If the check engine light is on, no remote start. If you clear the light, it should start. However, if the problem is detected when the truck powers up, prior to starting, then you'll get the same light flash and no start. It also won't start if the fuel light is on.
Pay particular attention to the transmission, and how it shifts and if there's any slippage. The 4L60 is pretty close to its max horsepower and torque when mated to the 5.3. Adding a supercharger only makes it worse.
Some kind of full floater. My 2500 Suburban has the 10.5" free floater. American Axle rates it to 8600 lbs. In my application, the tires are the limiting factor, so GM rates it to "only" 5500 lbs. If your truck was stock, you'd probably be ok. But the lift and larger tires will substantially increase mechanical stresses when towing. Bearings see more load, brakes have to work harder and get hotter faster, larger tires lower your effective axle ratio, transmission sees higher torque loads, etc. Also, keep in mind that a large drop trailer hitch, like an 8" or 10" drop, reduces the weight carrying capacity of your receiver, because you're applying more torque to it. A lifted half-ton is just not the greatest choice to pull heavy trailers.
Bottom line is you have a weak semifloater rear axle, with additional stresses put on it because of the lift and larger tires. No mods you make, short of replacing it with something stouter, change the fact that you have a 3950 RAWR and a 1500 lb-ish payload. Towing a 7,000-lb trailer with a lifted half-ton truck with oversized tires will cause stuff to break. I had a half-ton Suburban, factory suspension, no lift, and I broke the rear axle twice towing trailers around 7,000 lbs.
intheburbs replied to Alloy25's topic in 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500The transmission pump is on the input shaft of the transmission. For the mile you towed it, the transmission was rotating without any fluid being circulated. I'd be concerned that damage was done to the tranny. Make sure it gets checked out thoroughly.
If it was me, this is how I'd troubleshoot....I had to replace the cluster in my 2001 Suburban. 1) Disconnect the battery, leave it for 10 minutes, reconnect. Then start it up. Kind of like re-booting a computer. 2) Dig into the dash - remove the big trim piece, remove the 4 7mm bolts holding in the cluster, unplug and replug the cluster - maybe the connections are oxidized, and a little friction will fix it. 3) Either have the cluster repaired, or buy one off eBay. I'm sure there aren't quite as many for sale when I did mine 13 years ago, they should still be out there. I bought an HD cluster, which gave me a functioning trans temp gauge instead of the idiot light in the lower left corner.
No, the radio is not active on a remote start. With regards to the climate control - based on the outside temperature, the computer should activate the heat/defrost or A/C. This is the case on both of my GMT900 trucks, but they both also have auto climate control. Not sure if it's different if you have the manual climate control. If it's cold, the heated mirrors/rear defroster are active and the heater is active. If it's hot, the A/C is active. In both cases, the computer overrides whatever the climate control was set at when the truck was turned off.
Canadian and US trucks have the same cluster. Your speedo has not been altered, nor has your cluster been swapped. The truck was simply reprogrammed by someone from metric to English. My Denali was a Canadian truck. I have the French owners manual, and my door weight sticker has a maple leaf on it. The red wasn't an available color on Denalis in the US in 2009, so that was the tipoff for me. The truck was clearly reprogrammed, because when I bought it (with 60k miles), the hours meter showed something like 35 hours, and everything is in Us units. I guess that means they could have reprogrammed the mileage, too, but that gets into criminal fraud territory. Here's my door sticker:
It's a known issue that those switches are susceptible to water ingress/corrosion. I was approached by Bosch back around 2008-2009 to design a seal around the switch module because they were starting to see problems in the field with existing trucks. They never went with my design, not sure if GM even did anything about it. Probably the easiest to replace the driver's door switch and see what that does. It's not cheap, but for me it would be worth it to possibly avoid annoying wire traces. Another option would be to try to disassemble and clean/polish the contacts, to see if that makes a difference.
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