No offence to the OP, but this is why anyone who wants to tow a trailer heavy enough to requiring trailer brakes should be required to take a course and have an endorsement on their license. Anyone towing a camper should at the bare minimum know there is such a thing as an weight distribution hitch (their safety and everyone else's on the road), along with how to properly set trailer brake gain on their controllers, learn how to effectively back a trailer, turn with a trailer, etc. I can't count the number of times I've seen a truck towing a camper and they don't even know what it does or how to set it, or they can't back it up more than 5 feet without losing it, cut corners too short and take the curbs with the trailer, etc. Sorry for the rant. To the OP, please go to trailerlife.com and download their latest (2019) tow guide (will show trailer ratings for all vehicles of every make and model) and read the first number of pages and the last section in the book. It helps with knowledge on towing, things you need, what different technology is and does, etc.
I've gone to various locations around our city to help customers who call in saying they can't get in or start their cars like the fob is dead. Usually it is interference as once I remind them how to get in and start the vehicle with a non-recognized or dead fob and get them to move the vehicle 100 feet away, it works just fine. We even have an employee who can't use her Cruze fob in front of her apartment due to the guy below her having a bunch of various radio and scanning equipment. Again her fob works anywhere else. If it works up close to the vehicle, it is likely a battery or signal strength. These new fobs with the keyless open on the doors are constantly sending out a signal (versus old style that only sent a signal when you pushed a button) so the vehicle recognizes when you approach the vehicle, and this kills batteries faster. It is not uncommon to see customers come in with battery issues in under 1 yr.
Interesting; never seen road tar turn orange; our's remains the sticky pain in the butt black it starts out as. I wonder if your area adds slag to the black top pavement they use? Slag can sometimes have very small metal remnants in it. Do you have a steel plant in the area?
If the spots turn orange, it is usually rail dust (fall out) from railcar transport. Tiny pieces of metal fly off the steel of the wheels and rails and wind deposits it on the vehicle (yes, even inside the car carriers). Dealers have a "Fall Out" remover or you could just clay your truck to remove it all.
The reason for the $7K hit on the value of the truck is because the truck has been registered and is now considered used. So the dealership can't take it back, fix the issue and sell it as a new vehicle, which means they can't use any of the GM rebates or low finance rates. It would have to be sold as a 'used' vehicle at used vehicle finance rates. So the sale price of the truck would have to be low enough so the payments on it (at used vehicle rates) would be lower than a new one, otherwise no one would ever buy it. That doesn't make it right though. If this is a true 'buying it back" by GM themselves, there shouldn't be any loss for you in that short of time and low miles. If it is a dealer having to take it back and reverse the deal, then the above reason I mentioned would likely apply. I would make sure it is GM themselves buying it back and get 100% back.
Not sure about where you live, but where I live, all items inside a truck bed need to be tied down/secured at all times. If an object flies out of your truck and hits another vehicle, you are liable. You can try to sue the manufacturer, but it has been tried in the past and failed (I believe someone in the US had a BBQ bounce out of their box and it wiped out a car which injured the car driver and passenger, so they sued the truck owner who tried to sue the manufacturer for faulty design). I tie everything down in the back of my truck if it won't fit with by Bakflip closed, or at least throw one of those stretchy nets over the items if the items are bulky.
Too many of these forums become a pissing contest with nothing but banter; whereas OP's usually post for a reason; to get help or answers, not half-baked comments since they don't help. I get that it was a joke and you likely meant nothing by it but fun ribbing. But I am in the GM business of automobiles and just find it annoying when people make mass assumptions or make personal preference/belief comments/jokes on a forum where someone is asking for clarification or assistance. Example: tell a 29 year old X-hockey player with two children and a wife, with nerve damage in his legs that he doesn't need steps to get into his truck because it's an old person's option. Sorry if I came off as grumpy; but after all, I am old"er".
Maybe I am old, maybe I am not. You don't know, quit being a smart ass. But 'loaded' means every available option and the top priced options like I listed (full length wheel to wheel boards versus shorter boards, etc). But so many people consider anything with leather to be 'loaded', and it's nowhere close.
Lane guidance is not available in RST trim. The lane keep assist is an LTZ/HC only feature with the safety II package. RST's can get a safety package which for it includes front and rear park assist, rear cross traffic alert and blind spot monitoring. Personally, the front and rear park assist is really handy, especially if parking in a tight garage. Rear cross traffic alert is also nice when backing out of spots when you can't see who is coming. Again, people idea's of fully loaded varies. If the RST doesn't have buckets seat convenience package or the convenience II package (power rear slider, garage opener, 120 volt outlets in cab and box, infotainment 3 with full voice commands and HD radio screen and camera, extra USB ports, rear in-seatback storage with Bose audio, etc), doesn't have the full length wheel to wheel boards, box liner, rear wheel house liners, etc, then it's not loaded.
From the trailer tag, it looks to be running a 20% pin weight (gross dry and hitch dry weights). So if you ever load it near the GVWR max loaded rating of 6754 lbs, it will have a 1350lb pin which only leaves 200-300 lbs of payload left, which isn't enough for you, family, things in the truck, weight of 5th wheel hitch, etc. It isn't hard to add 1000 lbs to an empty trailer if you carry extra propane tanks, coolers, ice, full freezer/fridge, all pots/pans, bedding, and daily supplies. Even at this (5350 lbs loaded area), you'd have a pin weight of 1070 lbs, which again only leaves 500-600 lbs for everything and everyone else. Less the weight of the 5th wheel in the back of the box, and you'd be very close with just 2 people. The 5th wheel being half-ton towable sales pitch is just that. Trailer sales people love to say that, because they also quote dry weights so they can sell you a bigger camper for more $$ and let you worry about legalities. There is the odd small ultra-light 5th wheels that are only 20 ft long total and are now in the 3000 lbs range which would be ok with a half ton, but those are bare bones units.
No. GM cheaped out on the custom seats as there is zero storage in them. The armrest doesn’t open up and there is no under seat storage beneath the bottom center seat. But even in the LT you have to get an interior package to get the under seat storage but at least the armrest opens up. I would definitely go LT with that package. The shape, foam etc is the same. Plus, if you are going to buy a 4x4, all GMs have the electronic 4x4.
Have you checked out Fia seat covers. They appear to have a Protector series with a rear seat split seat with center armrest that fits the new body 2019s. You could always email them to make sure the pic is accurate and they have the center armrest. https://gofia.com/product-category/seat-covers/custom_fit_truck/seat_protector_custom_fit_truck/ I have Fia Protector series in my 2013 and they fit nice and tight and seem to wear decently.
Remove the app from your phone, and then re-down load it from the app store. That often takes care of connection issues. Second, make sure all the cables you are using are data capable cables, just not charge cables. Charge cables only allow a charge to go to the phone and do not carry data back from the phone to the radio system. The original cord that was working may have crapped out and the other two may not be data capable. Just something to check. (Try using the original Samsung cable that came with the phone, those are always data cables). As mentioned, make sure to let your radio finish booting up before plugging the phone into it.
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