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intheburbs

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About intheburbs

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  1. I say run what you brung. You have the heavy duty cooling package (KNP) and 3.73 gears (GT4). Sure the transmission has a lot of miles on it - any mods to improve engine output will just accelerate failure. If the transmission blows up, it blows up. No point in throwing money into it now. With the trailer, you're at about 5000 lbs. Assuming you'll go flatbed, not enclosed, the truck should tow that pretty well. See how it does, how the temps run, and then assess and plan your mods.
  2. I hate to be Captain Obvious, but do you have fresh batteries in the fobs?
  3. Well, as a guy who makes a living selling seals, o-rings and gaskets, I can tell you the requirements for seals have gotten more challenging over the years. The OEMs are not just slapping in junk. And my '08 Suburban has 192,000 miles on the original axle seals.
  4. Agree. I've logged over 20,000 miles on this truck towing heavy, including multiple trips over the Rockies and the Eisenhower tunnel. Truck is frighteningly all original with 190k on the clock. And I'll be dragging the behemoth trailer back out to Wyoming in June.
  5. If I run mine (the 2500 Suburban) long enough to get up to "operating temperature," it usually ends up being about 100° over the outside temps. So in the winter, it's running around 120°-130°. In the summer, it's running 190°-200°. Towing is another matter, I've had it as high as 241° pulling up long grades in the Rockies with an 8600-lb trailer. All that being said, GM designed these things for an operating temperature of 190°-200°. That's what they consider "normal operating parameters." So as the poster above said, be happy yours is running cooler. No real downside, other than you might not be cooking off any condensation/moisture in the system.
  6. As an owner of two GMT900 trucks, one with 4WD and one with AWD, I've made the same comparisons and have come to the same conclusions. Yes, the 4WD Suburban is better in bad weather. I think there are two main factors on this: 1) Tires 2) The center differential on the AWD system 1) The Denalis come with street tires, not mud/snow/all-terrain tires. They're large diameter, low profile, and there aren't a lot of snow/mud tire options for that size. Plus, even if you did find one, they'd probably look ridiculous. Can you picture Goodyear Duratracs on a Denali pickup with 20" wheels? The tires on the Denali are also wider, 275 vs 245, at least on my Suburban, and narrow is always better in low-traction situations. Narrower means less hydroplaning and a higher load on the contact patch of the tire. My Denali is wearing Michelin LTX MS/2s from Costco, and they seem to be an improvement. But my Suburban has Goodyear Duratracs, and it's basically unstoppable in snow. I've driven on unplowed roads and parking lots as deep as 16" with no issues. But again, it's 1000 lbs heavier, riding on narrower tires. 2) As said on a previous post, the AWD system introduces a third differential into the powertrain. This means, theoretically, that if you have one tire slipping, it can be the only one moving and you could be stuck. Now, the G80 rear will help, but the only way you have of "simulating" a locking of the center or front differential is the Traction Control/Stabilitrak/ABS system applying the brakes to the spinning wheel(s). And my experience is that the system is slow/unwilling to fully clamp onto a spinning wheel. Bottom line - if my Denali was my only vehicle, and I needed to get around in the winter, I'd probably sell it and get something else with no center diff. But as you can see in my sig, for me, I have plenty of other good options for bad weather. I consider the Denali my "hot rod," and it usually sits in really bad weather. PS - Everyone does know that pressing and holding the Stabilitrak button for five seconds pretty much disables the entire system, right? From my Denali owners manual, page 4-7:
  7. If the check engine light is on, no remote start. If you clear the light, it should start. However, if the problem is detected when the truck powers up, prior to starting, then you'll get the same light flash and no start. It also won't start if the fuel light is on.
  8. Here's a good video describing how it works... And don't do childish/stupid stuff like this...
  9. Pay particular attention to the transmission, and how it shifts and if there's any slippage. The 4L60 is pretty close to its max horsepower and torque when mated to the 5.3. Adding a supercharger only makes it worse.
  10. Some kind of full floater. My 2500 Suburban has the 10.5" free floater. American Axle rates it to 8600 lbs. In my application, the tires are the limiting factor, so GM rates it to "only" 5500 lbs. If your truck was stock, you'd probably be ok. But the lift and larger tires will substantially increase mechanical stresses when towing. Bearings see more load, brakes have to work harder and get hotter faster, larger tires lower your effective axle ratio, transmission sees higher torque loads, etc. Also, keep in mind that a large drop trailer hitch, like an 8" or 10" drop, reduces the weight carrying capacity of your receiver, because you're applying more torque to it. A lifted half-ton is just not the greatest choice to pull heavy trailers.
  11. Bottom line is you have a weak semifloater rear axle, with additional stresses put on it because of the lift and larger tires. No mods you make, short of replacing it with something stouter, change the fact that you have a 3950 RAWR and a 1500 lb-ish payload. Towing a 7,000-lb trailer with a lifted half-ton truck with oversized tires will cause stuff to break. I had a half-ton Suburban, factory suspension, no lift, and I broke the rear axle twice towing trailers around 7,000 lbs.
  12. The transmission pump is on the input shaft of the transmission. For the mile you towed it, the transmission was rotating without any fluid being circulated. I'd be concerned that damage was done to the tranny. Make sure it gets checked out thoroughly.
  13. Yes, plug 'n play. I wanted it because I was planning to do a lot of towing, and wanted to know my trans temp.
  14. If it was me, this is how I'd troubleshoot....I had to replace the cluster in my 2001 Suburban. 1) Disconnect the battery, leave it for 10 minutes, reconnect. Then start it up. Kind of like re-booting a computer. 2) Dig into the dash - remove the big trim piece, remove the 4 7mm bolts holding in the cluster, unplug and replug the cluster - maybe the connections are oxidized, and a little friction will fix it. 3) Either have the cluster repaired, or buy one off eBay. I'm sure there aren't quite as many for sale when I did mine 13 years ago, they should still be out there. I bought an HD cluster, which gave me a functioning trans temp gauge instead of the idiot light in the lower left corner.
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