truck_newbie

Subwoofer installs on the driver side rear. Wire routing goes on the passenger side. You can see in the pictures above.

@Matty Patty finally got around to taking the picture. Looks like i have the same part # as yours. The only difference is the last line which i'm thinking is maybe the serial #.

Alright, tips installed. Looks awesome. Pics don't do it justice. I highly recommend this to everyone. Technically you don't have to remove the side steps to replace the tips. The space is tight but it's possible with a ratcheting wrench and a lot of elbow grease. This is how i installed it with the help of a friend.

Will take a picture of mine and compare.

Powder coat done. Ready for install ?. Came out better than i expected.

Finally got my truck back. Now I’ve had some bad service experiences but this has got to take the cake. Long story short, I get a call from the service advisor. She tells me the noise I’m experiencing is due to all the aftermarket stuff I have on my truck. I’m confused. I tell her I only have an aftermarket exhaust on it. She replies with well, your truck also has an aftermarket lift on it. I’m like whatttt!, the AT4 comes with a factory 2” lift. She comes back with oh ok, well in that case, the noise is coming from the exhaust and that I should take it back to wherever I had it put on so they can fix it. This is so funny; I installed the exhaust to drown out the ringing and squeaking and this is what I get. Basically, they didn’t want to work on my truck because they were busy and were using any excuse in the book. She tells me they need my truck for an extra day and I’m like f**k no. If your techs don’t know that the AT4 comes with a factory 2” lift, then I don’t even want them messing with my truck. If you are in Houston, do yourself a favor and stay away from the service department of the GMC dealership on 59 and 8. There are some really incompetent folks there. @Sin City Trail Boss and @Kozzy, wish I had better news. I did the 4wd test and I still hear the ringing and squeaking. I’m fairly confident the issue I’m having is not related to the jingling. For what It’s worth, I do have the SU4 axle but my truck was manufactured 6/19 in Mexico so maybe my SU4 has a different part #. I’ll try to get under the truck and take a picture of the part # for you guys to compare.

That should be it. Did you do the fade test? If this is indeed the right front speaker, fading completely to the left will cut-out sound to the subwoofer.

You should prepare yourself for "operating as intended". I was experiencing the same issue in my AT4 with Bose. The Bose system puts all the bass in the front doors and this can cause resonance to occur with some songs. This was primarily the main reason i installed the Kicker subwoofer accessory to remove the bass from the front doors and put it under the backseat. You should still take it to the dealer though, just in-case they can fix it.

It should be there if you have the Bose system. Do you see any twisted pair of wires at all?

Will do.

Thanks. I'll bring that up to my service advisor.

That's good to know. Do u have the number for that TSB?

I saw ur video but not sure if mine sounds like that. I stumbled onto this post a bit late so didn't realize there was a 4x4 test for this issue. I'll perform that test when I get my truck back from the dealer, provided the issue still persists.

I have a AT4. Mine rings without sounding like a bell. It's almost like a heat shield that's rattling really fast. It also happens 45mph and greater. I can get it to repeatedly happen when I press the pedal lightly while cruising.

I don't know whether to be happy or sad. When I get my truck back, provided my issue is still not fixed, I'll perform the 4wd test to see if it goes away. Could it be that the 2" lift changes the sound profile of the jingle?

Thanks Kozzy, that helps. I can now see why everyone is calling it a jingle. I can definitely hear the bell sound in your sound clip. The ringing noise i'm experiencing definitely doesn't sound like this, no "bell" component. Mine sounds almost like a loose heat-shield rattling really fast.

Ok, thanks. My truck is currently being looked at. I don't expect anything different from what others have reported.They claim they can't really hear the ringing. One thing i would like to know though, volume wise, is the jingle/ringing less pronounce on the TrailBoss and the AT4 because of the 2" lift?

Do AT4 owners also count?

Hi all. I stumbled unto this thread a bit late. I have a 6.2 AT4 (build date 6/19, waiting on rpo codes) and have been having a similar issue since 1k miles. I have read all 40 pages but not sure if my issue is related to what everyone else is experiencing so maybe this is where you guys can help me out. My truck is at 1800 miles now. These are my symptoms: 1. Light throttle after cold-start when in drive, I hear a squeak/chirp. 2. Light throttle while cruising (>35mph) after warm-up, i hear a metal ringing noise. It's not super loud but it's there. I can still hear it over my Gibson exhaust. All sounds seem to be coming from underneath the truck. My truck is currently in the shop so was unable to perform the 4wd test. Is this the jingle-jingle issue? ... Just got my build sheet. I have the SU4 axle. Sigh.

See my post and pictures above. Didn't cut anything. You can lay the wires on top, route them behind the seat anchors, zip tie them nicely and it's not messy. You will not be able to remove the floor mat easily if you don't cut it but i'm ok with that.

I suspect it might be from the flappers closing and opening due to the exhaust gas pressure being low. I noticed something similar in mine with the factory exhaust. I'm not experiencing it anymore with the cat-back exhaust.

As promised, pictures of my install and some notes. 1. I couldn't remove the right kick panel on my truck. Seems stuck so I had to use another ground point. There is a ground point (long bolt) behind the big blue plug in the fuse box. Also had to tap-off in the passenger sill because of this as shown in the pictures. 2. The install guide said to tap-off a twisted yellow and yellow/black pair in the wire bundle. I couldn't find this pair in my truck. The closest i found was a twisted yellow/gray and yellow/black. I'm a engineer by trade and these 2 sets of wires are not the same. Nevertheless, i contacted kicker support and they suggested i test the yellow/gray and yellow/black pair for dc and ac voltages. This worked. Not sure why the coloring in my truck is different. I have confirmed this is indeed the right front speaker by fading completely to the left and the bass goes away. 3. The knob wire is long enough to route through the cable channel. This is what i did. Zip-tied everything together. Stuck the knob under the trailer brake with 3m vhb and it fits perfectly. The knob wire routed cleanly. 4. Didn't have to cut any carpet or floor mats as mentioned in the install guide.

I'm with you on this one. I have no doubt the JL will rattle your teeth loose but for me, it's all about balance. And as you said, it's also much cheaper.

I'm pretty sure it's from the right, not the left. Try playing around with the fade to see if the sub volume changes. I don't know how well tapping the Bose sub wires will work because i believe the Kicker's amp filtering has been tuned to tap off the full range-speaker. Truck wiring diagram below.

Well, i'm sorry to hear about that. You could probably get more for it on Ebay. I would have purchased it from you if i didn't already have one.