malibu43

Thanks. So the body lift allows you to run s bigger tire than with just the 3" level, right?

One more question - what lift/level are you running? I saw these exact wheels in a parking lot today and they look really good.

Hey everyone. I have a 2 inch front level on my 2015 with stock 17" wheels and tires still. I was getting ready to get some new wheels and go 285/70/17 Toyo AT3s. However, I've been thinking lately about trying to get bigger tires (maybe 285/70/18s) and going a bit higher with the level. I really like the looks of trucks with a 3" level (probably should have done that to begin with). If I switch to a 3" level (with new UCAs), will that give me room for something closer to a 34" tire, like 285/70/18 or 305/70/17?

Nice! I was thinking that I didn't want polished aluminum/chrome, but those look really nice. Especially on our color. What lift/level and tire size do you have?

Thanks everyone. Lot's of good looking setups here. Everyone seems to incorporate wheels with some gunmetal or tint. Anyone running just plan Satin Black? I'm finding wheels I like (really starting to like the Fuels), but I'm also realizing now I may need to grow my budget to get what I really like. I may need to put this off for a little longer until I'm really due for new tires...

Nothing wrong with it. Just not the look I'm interested in at this point.

Nice! What wheel and tire size?

Another good look, with just plain satin black wheels (no other colors or machined accents). I think these are RDR USA wheels. https://www.randbautocenter.com/pre-owned-cars/detail/2014-Chevrolet-Silverado-1500-Lifted/195917

Just grabbed this screenshot from an American Trucks youtube video. Fuel Anza. Hard to argue with this look....

Not sure why I never though of checking youtube vs looking at static images. It gives a much better idea of what the wheels really look like. "Dark Tint" wheels on Tungsten Metallic. Some good images of Gunmetal Satin Black Rebounds on a red silverado Titanium Rebounds Titanium definitely look too silver I think for a tungsten metallic truck. Gunmetal looks ok, as does the satin black. Interested to hear other thoughts as well...

I definitely could see how that might look really good with our truck color. The thing I'm not sure about though is what that color actually looks like in normal lighting conditions. Does it look as dark as it does on that website, or does it lighten up quite a bit? Some of the images I've seen of the Icon Rebound Titanium (which I guess will be a bit lighter than gunmetal) they are pretty light colored, almost like dirty machined aluminum wheels...

I've been shopping online quite a bit for new wheels for my 2015 Tungsten Metallic 1500. I have a 2" level and am still running the stock 17" wheels with 265/70/17 highway tires. I've settled on 17" wheels and 285/70/17 tires (probably Toyo AT3s). I've probably changed my mind at least half a dozen times on what wheels I want. This particular color of truck looks very different depending on lighting and it's making it difficult for me to pick wheels that will look good under all or most circumstances. In low light/cloudy conditions, my truck looks very dark gray or almost black. But sometimes in direct sunlight it gives off a little bit of a metallic purple-ish hue. I was most recently deciding between Helo 904s in satin black or Icon Rebounds in satin black with the simulated bead lock. In general, I think I'd black wheels (over chrome or bronze). My truck still has a lot of chrome on the front though, and so I though that some chrome highlights (like beadlock rivets or machined accents) might compliment that well. I was heavily leaning toward some Pro Comp wheels with machined accents, but decided they looked a little to "flashy" for what I was going for. Then the other night I started looking at Icon Rebounds in titanium. I've looked online but am really having a hard time figuring out how light or dark they are, and how they look with particular color of truck. Anyone running a similar wheel style to the Icon Rebounds in a titanium finish with this color of truck? Or anyone running a similar style of wheel with a different finish that they found works really well with this color of truck? I know there's a lot on the internet already (and even this forum), but I have googled myself crazy trying to answer this and haven't really found anything that was what I'm looking for. I figured I'd ask to see if anyone had a fresh perspective.

Thank you both for the info! Very helpful as I work out what I want to do.

Thanks for the response, and especially the pics! Your truck is actually very similar to where I'm hoping to take my truck (even same color), and it's been hard to find pictures of the look I'm going for (including black bowtie and grill mesh), so you posting them has really helped me see what it might look like when it's done.

Thanks for your input/opinion. I did read most of this thread several months ago when I decided to do my 2" level, but I mostly soaked up info related to the mod I was looking at at that time. Hence, me just posting a question about a 3" level or additional upgrades, rather than reading the entire thing again. Again, thanks for the input.

