is, 7 years is this is my only issue thus far, I'll take it. Still don't understand why they want to drop the coolant hose for the swap. But my replacement will be here tomorrow, I'm sure I will figure it out why...lol.

Truck is a 19 Silverado 6.2L 10-Speed 4wd. Took it into a dealer for my 45k maintenance, cause quite frankly, its too cold outside. Already done everything but the transmission fluid/filter change. Need to drop the exhaust just to drop the pan; PITA. Dealer said I don't need to do the filter, and just needed to do the fluid. The proceeded to quote me $639 at a $185/hr rate. 2.5 hours to just drain and refill sounds like a rip off, but I digress. My issue isn't with the price, its with them stating I don't need to do the filter, when the manufacturer says to do it at 45k. Any suggestions? I already did the transfer case, and they said that was not needed until 60k. Obviously I walked out and decided I will be doing it myself. But do I need to do the filter or not?

Welp...I'm thinking so as well now. Just did the front brakes and its fainter now, but still there. Gotta pay to play I guess. 40k and a wheel bearing goes bad. They dont just replace the bearing now, its the whole hub. Another ~200 and another wait is in my future.

Hey guys, I'm pretty sure I correct, but would like opinions. Vehicle is a 19 Silverado HC w/ 43k miles and BDS 6" Coilover Lift. BDS upper control arms as well. This is only when in 2WD operation. havnt had anywhere to test 4wd as of yet. Front breaks are a bit low, so I'm upgrading to x-drilled\slotted rotors and getting new pads. However, recently, when in full turn to left, I get what sounds like a wire wrapped around my CV axles or stuck in the rotor, from the left wheel. Does not happen at full right turn. Usually, I would say CV axle is going bad, but when I try to move them around by hand, I get the same play (about 1/4" from each). The CV boots are intact, and I see nothing indicating bad wear. Any ideas?

I'm running 37's on the factory 22's with a 6.5" lift. Minor trimming of the inner fender well. Factory are 275/50r22 which is roughly 33". Can only imagine you can get to 35" with minor trimming, if any. I searched the gallery on customoffsets, and there are some trailbosses running 35's stating just moving a couple brackets. You should be good.

Forgot to add, are you driving in 2wd or auto?

If I had to guess...assuming 4wd, and where to start looking for loose bolts...CV's, upper and lower control arms, front rack mounts/drop bracket. Looking at the 6" kit for your truck, that looks to be where someone could have forgot to torque a bolt after install. Did you go through after 500 or so miles and re-torque everything? From experience, I had two upper control arm bolts back out and cause a serious left turn while braking; different kit.

I have slight rub on inner fender well, on 6.5" lift, stock offset, in reverse (or big compression while at full turn), without trimming. So can only imagine, you would definitely have to trim quite a bit...depending on your offset, might be a different location.

Contact them directly, I'm pretty sure its just a usb upgrade; I just never did it. https://www.rangetechnology.com/support/

Just looked at this youtube, and honestly seems like the easiest thing in the world! Did GM actually make something better?!?! No more caliper c-clamps? No more removing calipers? No more spraying brake clean everywhere!!!! WHAT!!!! lol Haven't had to change my brakes yet, sorry for the excitement!

Completely sounds like the dfm lifter failure that is still in a class action lawsuit. Curious if you disabled it ever? Knocking on wood that I disabled it early enough to prevent the lifter failure; fingers crossed someone comes out with a hardware delete at some point.

I'm running the 6" BDS coilover kit too, which is actually yielding 6.5". Running 37s on a 10-speed however and which I believe is 3.23. Have seen no issues from a dig and or highway passing. In regards to the tuner, I currently running a Pulsar LT (Not really a tuner); and waiting for a moment to be without my truck, to send my ECU in to Superchips (Holly) for mod'ing. Already have the SC tuner. All together with 37s, lift, AFM disabled, start-stop disabled, I average 18-20 highway, 15-17 city, DC traffic sometimes as low as 9mpg...smh. And here's a picture just because I love my truck!

Waiting for an opportunity to be without my truck for 3 days. Need to send my ECU in.

37x12r22 grocery get'er!

Without opening the gear box or the motor, a complete assembly when you purchase new ~$500 per side (they are side specific), there is no way of telling. Only thing you can really test is the voltage delivered to the plugs and compare it to the voltages on the driver side. I figure the cheapest thing to try would be to lube all the joints after that. I bet the gears are delrin, so the teeth are probably eaten up. If I had a 3D printer working, I'd print one off for you to test.