JAshworth03

Stay away from the adapters. They don't work and are a pain in the butt. I bought one that shipped from China that simply didn't work. When I tried to return they tried to get me to tap into the device and make changes and update it claiming it should work. The return process took 3 weeks. Beware.

Exact same boat!!!

I still can’t figured it out. Mine stay on and I use the remote to turn off.

I still can’t get them to come on and off with the door. I’ve tried everything. I have to manually switch them off as they come on every time when I open the door.

I think they are starting to standardize on the low voltage line. I took mine in for the second time and was told the same thing. The battery was low and that caused the computer to trip. They got everything checked and cleared and told me not to use the app, but can use keyfob to remote start. Picked up this afternoon. Then about 10 minutes ago, my service advisor called me and said they heard even more from GM and that GM is advising not to remote start the vehicle at all (either fob or app) and that GM is aware and is expecting a software recall within the next 2 weeks. Told me to be on the lookout in my app for the recall and schedule as soon as its out. I hope that's true. Can't say I'm pleased that I can't use remote start on my $67K truck in the middle of January though...

Count me in for class action.

Question for those of you who are on your second or more return to dealer to fix... I know in some cases, the dealer is just keeping your truck while they wait for a fix. Others are claiming they have it fixed and giving it back for the same issues to pop up. What is your plan for the long term? I ask because im taking mine in tomorrow for the 2nd time. I know that they are going to clear the CEL and say they did this that or the other to fix it, claim its good to go, and its not going to work. Do I just keep playing the back and forth game with the dealership and hope for the best?

Same exact thing happened to me with the same behavior. I was all good for about 10 days using the app etc. and then it went to CEL. I was waiting for them to have another Silverado in stock for me to use as a loaner so going to pick up tomorrow. I wasn’t about to take another Trax or Equinox.

Funny. I was told the exact same. One other person. I’m just trying to figure out if it’s widespread or not

I think I would be okay not using the app if they could pinpoint that as the problem, but only for a certain amount of time, and I would of course expect credit back for not being able to use the functionality I pay for. Bottom line - Chevy needs to get this fixed in a hurry. Saying don't use a feature of the $67K truck you bought because it could cause you to lose all braking control is 100% inexcusable. I'm starting to get curious. Are we in a minority here, or are there thousands others out there that just don't know about this forum and are having this issue?

Extended Cab Silverado - try a Chevy Trax on for size... that was my last loaner.

I emailed my service advisor last night and she emailed me this morning telling me to bring it in. Here is my question, I now know the trick to limp along with the CEL on. If that is working out and I have my brakes back, should I just wait out a software update or bring it in? Best case scenario I bring it in and they claim to fix it only for the issue to recreate in a week or so. it’s abundantly clear that Chevy has no idea how to fix the software and until they do everything else is a bandaid.

Mine was “fixed” 2 weeks ago. All has been perfect since then, complete with remote start via the app, and tonight it came back. restarted the truck 4 times and good except for CEL. anyone know if there is an issue with driving with the CEL on until a fix is there?

Hoping you might be able to help. I have the same Opt 7 kit as you. I have a spade powering it and connected to the open prong next to the 50. That works fine. I ran the aux wire from the Opt7 control box to the grey wire in the BCM and T tapped into it as I want the lights to power on and off with dome. I have everything connected and grounded properly, but can’t get the dome feature to power on and off with this kit. what am I missing? Do I need a different power source since this one is switched. Super frustrated.

Bump reminder! Curious on what you paid for install and how it looks!!

Finished blacking out my Chevy badges on my 22” HC rims

Thanks!!! i popped under there today and saw exactly where you are talking about. I’ve got non stop rain and a not big enough garage, so I’m going to knock it out Sunday. I’ll let you know how it goes!!

This is exactly the information I needed. Does the gray wire that you are T-Tapping into provide power as well? Right now I'm getting power from the passenger fuse box via a spade and an empty fuse. Its a constant power so I have to use the remote to turn it off when I don't want it. Assuming that the gray wire is providing power, do the footwell lights power on when you turn the dome light on manually (like door closed and you want to turn the dome light on to be able to see)?

I have the below kit installed, but I can't find how to make it go on and dim off with the dome lights. It has an "aux" wire from the control unit, but wasn't sure where to tap the gray wire. The wire you are talking about, is it on passenger or drive side? When you say "tap" into it, are you referring to cutting and splicing the aux into it or something else? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OU5LOT2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hate to see it!! One thing to keep in mind, no company that sells Tonneaus is going to guarantee no leaks. With the right amount of time, patience, and sealant you can get it there. I have the MX4 (Bak version of yours) and it took time and tinkering to get it to where I have 99% coverage. 4 tips: get rid of the weather stripping they give. It sucks. Find something thinner and wider for the front. chop down / cut the drain tubes up front for the rails. This helps and allow proper drainage for leak into the rails. wait until it’s sunny, crawl in the back with the cover on and close the gate. Look for light. If it’s at the rear, loosen up front and adjust the cover, If it’s not on a functioning joint - put some silicone on it make sure the “flaps” on the side are flat and straight. I had bad leaks from the side and noticed that the flaps were getting folded under. I rarely fully unfold the cover so just checking this when I close it again is easy enough. there is a ton of hate for the MX4 and it’s GM counterpart. To each their own. I’ve found it as great quality with great features (the full fold up is a lifesaver), but it took me some TLC to make it that way. good luck!!

Update. I found a way to get power via a spade connector on the open post next to 27/28. Hiding the wires was really easy. The backseats there are two elastic bands holding down the seat covers on both the driver and passenger side. Slipped the LED strip into each side and good to go, no zip ties needed. So now I have them powered and all the wires hidden, but I want to figure out how to tie them into the dome wire. Also as a side note, no matter if I use the remote to turn them “off” or not, every time I power the truck on, they turn on. It’s weird that the control box can remember what color they were last on, but can’t remember what power state they were last in. Where can I find that wire (picture if you can) and how did you tie into it? You mentioned with your setup that now they come on white with the door opening. Did you have to leave the lights in the “on” mode? What happens after that? Can you manually power them on/off with the remote after you close the door? Did you stay tied off via spade to the same fuse and then run the dome aux cable and ground?

Do you remember what fuse your tapped into? Do you have to wire the aux wire in addition or will just the fuse tap work? I got into the fuse box in the passenger side and this is where I started to get confused. The fuses I pulled were 3 prong and the fuse taps are 2 prong. Can you also show where you grounded. Just looking for best option. Picture(s) would be greatly appreciated!!!

From what I understand they finally said no more. My truck was built 11/2018. Absolute no was the answer. I don’t know how it’s safer for me to plug in my phone and have cords hanging around to get texts read out loud via CarPlay.

Got the same. Even tried to escalate past them and no go. They won't do it. Seems so silly. I have a near $70K truck and I can't get a feature that comes standard on tons of other $20K vehicles.

I see this has a plug and play fuse connector. How does this work? If I bought I would want it to activate with my dome lights.