When a lift company claims that a certain size tire “will” fit take it as a general statement because there are so many variables involved, so complaining to BDS won’t help you. If you want the look of a bigger tire but don’t want to rub you need to trim the places you’re rubbing. If you don’t want to trim the places you’re rubbing you need a bigger lift or smaller tires.
That’s happened to me and I’ve read others with the same issue. The parking brake getting stuck is a function of it being electronic and relying on the battery voltage to operate it. Do you have any accessories hooked up to the truck? Even a cell charger left in the cigarette lighter over night can draw enough voltage to cause issues. If you let the truck sit for around 10 min it should reset itself, and you should be able to release the brake and drive off. The CEL will automatically reset in most cases. The dealers not gonna help you they will just jump the truck and clear the CEL and tell you everything is reset.
I’ve posed before about the ride quality, the stock TB Ranchos aren’t the worst but I wanted a better handling truck. With this set up the bounce is eliminated completely, when I go over a bump and low and high speed the struts only cycle once up and down. The body roll and the nose dive on braking have been reduced significantly as well. Feels more like a controlled heavy truck now. The front is stiffer, you feel more feedback from the tires. It’s hard to say, everyone is different but I like more feedback even if it feels like the front is stiffer. You are correct on the lift height with the springs and second from highest perch ring is around 2.7 - 3 inches. I’ve put a level on the bedsides and it’s still not level (the rear end is 1/8 higher according to the bubble) but there’s a bit more wheel well showing in the front compared to the rear. This is with the 2 inch block in the back. Cv angles are perfect and I have the longer TB axles so no issues with going about .8 inches more then the stock front coils.
Are you using the stock springs or the Eibach? The Eibach springs are taller then the oem springs so you’ll get about 2 inches (1.9 according to Eibach) on the 2nd ring from the bottom. Both of those tires will fit as long as you do a bit of trimming on the mud flaps and inner liner.
I have the Eibach pro truck struts and springs in the front. I have them set on the third strut perch. The rear is the TB blocks that came on the truck and the Eibach struts. I’m around 3 inches in the front and 2.5 in the rear. I trimmed the mud flaps and removed the bracket, no zip ties though. I don’t have rubbing even on flex in the front but I’ve trimmed all the places I was rubbing before so you have to be willing to slice the liner a bit.
The CV boot would pop off or tear if the axle came loose. The sway bar and UCAs’s should prevent suspension from articulating enough to cause the axle from popping out. Have you checked if there’s any play in the axle? If you’re getting a clunk I would guess one of the suspension bolts is not fully tightened. The sway bar is a good place to check first, then just go down the line. If you have the tools I would check these things yourself, don’t rely on the shop.
Wait you removed the top strut bolt that holds the spring down? Did you remove it completely? If so you will need to pull the coil over out and use a spring compressor to re-secure the nut.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 86 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,589 Guests (See full list)
- Wayne Black
- Steve Martin
- Jason Rebellion
- Mike Barber
- Stephen Green
- [email protected]
- Chevy's Rock
- Yuri Srb
- Car Dude
- HK GUY
- Dare Wade
- Daryl Z71