truck_newbie

Ok. So today after lunch, a few co-workers wanted me to demo the multi-pro tailgate to them. I figured why not, as it's not the first time I have been asked to do this and it certainly won't be the last. Anyways, we get to my truck i press the top button and the inner gate opens; cool. I close the inner gate and proceed to press the down button. Nothing happens, no click sound. Hmm... I try a few times and nothing. So i try the inner gate again and it opens fine. I couldn't get the lower gate opened for the life of me no matter how many times i tried pressing the button. There was no clicking sound, nothing. Out of embarrassment, i tell them oh well, it's a first generation system, they haven't ironed out all the kinks. Today after work, i try it again just by myself and of course it opened without issue. This got me thinking. What if i actually had to put something in the bed or take something out of the bed and the lower gate wouldn't open. That would be a real wtf moment for me. Anyone run into this? Is there a mechanical open for when the electric open is not working or any general workaround?

I got mine from ShopChevyParts last year. They have it on sale for $559 and they offer 5% off coupon for new customers which should help offset the shipping cost.

The head unit has bass control in the equalizer settings but it mostly affects the truck's speakers.

Then the kicker subwoofer bass level is not adjustable so it will either be too strong or too weak. Do yourself a favor and get the knob.

You can configure it however you like. Use the radio equalizer bass control to add or remove bass from the doors and the kicker subwoofer control knob to add/remove bass from the kicker.

Nice truck. There is no need to acid wash the upper grille. There is a 3rd party black one available. I've been looking to do the same with my AT4 but the black AT4 grilles they have currently don't support front camera. Looks like this black denali grille supports front camera. For the lower chrome grille, you can get the black one from the AT4. The chrome fog light bezel is where you might ran into an issue. You can sandblast and have them painted black or you could vinyl wrap them. Hope this helps. http://www.topgearautosport.com/part/A1289TG2259/GMC_Sierra_1500_2019-2020_Glossy_Black_New_Denali_Style_Grille.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyon0-4_r5gIVhcDACh3M0wlNEAQYASABEgJvcfD_BwE https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-2019-2020-GMC-Sierra-1500-SLE-SLT-Denali-GLOSSY-BLACK-Upper-Hood-Grille/184087549096?fits=Year%3A2019|Model%3ASierra+1500|Make%3AGMC&hash=item2adc7914a8:g:FqMAAOSwM2dd-oZe

Thanks for giving it a listen TLDLTD. I was beginning to think i was losing it, lol. ?

Crickets chirp frequency is a wide range of 2KHz to 8KHz from a quick google search. Doing some sound analysis on the recording, as far as i can tell, the ringing is around 9KHz. I'm curious if you were able to hear any ringing at all in the recording. Try listening above the road noise, if that makes sense. BTW, this is not meant to be a hearing competency test, lol. I'm just trying to figure out where this sound is coming from.

A co-worker of mine who can hear it pointed out something to me that i hadn't thought of. He said the ringing is fairly high frequency and that some people can't hear that high. I obviously don't mean any disrespect by that. Will definitely need to keep that in mind when i play it for the techs. Thanks to everyone who gave it a shot.

That's 0 for 3. Maybe i am indeed going crazy. ?. Thanks for giving it a shot though.

I unfortunately did read that whole thread. I don't believe it's related to what i'm hearing. There was a guy (forgot his name) who provided a recording of the jingle and i confirmed it's not what i'm hearing on mine. The conditions that cause mine to happen is different too.

I should probably have mentioned it's more discernible on headphones. It's not louder than the road noise but it's there starting at the 2s mark. In the recording, it almost sounds like the noise crickets make. In the truck however, it sounds more like ringing. Hope this helps identify it.

