Neroado

You may have already installed your kill switch, but for what it's worth, I am planning to use a remote relay instead of a toggle switch to turn on and off whatever type of kill switch I end up with. I had planned to use the Drop-In relay kill switch from 41.22, inc., but whether I can use that one or just splice into something, it will be triggered by remote. That way, I can turn the kill switch off, then use the remote start without going to the truck.

I know it's been a while since the last post to this thread, but I thought I should share my experience with 41.22 in case anyone else is considering their Drop-In Kill Switch. I ordered it after seeing good YouTube reviews. I never got an email confirmation, so after a week I tried to email them for a an ETA or tracking number. I found they don't publish an email anywhere, you have to send an inquiry through the help section on their web site. It's one of those comment box deals. After another week of no response, I sent another inquiry, this time to the sales inquiry box instead of the customer service. After another week, I finally got an email stating that my order was now complete - no explanation if that meant it was ready to ship or if they thought it was delivered....? I replied saying that it's not complete until I've received it and that I hadn't. I searched the web, finally went to the BBB and found their parent company (same address), who at least had a phone number. They didn't answer, of course, and never returned my voice mail. I was just about to call the BBB to see what I could do when the package finally arrived. I did notice what I hadn't before - both 44.22 and the parent company have 'F' ratings with the BBB. I had the flu, so a couple weeks went buy until I went to install the switch, only to find that the relay they sent would not fit my 2018 1500 by a long shot. Our starter relays have four small parallel terminals, one at each corner. Their relay has much larger terminals at right angles to each other. My truck, model, engine size, etc. was all spelled out on the order, and on the packing slip. I again did an inquiry through their web site and left a voice mail at the parent company. So far, no response after two full business days. I don't expect a response, but I guess I COULD be surprised (doubt it). I think my only recourse is going to be filing a charge dispute through my bank. I'll update this when there is a resolution. BUYER BEWARE!!!

2018 Silverado, 5.3. I want to install a remote relay kill switch to my starter. I'd like to hide the entire installation under the dash, so I need to locate the starter wire from the ignition switch. Can anyone tell me what color the wire is and what the best place is to access it under the dash? I'm hoping I can splice the relay/switch into an actual old school wire without going through the tiny BCM wires. I'd rather not have to access the starter wire from the engine compartment.

If you just need power back in that area and not inside the bed, you can just purchase a 12V plug adaptor that plugs into seven-pin trailer power port. There is a main line in that port that is always hot. If I recall correctly, it's the larger gauge red wire that goes to the center terminal and it's on a 30Aamp circuit. If you need the power inside the bed, you can easily access the seven-pin wires under/behind the bumper and run a line up behind the DS taillamp. Do your own research on which wire and terminal it is: it's been a while since I checked this out to plug in a macerator plug for my camper. I'm going from memory here.

I need to identify which wires coming from the steering column are for the right and left turn signal. I need to access the turn signal power prior to the flashing circuitry, which I assume is part of the BCM. In other words, I need constant power on for each direction when the turn signal is activated, not intermittent or cycling power, such as flashing or sequencing. Also, if anyone knows what the most accessible spot to gain access to those wires is, that would be helpful. I'm also assuming that the turn signal switch is controlling the positive side of the circuit with low voltage to the BCM. I'm planning to use this switched power to activate a relay, so low voltage is fine. If that's not correct, that'd be helpful info also. Thanks, Ken

NEVER MIND! I foolishly went by memory regarding the installation instructions from a few weeks ago. I was connecting the resistors incorrectly, just adding them to the positive wire without grounding one end. I did learn that if you're using 3ohm resistors, only one per side is needed, not one per bulb.

I'm sure I'm doing something wrong or I've misunderstood something, but I can't get LED tail light bulbs to work without hyperflashing. 2018 Silverado 1500 LT. These are the bulbs I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YZQGTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I first installed them with 6ohm resistors and that didn't work. I remember reading a post by someone who switched to 3ohm resistors and that worked, so I tried that. It still hyperflashes and I get the error message on the screen. I've tried wiring them as an add-on to the bulb wires and also in line with the wires, so the current has to go through them. I've tried one resistor per bulb and also one resistor per side. Nothing works. I get a normal flash for about 4 beats then it goes into hyperflash every time. What am I doing wrong?

