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Michael2020AT4

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About Michael2020AT4

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  1. My recommendation is the AT4. I second the other posts. It comes down to personal taste. I came from 2016 Yukon xl Denali and although a nice truck and I liked it I knew I wanted something more rugged and I wanted a truck. I didn’t even look at the Denalis this time. I didn’t want a lot of chrome. I had a friend that had 2017 sierra Denali that had the same thoughts. He wanted more rugged and went with the AT4. Good luck with your choice. Both are good trucks.
  2. Finally got around to de-badging the tailgate. Used hair dryer and fishing line. 1. Before 2. Badges removed with goo present 3. Used goo gone and elbow grease. I can still see a couple of places at an angle that I didn’t get off.
  3. No problem. Good luck. It works good for me and is nice to have with kids.
  4. I have the AT&T family plan with unlimited data. So I just added my truck to my plan as a connected car for $15 a month when they had a special. Now I think it’s $20/month. Works great and didn’t have to go through onstar.
  5. Ok thanks. I know it was raining but didn’t think they were that dirty. I wiped them off but still got the triangles. I found the button for the lines overlay.
  6. Looks good. I have a white AT4 as well and am wanting to do the same thing but I can't pull the trigger to do it. What did you use or how did you do it? Any tips or suggestions or things to watch out for? Thanks in advance.
  7. Has the backup camera image changed on anyone's truck? I am driving a 2020 AT4 and noticed within the last week when put in reverse, the yellow/red caution lines have changed to triangles with no distance warning. (screenshots below) My Infotainment System says v148 and was last updated December 2019. I liked the lines better than these triangles.
  8. Temps got up 60 degrees. Finally had a chance to wash. Used some new to me Chemical Guys products and foam cannon connected to my electric power washer. Apparently didn’t put enough soap bc didn’t get the thick foam I was hoping to see.
  9. I read your post but I am not having those issues. I have just a single front cam. I’m currently still having the static discharge after truck has shut off. My hard wire kit only has one power wire that I ran to the ACC fuse of the heated steering wheel. I am wondering if this is my problem of only having one positive/power wire instead of two power wires like other hard wire kits. My two thoughts that I am debating are: 1. Changing The current hard wire kit back to the constant power of the garage door button. 2. Getting a new hard wire kit that has three wires with the two power wires and running one to the accessory fuse and one to the constant power fuse. Right now the dash cam is recording while I am driving. It is not recording in parking mode or motion sensor mode. I am pretty sure from the directions that those two modes need the constant power fuse. A couple pics showing it on the passenger side next to my valentine V1 radar detector:
  10. Nice truck. Congrats. I like that color too. Sharp Enjoy it.
  11. Posted this on the other thread but was wanting to get some more opinions here. Will take some pictures soon when I get a chance. Hardwired the dash cam to passenger side garage door button fuse today. It took several tries but finally got the garage door button to work but had some static over the radio and the parking assist button would flash on and then off while sitting in the truck with it off. I don't like any of that of course but wanted to get some opinions.
  12. So I tried this today with a Rove 4k dash cam. I am not sure that it is correct. I definitely don't want to mess up my truck. Here is my experience and questions/concerns. So I have the dash cam positioned on the windshield. I ran the wire up by the bracket around the rearview mirror, tucked it at the top headliner over to the pillar, down behind the weather stripping and into the fuse box area. I disconnected the negative first. I finally got the kick panel off which was harder than I thought and found a place for the ground wire. I used the fuse that was mentioned by OP for the garage door opener which is always on. I didn't realize that the orientation of the fuse mattered. I tried a few combinations of the two fuses in the same spot but turned around. After each time, I reconnected the negative terminal and checked things. 1. the camera powered up but garage door button would not work. I turned the truck fuse around but left the add a fuse in the same orientation and tried everything again. 2. the camera powered up but garage door button would not work again. Finally after turning them 3-4 times, finally the camera powered up and the garage door button worked. But I noticed a couple things while sitting in the truck reading the dash cam manual. 1. I heard static briefly over the radio and the parking assist button briefly flashed on and then went off. After the first and second fuse switch, the parking assist button did this cycle several times. After the last time when I got the garage door button to work, the parking assist just flashes once and then done. 2. Normally when the truck is on and I turn it off then open the door the radio shuts off and if I close the door again there's a horn honk letting me know the key is still in the truck. This is hard to explain but it is no longer happening or working that way now. I am going to watch it for a day or two and see what happens but was wanting to get others opinion especially if you have already done this. Thanks for any tips or comments.
  13. I second Proclip. They’re pricey but very sturdy.
  14. This is the one that I got from Advanced Auto Parts for $10-15. It works pretty good for reception from what I've noticed so far. I actually use either CarPlay from my iPhone or use the trucks iHeart radio app. Since mine was hitting my garage door too, this is more for function and aesthetics.
  15. Here is my Proclip iPhone mount. They are a little expensive. I have had a couple but so far they have held up really good. Until we get wireless CarPlay, I will continue using this iPhone holder and mount from ProClip. It seems to be pretty sturdy. No problems with my knee or leg hitting it. It stays put and holds the phone securely. Just get in and slide the phone down and it "clicks" into the cable at the bottom. Where I have it placed currently, very minimal blockage of the buttons behind it. I don't use the trailer brake or the lane keep assist. It does very slightly block the first seat warmer button on the left. Of course this is only when the phone is mounted. I have not done any work yet to hide the wires. I have been lazy. Hope this helps someone else looking for a phone mount.
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