Does anyone know what this ringing noise might be or has experienced it themselves? What you are listening to in the sound clip below is the truck cruising at 40mph and going over some bumps. I lightly press the accelerator pedal around the 2s mark and lift off around the 8s mark. Coincidentally, you can hear a metallic ringing at 2s mark that ends at 8s mark. It usually starts with a squeal and turns into a ringing. I can get it to happen repeatedly. It only happens while cruising and application of light throttle. Doesn’t happen with heavy throttle. I plan to show it to service on my next oil change. Appreciate any input. Ringing.mp3

Had this for a while, same as others. Seems to be only affecting the 6.2 with 10 speed. I'm almost certain at this point the chirping is coming from the 10-speed. Try this test, when you cold start it, put it in drive right away and press the accelerator pedal very lightly, the chirp will be a bit louder.

Calm down fellas, lol. I have no doubt you are both well versed in your areas of expertise. There is another solution to this, a mechanical/structural one. After all, this is a mechanical/structural problem. Some of the bass frequencies from the front speakers is hitting the resonance frequency of the plastics in the door. This is the reason why the really bad vibrations and rattles only occur with some songs. I'm guessing GM's electrical and mechanical engineers didn't talk to each other when they were designing this. Anyways, you should be able to dampen these frequencies with maybe different rubber grommets where the speaker mounts to the doors so very little of it gets carried to the doors. This solution should retain all the sound. This is how i intend to fix it on my end whenever i find the time. My 2 cents.

Aight, here you go. Install is easy. Clips can be a bit hard to get on. As i mentioned in the prior post, it installs over the factory mud-guards. The fronts use replacement longer screws (included). The rear re-uses the factory screws which seems odd but the fit seems tight. Definitely much bigger and taller than the factory as you can see in the pics.

I have the husky no drill. I have installed the fronts. Will install the rears this week (didn't have a low profile torx 15 wrench and i didn't want to remove the rear tires). It installs over the factory mudguards. I will post pictures when complete.

Your mileage will vary with muffler delete or just muffler swap. I recommend a full-catback system. At this point, there are quite a number of options for the T1. If the Borla, Corsa, Magnaflow, etc are too pricey for you, you can try the more affordable options. Personally, i recommend the Gibson. It's more of a tamer exhaust but it was only about $500 and i love it.

@Pturn, i can also attest to this. When the kicker is playing, it shakes the back window and i can hardly see through the rear-view mirror. Thankfully I have the rear view mirror camera so i don't need to worry about the back window vibration.

Thanks. Loving every minute of it.

I have the Gator EFX too and very happy with it.

How about these https://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Badges-Black-GMC-Sierra-AT4-6-2L-Emblem-Set/174072752308?hash=item28878b68b4:g:oIEAAOSwr1Zc7snl

Sorry, i don't mean to make light of your vibration issues. I went through something similar on my previous vehicle ('16 CTS). I put on new tires and wheels and ever since then, there was this small vibration that could not be resolved. I was also apparently the only one who could tell. I went through at least 10 road force balances across 3 different shops, same issue. Eventually, one guy from discount tire told me he thinks it's from the wheels and recommended i get myself a better set of wheels. He said low quality wheels might have small imperfections that might not be picked up by the balancer. Granted, the wheels i had initially (Verde Saga) were bargain wheels and didn't have the best manufacturing process. I bit the bullet and bought another set of wheels (O.Z Italia Racing). They were much more expensive but i definitely got what i paid for. The O.Z wheels came with calibration/performance results so right away, i knew i was unto something. After i got them mounted, I thought the vibration was still present but after about a week, i realized it was gone and was just residue feelings from the previous wheels. Every vehicle exhibits some amount of vibration since there are a lot of rotating parts. I can't tell if the water bottle shake in your video is abnormal. Have you tried the water bottle test on another vehicle which you would consider smooth?

Are you sure you aren't phantom sensing some of these vibrations, lol. Noticed you have reported a few vibration issues.

Couldn't have said it better myself. Looks are very subjective and if i have learned anything from car forums, you are just going to start a pissing contest with this. We should just be glad GM decided to make 2 different looking same trucks to cater to all and just leave it at that.