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intheburbs

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About intheburbs

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

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Profile Information

  • Name
    Bill
  • Location
    SE MI
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    '08 Suburban 2500/ '09 Sierra Denali

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  1. Remote start question

    No, the radio is not active on a remote start. With regards to the climate control - based on the outside temperature, the computer should activate the heat/defrost or A/C. This is the case on both of my GMT900 trucks, but they both also have auto climate control. Not sure if it's different if you have the manual climate control. If it's cold, the heated mirrors/rear defroster are active and the heater is active. If it's hot, the A/C is active. In both cases, the computer overrides whatever the climate control was set at when the truck was turned off.
  2. Rear diff

    From your owner's manual: Rear Axle SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Axle Lubricant (GM Part No. 12378261) or equivalent meeting GM Specification 9986115.
  3. Canadian and US trucks have the same cluster. Your speedo has not been altered, nor has your cluster been swapped. The truck was simply reprogrammed by someone from metric to English. My Denali was a Canadian truck. I have the French owners manual, and my door weight sticker has a maple leaf on it. The red wasn't an available color on Denalis in the US in 2009, so that was the tipoff for me. The truck was clearly reprogrammed, because when I bought it (with 60k miles), the hours meter showed something like 35 hours, and everything is in Us units. I guess that means they could have reprogrammed the mileage, too, but that gets into criminal fraud territory. Here's my door sticker:
  4. Electrical Help

    It's a known issue that those switches are susceptible to water ingress/corrosion. I was approached by Bosch back around 2008-2009 to design a seal around the switch module because they were starting to see problems in the field with existing trucks. They never went with my design, not sure if GM even did anything about it. Probably the easiest to replace the driver's door switch and see what that does. It's not cheap, but for me it would be worth it to possibly avoid annoying wire traces. Another option would be to try to disassemble and clean/polish the contacts, to see if that makes a difference.
  5. 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 problem

    Fuel pumps usually last 100-125k, less if you frequently let the tank run down close to empty. My guess is the fuel pump.
  6. 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 problem

    How many miles? Original fuel pump?
  7. Coming up on 90,000 mile Service?

    Might as well wait for 100k, if it was me I'd change all fluids - oil, trans, t-case, axles, power steering - and then I'd do plugs and wires and the serpentine belt. I'd expect $600 or so for everything. I just had my Denali in the dealer for a trans flush, it also has 100k on it. While I normally don't like paying the dealer extortion prices, just for the convenience I had them do the axles and transfer case, too. They charged me $550. I'll do the plugs and serpentine myself. I don't mess with the A/C belt. It's a PITA so I just let it run until it breaks.
  8. Which GMT-800 to buy

    How often/far will you be towing? For frequent towing and longer hauls, IMHO a 2500 will be the way to go. Yes, the mileage isn't as good, but they're completely bulletproof trucks. Buy once, cry once. Yes, a half-ton should be able to tow your trailer. I towed as heavy as 7,000 lbs with my half-ton '01, including into the Rockies. The rear axle is the weak link on these trucks. The 5.3 motor from those years is awesome. 2003 was the mid-cycle refresh for the platform - new gauges/steering wheel/electronics, etc. If I was in the market, I'd be looking 2004-2006. If you really want crappy mileage, go find an 8.1 2500. :-)
  9. I would say the trucks with an 8.1 are certainly going to hold their value and be revered as they age.
  10. I own two GMT900 trucks. Neither has the 5.3 nor AFM. That was on purpose. GM can take its AFM engines and stick it where the sun doesn't shine. I'll never own one. I'll buy other brands before I buy an AFM truck. And I don't subscribe to the "improvement" for 2011. It's still an inherently flawed design.
  11. If nothing else, you're find a much broader selection if you go to 245/75/16 tires. My '01 half-ton Suburban came with 265/70/16, but once I started towing with it I switched to 245/75/16. Very slightly smaller diameter tire, but tons more choices in brand, especially for E-load LT tires. My '08 3/4-ton Burb came with 245/75/16 as the OEM tire.
  12. 07-13 Front Turn Signal Bulb Replace

    This is the "recommended" way.
  13. Flashing CEL

    Flashing CEL is a misfire. It's possible something got too wet and was causing it, and once stuff dried out it went away. I'd just keep an eye on it in case it returns. Otherwise, just write it off as a learning experience not to douse things so much.
  14. Tires and Comfort of Ride

    Sorry, man, going to poop on your thread some more. So, you bought a new set of tires, and didn't shake them down as soon as you picked up the truck? First thing I do with a new set of tires is take them onto all types of roads - smooth, dirt, rutted, and all types of driving - stop and go, highway speeds, etc. I do WOT 0-60 runs, and if the weather and traffic allow, I have a nice little stretch of highway where I'll take it up to significantly extralegal speeds to make sure there are no funny bumps, noises, shimmies or vibrations. And then when you don't like what's going on, instead of going back to the shop, you park the truck for over a year? Oh, and both of my trucks are in my avatar. So you're showing selective reading comprehension as well.
  15. Tires and Comfort of Ride

    I read just fine....and since you clearly can't read the first line of my sig, I have a Sierra Denali 1500 with LTX tires and they ride great. Here are some of your own words from this thread...lots of "forgot," "confused," and just wrong information. You forgot when you got them and you weren't even sure the pressure in them until you went out and bought a tire gauge.
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