Beamie

Nevermind. Problem solved elsewhere.

In searching for oem parking brake cables, confusion is caused by listings for two design versions, 1st or 2nd, for middle and rear cables. Would anyone know the difference to make an identification? Also question for the front cable, for which no part numbers seem to be listed; is it an integral part of the pedal (pedal) control module?

Still have them?

Needing 18" replacement wheels for 2008 truck. I see many later model wheels but am not sure about fit. Because of the year only newer "takeoffs" show up (except for one replica pattern). Originals are 8J18 ET31 but newer ones are either 8.5Jx18 ET24 or ET26 depending on year. Bolt patterns appear the same throughout. Can anyone help clarify?

Do you mean the "Locker" assembly? One fellow quoted to replace everything in there, but there were some questions on the "posi" item he uses and it's different in that it is a clutch type. I'd seen some posts and videos of them blowing out in no time.

Thinking it's differential noise happening at 99,000 miles. Just checked the fluid that changed 7000 miles ago and there is noticeable metal grindings collected on the magnetic fill plug so I presume that as well as noise points to the differential. Differential repair shop, who hasn't seen it but heard the description thought possibility of differential bearing. I am assuming a rebuild by an expert is the only feasible repair. How much would a complete on vehicle rebuild cost replacing all parts?

GM TSB that recommends against using external machines to service transmissions in my truck's era: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2012/SB-10062498-7690.pdf

The shop owner and lead mechanic said "flush" including cleaning out the filter. That's pretty clear. I looked at the device you linked and unfortunately the geometry of my pan would keep the hose about an inch above the bottom of the pan. Others who bought similar devices for the same generation of vehicle and same 4 speed transmission only got 2 quarts out using one and were disappointed. I probed the dipstick tube, took some measurements and figured out that the reason was a bump in the pan under the dipstick tube. You have a good idea and were lucky but it's not useful for my transmission pan geometry. Replacement pans by other manufacturers have the same obstruction at that point.

They "nays" are much more prevalent than the "yeas" as far as machine services. And for timing, we are following our manufacturer's service schedule.

I think you are right. I looked closer at my pan and just below the bottom of the dipstick tube the bottom of the pan has an upset plateau that would keep the siphon tube at least an inch above the deep portion of the pan. I am curious about the direction of fluid circulation. When the fluid line is used to drain, is it pulling the fluid from bottom of the pan and circulating through the transmission or directly out? Is a connector needed for the fluid line method at the cooler? Does the cooler need to be plugged when the line is removed and used to drain?

Ok thanks. I have a 4 speed, 4L60E and wondered if the tube could make it all the way. Some (other) extractors hoses didn't make it far enough in to do the job.

How much is "as much as I could" be? Do you thing it was mostly empty?

Front strut (shock?) assemblies were replaced a little while ago and as noted both front hubs. So now on to the upper ball joints. Thanks for the thought.

I have a sloppy upper ball joint on our '08 that needs replacing at 98,000 miles. Should I have both sides done now to avert an issue in the near future or could the other one hang in there indefinitely presuming that the first is an odd occurrence? Perhaps related, the driver's front hub went out about 20,000 miles ago and the other just got loose and I replaced it so I wondered if ball joints are similar in failure rates.

Now that I've looked closer, there is very little play in the exhaust crossover pipe but the head pipe nuts may come off if the stud bolts are cleaned up a bit with a wire brush/wheel. The heat deflector shield doesn't look to be an issue BUT the shift linkage bracket over laps the pan edge quit a bit and the torx (assumed) bolts feel to be in bad shape. I didn't gent any that I have to fit well due to corrosion. A drive shaft is running blockade for getting vice grips on them if required. This may be pointing to a siphon and refill for the time being.

Thanks again.

Thanks for all the information guys. I'll get out there to see if I think I can get the pan off or will need to pay someone to try get it done. I don't doubt that the exhaust head pipe nuts will be in sad shape here in the land of winter road salts. I'm convinced that the machine service route sound like a potential risk *that I won't take) and that there are alternatives to get a majority of the fluid swapped if access to the filter turns out to be a problem. I know it's a half way last resort but perhaps better than nothing if needs be.

So you evacuate the pan and drop it for a filter change each time?

Would GM have been using synthetic fluid in 2008?

Searching for more clarity, would the transmissions be circulating all the debris all the time when they run?

The shop claims they "flush" the filter and that caused concern. Sitting on the fence but thinking I won't have them do it, just in case. Maybe I'll try to reduce the fluid in the pan through the dipstick tube and a vacuum pump and then try to drop the pan and access the filter. The crossover pipe is a potential hurdle. Is there any harm to be done with a conventional pan drop/filter change with just changing the pan fluid? I recall a former Tahoe with that done and tranny burning smell a short while later.

Thanks for that idea. It got quite a lot of negative feedback. Is yours an older generation perhaps?

Thanks for that. As far as I can see the manual just has a table with a dot in the "change fluid and filter" without getting into the details. For yours, were they implying that merely swapping out 5 or so quarts of new for old fluid was a risk? I don't understand how dropping the pan, draining and cleaning the pan is anything but good.

Thanks. That pan may not be compatible as my pan is stepped but maybe there is something else in the alternates list there.. I've seen the videos and that's what makes me think twice about the potential mess removing the full pan. No lift here so it would be in close quarters, on the back, in the driveway for the pan removal and I don't want an oil spill. The exhaust crossover will run interference making the "careful" removal all that much more iffy. If the pan were mostly empty it would make the removal procedure less of a potential problem.

If only I had a pan with a drain bolt. What was Chevy thinking eliminating the drain plug? Does the fill tube go directly into the pan? If so, maybe the pan could be pumped out before dropping it.