Bump... I guess everyone's out driving their trucks instead of reading forums...?

Now that I have my 2" level installed, I've been shopping casually for tires/wheels online and looking at other trucks out on the road and in parking lots. I was doing some work on the truck last weekend and had the back end lift up so there was almost no weight on the wheels, so the frame and body were several inches higher than normal. My wife came out and said "when are you going to do that to your truck?" "Lift it like that?" I asked. "Yes, that's what I thought you were going to do. You should do that." So my wife planted this idea about going up higher and now I'm starting to agree. I started looking at 3" front and 1" or 2" rear leveling kits with control arms. I watched a youtube video and didn't realize how easy the control arm swap is if you're already in there doing a leveling kit. So while the 2" level was fun and got my feet wet, I'm thinking now I may want to go a little bigger. A couple of questions: 1. With a 3" front level and new control arms, how big can I go with tires? Does that allow you to go bigger than 33" (305's)? 2. Everyone seems to be sold out of control arms right now...? Which are the best to go with (assuming they are available)? 3. What would be the "next level" after a 3/1 or 3/2 leveling kit and control arms? Shock upgrade? At what point should I consider that vs level kits?

I'm curious about this as well. My truck sits perfectly level with a 2" kit up front. But on uneven ground or with any load in the back I get some squat. I added Hellwig 990 helper springs, and they definitely improved the ride with a load, but didn't get rid of the squat like I expected. I was toying with the idea of going .5 or 1 inch higher with a block in the back. Didn't see any blocks for a .5 inch lift though...

Springs and u bolt in question....

Another question - during installation I found that the rear end of the passenger side leaf springs are misaligned by about a quarter of an inch. I noticed it because it made it difficult to slide the rear u bolt over the springs, and the u bolt was sitting a little crooked. Is this normal, and will it cause any issues with the helper springs? Can I (or should I) try to get them back in line with a c-clamp or something?

Never mind. Directions say to lift the truck if necessary to get the outer u-boats started. Cant believe I missed it before...

Hey folks. I went to install my EZ 990 helper springs yesterday and had to abort once I realized a piece of hardware was missing. However, before I got to that point, I had the truck up in the air supported by the frame and the wheels off. When I did a test fit of the helper spring, the cupped ends of the spring were sitting very close to the factory springs (one end was almost within a 1/4 inch of the factory spring, which is where it's supposed to be if you have it tightened down to maximum preload). That got me thinking that maybe you are supposed to install with some weight on the wheels, so that when you "tighten it down to prevent noise and rattling when going over bumps", the springs are in a state that is representative of when you are driving. If I tightened it down to that point with no weight on the wheels, it seems as though there would be a huge preload on the springs once I lowered the truck back down. The directions from Hellwig start with chocking the wheels, but never mention lifting the vehicle. However, the directions end with "lower the vehicle back down", so the directions from Hellwig are also a little confusing about whether their should be weight on the wheels or not. I have looked at you tube, but didn't find a silverado install. The videos for Ford and Dodge see to show it being done both ways... I was able to get the missing hardware from Pep Boys this morning, so I'm hoping to do the install today in the next hour or two (going camping on Thursday and want these on and ready before we go). Can anyone help clarify whether or not I want any weight on the rear wheels when doing the install?

LOL. Thanks. My wife thinks I'm crazy to obsess over this stuff (maybe I am). But at least I'm not the only one. I'll look into the thermometer. What about when you start up and idle? How long before the air gets cold?

How long does it usually take for your AC to start blowing cold air after you turn it on, let's say if your truck's been in the sun for a few hours? I feel like it's not getting cold as fast as it used to after I turn the truck on and let it idle, but I honestly didn't pay that much attention to it before. Cools fine once I'm moving, and it does eventually get cold when just idling, but can take 15-30 seconds depending on how hot it is outside and if it's been in the sun. Is that normal? ... I'm paranoid about AC problems now...

I'll add myself to the list of folks with this issue. 2015 with just over 32K miles on it (within warranty miles but outside the 3yrs). Wednesday of last week lost my AC. I looked through the grill and could see the leak on the condenser. Was going to be $150 just to have the dealer look at, or $90 at a mechanic I've recently found and like. Went with the local shop. The $90 was applied to the $730 total for condenser replacement. The PN on the invoice is WP 84496856.