We know someone with a 2016 escalade and they got a letter saying that as a result of the class action lawsuit on the transmission, they could get it fixed for free if they are getting the P0711 engine code. We have a 2015 Yukon Denali, and we have experienced the common "jerk" in the transmission in this vehicle ever since we bought it and just recently got the engine light with the P0711 and P0700. We never received a letter, but since we know someone with the same car (mostly) who got the letter, I called the stealership to find out more details, and they said that our vin was not one of the ones "included in the class action". I called GMC customer service, they said the same thing. I was trying to ask them why this is, it has the same transmission model the class act is about, we experienced the problem that the class action is about, we have the engine code, I have no idea why this should not be included. The class action is clearly about the 8L90 and 8L45 transmissions. Its not just about certain vins. The lady at GMC couldn't give me a straight answer and just said it might have to do with the date it was assembled, or the plant it was assembled at, or where the parts came from, etc. I'm thinking more like they just picked out which vins they wanted to fix for whatever selfish reasons. Just looking to get a discussion going, to see what opinions or experiences people have to share...
It may be better new, but it may not stay that way. Magnetic suspension went bad pretty quick on the previous generation of these cars, and after a few thousand miles they are worse then the regular ones. Not sure what has been improved in these new ones though. Air suspension might be the best bet. Not sure if air suspension still has a short lifespan magnetic system on it also.
We had a jeep ecodiesel catch fire due to failed egr cooler. I've also heard the duramax lbz is known to have some egr valve issues, such as it getting clogged by soot buildup or the valve failing, but I havnt heard much about fire issues on these engines. Does anyone know if its safe to ignore the engine code for awhile for an egr on the duramax? I'm not sure of the differences in egr systems between a 2014 chrysler ecodiesel and a 06 duramax. The issue on the ecodiesel was that the egr cooler cracked and leaked coolant, causing carbon buildup that was prone to fire when the exaust got too hot. not sure if this leaking cooler issue creates a bigger fire risk then the egr valve failure they talk about on the duramax? Just interested in hearing people's thoughts or experiences, if I have the code should I get it fixed asap or the truck will catch fire or is it ok to let it go for a little while? Thanks.
Another discussion starter. The shocksims website recommends these for the front. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009DNW1SO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 Has anyone used these? It comes up to half the price when using these versus all the part numbers mentioned earlier. If anyone has used these, how to they ride compared to the suspension from the non denali yukon (part numbers above)? their website also only mentions the absorber (23276087) to be replaced in the rear and doesnt mention the coil spring. Perhaps this suspension can be downgraded without needing to replace all the components? Just the absorber in the rear and a monroe complete strut assembly. My main question is what is the difference in replacing all the suspension components with the part numbers in the post above, or just doing a monroe complete strut assembly in the front and just the acdelco absorber in the rear. Thanks for any input.
Problem solved, I found this PDF on the IRV2 forums. to get it out of neutral and to prevent it from getting stuck again by doing a few additional steps. No software update required as long as you follow these steps. Dinghy towing.pdf
2015 GMC Yukon Denali, trying to flat tow for the first time and followed the instructions in the manual to shift transfer case into neutral, then it says to disconnect battery for towing. Then upon reconnecting the battery the transfer case wont come out of neutral and it says service 4wd. I've read this is a common problem and there was a software update that GM has to fix this? I've also heard you can get it out by going through the procedure slowly with 30 seconds between each step, but that didn't work Does anyone know any other way to get this transfer case out of neutral until I am able to get the software update? Thanks.
Has anyone been able to fix the jerking trasmission issue on the 8-speed transmissions in the 2015 Yukon Denalis? If so what was the solution. It seems to jerk the hardest when shifting from 1st to 2nd when accelerating somewhat lightly and it shifts at around 1500 rpm. But when accelerating harder and when its at about 1900 to 2100 rpms when shifting it doesnt jerk as hard... so maybe its a clogged up filter issue? Just bought it 1000 miles ago, it has 102k currently and I don't know if anyone has changed any fluids or filters on it in the past. Thinking about doing a fluid change like showed in this video and seeing if it helps anything... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmx2C8ya0Oo Also heard the torque converter might be an issue? Just interested in starting a discussion on solutions to this common transmission issue. Also, does anyone know the status of the lawsuit? Last I was able to see is that GM was attempting to sidestep it back in December 2019.... Thanks.
Thanks for the heads up on needing the shocksims. Wasn't thinking of that. Vin for similar SLT sounded like it would narrow down the different shocks available, but when I entered the vin on gmpartsdirect.com, when it comes to the coil spring and the shock absorber there are more than 5 different models. (see screenshots). Would anyone know if there is a particular suspension model option that is best for conversion from the magneticride ? Or does it not matter, could just pick any one from this list? Thanks.
Our 2015 Yukon Denali we just bought with 101k miles on it, it rides a little rough. We have driven a tahoe before and it hasn't felt this bad. After doing some research I am finding out the magnetic ride suspension goes bad pretty quickly and becomes a rough ride. I saw somewhere that some people were removing the magnetic ride suspension on denalis and replacing it with the regular suspension thats on the lower trims of yukons and tahoes. Has anyone here done this? If so any issues caused by doing this? Also if anyone has done this, I would be interested in finding out exactly what parts are the best to swap to the regular suspension (part numbers etc.), as there are many different part numbers for the same shocks on gm's parts website, wouldn't know exactly what to start with when it comes to converting the magnetic ride back to standard. Thanks.
Just purchased a 2015 GMC Yukon Denali 4x4 (with the transfer case with neutral setting) and soon will be setting it up to flat tow behind a motorhome. Has anyone towed one of these or have any insight or things I should know. Any caveats? I am aware that the installation of the base plate is a little tricky, and requires some cutting, which is ok. My other question is when actually towing. I have heard some people saying on the forums about the electronic transfer case control having issues with not going into neutral or getting stuck in neutral. But these posts were back in 2015, so has this been corrected by now? Additionally, the manual says the battery must be disconnected, or else damage might be caused. I was going to ask if anyone has any experience to know is there a specific reason to disconnect the battery other than having the steering wheel unlocked. I have heard it could have to do with the electronic transfer case control coming out of neutral while towing, but does anyone have any experience that would back this up. Because it doesnt make sense why it would come out of neutral. There's a fuse for the electronic steering lock (it has the push button start) so I can remove that fuse to keep the steering wheel unlocked so I wouldn't need to disconnect the battery for that reason, but I am wondering what other reasons there might be for disconnecting the battery, just out of curiosity. Does anyone know exactly? Ideally I would like to be able to tow it without disconnecting the battery, so would be great to find out why it needs to be disconnected to see if there are any other loopholes. Any insights from those who tow this vehicle would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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