There's all kinds of constraints on right now as suppliers are having a lot of problems (boards, tonneau covers, certain options inside the truck, etc). Packages requiring the HD radio are limited, so that includes options like advanced trailering app, Bose system, etc. Computer chips/capacitors are short supply for all manufacturer's right now. Plus, GM just announced the Mexico Siloa plant is down due to Mexico having a shortage of natural gas, with no return to work date yet. That will slow production even more.
If you want the truck to lock by itself a few seconds after you get out so you don't have to hit the door button, there is a setting in the "vehicle" app in the radio settings. I believe it is under lock/unlock settings. It's called passive locking and you can set it up so it does it silently or does a horn chirp so you know it is locked. If setting up passive locking doesn't work, then it may be a glitch.
It depends on how you use your truck. Yes, it is nice to be able to remote start it from anywhere with cel services since factory remote starters don't work inside buildings like hockey arenas, stadiums, etc. It's nice to see your trucks oil life, tire pressure, etc, get navigation routes sent to your truck before you even get into the truck, etc. But if you tow, and your truck has the advanced trailering app, the remote access brings a couple nice touches. First, you can start the trailer light test from the app when you are standing behind the trailer. Second, if you are staying overnight somewhere, and someone goes to steal the trailer, as soon as the wiring plug is disconnected from your truck, you can set up the app so it texts your phone immediately to warn you someone is trying to steal your trailer. If you don't have the remote access plan, then the truck will set off the horns and lights, but you have to be within hearing range and realize it's your truck. If you had the remote access on a previous truck, you can sometimes complain to the onstar rep, say you'd take it for $5/mth, and they will sometimes come back with a reduced offer. Here in Canada, I know people paying around the $7-8/mth for it if they had the remote access for 5 yrs free on their previous vehicle. Also, if you pay for the entire year or two (whatever your contract is for), they give you some months free. Example, if you buy a 12 month plan and pay for it all at once instead of monthly, you pay for 10 mths and get 12 (so 2 mths for free).
Our shop is telling us it has to do with battery voltage. Something about starting the truck with the phone app or the remote start on the keyfob. Apparently it is drawing too much power and if your battery is low (perhaps from repeated starting with short trips and little recharge time), when you push the button to fire up the accessories/truck when you get in, the lower voltage is tripping something in the computer when it does its system check. We were told they have a fix now for 20's and our shop is now reprogramming them. GM hopes to have an updated programming for 19's within a week or two.
I didn't mean anything with my post other than owners should be educated before tow. I was guessing you hadn't done much towing since you weren't even aware weight distribution hitches existed, which is towing 101 for anyone towing a camper or trailer over 5000 lbs. Get a weight distribution hitch and you'll level that truck off a lot better. Happy towing.
No offence to the OP, but this is why anyone who wants to tow a trailer heavy enough to requiring trailer brakes should be required to take a course and have an endorsement on their license. Anyone towing a camper should at the bare minimum know there is such a thing as an weight distribution hitch (their safety and everyone else's on the road), along with how to properly set trailer brake gain on their controllers, learn how to effectively back a trailer, turn with a trailer, etc. I can't count the number of times I've seen a truck towing a camper and they don't even know what it does or how to set it, or they can't back it up more than 5 feet without losing it, cut corners too short and take the curbs with the trailer, etc. Sorry for the rant. To the OP, please go to trailerlife.com and download their latest (2019) tow guide (will show trailer ratings for all vehicles of every make and model) and read the first number of pages and the last section in the book. It helps with knowledge on towing, things you need, what different technology is and does, etc.
I've gone to various locations around our city to help customers who call in saying they can't get in or start their cars like the fob is dead. Usually it is interference as once I remind them how to get in and start the vehicle with a non-recognized or dead fob and get them to move the vehicle 100 feet away, it works just fine. We even have an employee who can't use her Cruze fob in front of her apartment due to the guy below her having a bunch of various radio and scanning equipment. Again her fob works anywhere else. If it works up close to the vehicle, it is likely a battery or signal strength. These new fobs with the keyless open on the doors are constantly sending out a signal (versus old style that only sent a signal when you pushed a button) so the vehicle recognizes when you approach the vehicle, and this kills batteries faster. It is not uncommon to see customers come in with battery issues in under 1 yr.
Interesting; never seen road tar turn orange; our's remains the sticky pain in the butt black it starts out as. I wonder if your area adds slag to the black top pavement they use? Slag can sometimes have very small metal remnants in it. Do you have a steel plant in the area?
If the spots turn orange, it is usually rail dust (fall out) from railcar transport. Tiny pieces of metal fly off the steel of the wheels and rails and wind deposits it on the vehicle (yes, even inside the car carriers). Dealers have a "Fall Out" remover or you could just clay your truck to remove it all.
The reason for the $7K hit on the value of the truck is because the truck has been registered and is now considered used. So the dealership can't take it back, fix the issue and sell it as a new vehicle, which means they can't use any of the GM rebates or low finance rates. It would have to be sold as a 'used' vehicle at used vehicle finance rates. So the sale price of the truck would have to be low enough so the payments on it (at used vehicle rates) would be lower than a new one, otherwise no one would ever buy it. That doesn't make it right though. If this is a true 'buying it back" by GM themselves, there shouldn't be any loss for you in that short of time and low miles. If it is a dealer having to take it back and reverse the deal, then the above reason I mentioned would likely apply. I would make sure it is GM themselves buying it back and get 100% back.
Not sure about where you live, but where I live, all items inside a truck bed need to be tied down/secured at all times. If an object flies out of your truck and hits another vehicle, you are liable. You can try to sue the manufacturer, but it has been tried in the past and failed (I believe someone in the US had a BBQ bounce out of their box and it wiped out a car which injured the car driver and passenger, so they sued the truck owner who tried to sue the manufacturer for faulty design). I tie everything down in the back of my truck if it won't fit with by Bakflip closed, or at least throw one of those stretchy nets over the items if the items are bulky.
Too many of these forums become a pissing contest with nothing but banter; whereas OP's usually post for a reason; to get help or answers, not half-baked comments since they don't help. I get that it was a joke and you likely meant nothing by it but fun ribbing. But I am in the GM business of automobiles and just find it annoying when people make mass assumptions or make personal preference/belief comments/jokes on a forum where someone is asking for clarification or assistance. Example: tell a 29 year old X-hockey player with two children and a wife, with nerve damage in his legs that he doesn't need steps to get into his truck because it's an old person's option. Sorry if I came off as grumpy; but after all, I am old"er". ?
Maybe I am old, maybe I am not. You don't know, quit being a smart ass. But 'loaded' means every available option and the top priced options like I listed (full length wheel to wheel boards versus shorter boards, etc). But so many people consider anything with leather to be 'loaded', and it's nowhere close.
Lane guidance is not available in RST trim. The lane keep assist is an LTZ/HC only feature with the safety II package. RST's can get a safety package which for it includes front and rear park assist, rear cross traffic alert and blind spot monitoring. Personally, the front and rear park assist is really handy, especially if parking in a tight garage. Rear cross traffic alert is also nice when backing out of spots when you can't see who is coming. Again, people idea's of fully loaded varies. If the RST doesn't have buckets seat convenience package or the convenience II package (power rear slider, garage opener, 120 volt outlets in cab and box, infotainment 3 with full voice commands and HD radio screen and camera, extra USB ports, rear in-seatback storage with Bose audio, etc), doesn't have the full length wheel to wheel boards, box liner, rear wheel house liners, etc, then it's not loaded.
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