Thank you all for your help and advice. I ordered iBrightstar red bulbs on Amazon and 6ohm resistors. They were highly rated and inexpensive, so I thought I'd give them a try. The only thing still in question is if 6ohm is the correct resistor, and how many I need. The listing for the bulbs states that you need one resistor for each turn signal bulb. I did see a video from one of the major bulb vendors where they only installed one per side on a Silverado. I figured that since 6ohm was by far the most being offered, it was a good bet that it'd be right. I didn't see any 3ohm being sold anywhere. And I think I'll install one on each side and see if it works. The bulbs and resistors are supposed to arrive tomorrow, so I'll let you all know how it turned out.

I would think this topic has been covered before, but I can't find it in searches. May be user error, but sorry, I'm not finding what I'm looking for. I want to upgrade my tail/turn/brake light bulbs to LED on my 2018 Silverado. I know they are 7443 bulbs, but I see a lot of RED LED bulbs being offered, and I'm not sure what are better to use, RED or WHITE. What are the differences all else being equal (lummens, etc.) - with red housings, why would red bulbs be needed? What's the advantage? Also, how do I determine what size/type of resistor to use? I did see one post saying that 6ohm resistors didn't work with the bulbs he used, but 3ohm did. Is there another plug 'n play option, like changing the flasher instead of adding resistors? Any help would be appreciated. Seems like it should be a no-brainer, but the huge selection of products out there and not finding one cohesive source of info has my head swimming. Thanks.

2018 Silverado I have a Haloview back-up camera system for my travel trailer with a 7" monitor. I'm having a hard time finding a suitable place to mount the monitor since it's so big and also needs to have the antenna stand vertically above it. I mounted it on a sort of cantilevered arm stuck to the dash just above the center stack, but as expected, I couldn't get it to adhere very long despite thoroughly cleaning the surface and using VHB tape. This was an ideal location since it was right above the factory screen and in my line of sight as I scan other things, like navigation. Also, having it in the center of the dash is the most natural place since it basically replaces my rear view mirror with the trailer attached. With the cantilever mount, it was low enough to minimize obstruction of my view over the hood. I bought the system for another vehicle before I got the truck and it's way past the return date, so I can't easily (inexpensively) switch to a smaller monitor. Does anyone have any pics or descriptions of mounting locations, brackets or mounts that work for a monitor like this? I'd appreciate hearing any ideas. Thanks.

Thanks Slide. I think I would go with just the wire jumper without a diode. Does anyone know what the minimum wire gauge is for a jumper on the BCM? I'm not sure what gauge wire they put on diodes, but I'd want to be sure I'm not under-sizing the wire I use just to get it in the slot. On that note, how big of a wire can fit in the slot?

Does anyone know the minimum wire gauge that's needed for jumpers in this application? I'm guessing there's very low amperage involved, but I'd want to be sure.

Whitemedia what? Do you have a link?

Thanks Waffle. I ordered the gray and it arrived today. I haven't installed it yet, but it looks like an exact match.

This is mu headliner... I'd like to add the Homelink as well, and based on this thread, I'd probably order the entire assembly as in the first link. How do I know what color is right for my interior? I have the Jet Black interior (RPO code HOU) with the light color on the roof and pillars. I would call the roof color "puddy", but I've seen the assembly available in colors called "gray", "light ash/gray" and "tan." Does anyone know which console color would be right for my interior?

I'd like to add the Homelink as well, and based on this thread, I'd probably order the entire assembly as in the first link. How do I know what color is right for my interior? I have the Jet Black interior (RPO code HOU) with the light color on the roof and pillars. I would call the roof color "puddy", but I've seen the assembly available in colors called "gray", "light ash/gray" and "tan." Does anyone know which console color would be right for my interior?