DK91105

I had the same exact issue with my 19' 8 speed at 58k miles, I took it in for warranty. They flushed the trans and replaced the fluid with a different kind per some tech bulletin. This eliminated the issue and its been fine since.

Ouch, that sucks. As stated above the tuning cost alone is around $600 for ECU unlock and 6 HP tuners credits. The parts cost isn't so bad but the labor is awful. I don't have a recommendation for a shop but make sure you take it to someone who has done this exact job before and knows the ropes.

Interesting information but this is the answer to a question that was not asked.

It appears that the battery you linked is groups size 94r which is basically the same as H7. Not sure why there are different size classifications for batteries but at least I can cross reference them easily.

My 2019, 1500 is still on the factory battery. I have to say that I am impressed with getting over 5 years out of it at this point. Last week we had some very cold temps and I could hear it struggling to crank the engine over. I want to go ahead and replace it before it leaves me somewhere and before another hot Texas summer beats on it. This brings me to the point... Shopping batteries I am seeing 2 size options, H6 and H7. My research tells me that the H7 is about 2" wider but the same otherwise. H7 size range offers more CCA etc... What size is the factory battery and what is everyone running?

I'm curious what an independent shop charged you for that service vs what GM quoted me. Did they provide the delete kit? What did you do about the tuning? just kept on with the DFM disabler?

On the audio, no. I haven't changed a thing. It works well, sounds great, and hasn't given me a hint of trouble since day 1. Its hard to make myself mess with it at this point. It would take a significant amount of $ and effort to improve on what I have to the point of making it worth it. Its honestly the biggest factor why I haven't traded it in by now. I don't want to do this again.

2500 mile check in. Things are well and I checked the catch can for the first time yesterday.

3+ years later and this is the best money I have spent on this truck.

Sorry, I cant help you with your part. Can you shed some light on why you are doing this? I briefly looked into it while mine was apart and decided there was little or no benefit for my application.

I feel like $9k is robbery still.... Id do it for $5k in my garage, lol.

Pretty much around $3.5k if you DIY is worse case scenario and that's doing a tune up and buying your own HP tuners as well. Go browse my thread a few down from here if you want an idea of what it takes to do it. If you drop off at a dealership its north of $10k for that.

I am finally getting around to putting some of the mods I have purchased on my truck. Today was to the muffler shop to have these new tips welded on. I removed the factory HDMI outlets a couple of days ago. Having a long reach electric ratchet really helps that job go fast. I can imagine its not fun doing it with hand tools. I didn't want chrome and since my bumper is black I didn't just want powder coated black tips so I went with black chrome. These are 2.5 in x dual 4" out. You can find them on ebay or amazon. They were $119 each.

I have recently had a personal fundamental shift in philosophy in regards to vehicles. I will never purchase a new vehicle again and let the warranty expire while I still owe on it. I recently had a huge repair on my Silverado as documented in another thread here. My truck is paid off and it is also out of warranty. If I wasn't just barely as handy as I am and hadn't of paid the truck of early I would have been stuck with an over $10k repair bill while still making payments or forced to trade it in with a busted engine that would destroy my trade-in value. One thing people are not always privy to is that the cost of these extended warranties is negotiable and they REALLY want to sell it to you. Just keep declining it until about the 5th offer comes around and you know you are pretty close to if not their rock bottom price on it. As far as jumping ship to another vehicle or brand.... They all have problems. Toyota is in the middle of figuring out a huge engine recall where they are replacing the entire engine.... I expect if I am going to hang onto a vehicle beyond its warranty coverage that I am going to have to shoulder the cost of some unexpected maintenance. To me this means things beyond normal wear items like, water pump, alternators, A/C system, radiator, maybe fixing a leak on a rear axle... I didn't until recently consider the engine / trans to be in this list of items but with the problems lingering out there they definitely seem to be. Take this all with a grain of salt, these forums typically showcase the worst of all the problems. The only thing I would suggest is if the cost of a new engine or trans would hurt you financially that you should keep at the bare minimum a comprehensive powertrain warranty buffer between your truck and your wallet.

Whats the mileage for your oil change interval? If you are burning 2qt per 5k miles that is definitely excessive. Has it always been like this or is this a new problem? Any smoke on startup or that you notice at all? leaking? I would definitely not let it get out of warranty where the buck is passed to me if this is an issue that has shown up out of nowhere.

I figured it out. All emissions systems finally went into a "ready" status and it passed emission inspection in TX which is a OBDII plug in inspection. So to answer your question, no this will not cause a truck to fail emissions inspection.

Thank you both for the replies. I can tell you with certainty that I have not met all of those driving conditions. I guess I need to hit the road a bit more.

I have completed my DFM delete as documented in another thread and as luck would have it my inspection expired right after I wrapped the job up. I plugged in a cheap OBDII scanner just to check the condition of the emissions systems and I have several that are showing "incomplete" status as opposed to "READY" I have only put around 200 miles on it since I finished the job. Is there a time frame after you have had the battery disconnected for a while before everything is ready again? Some of the systems that are showing the INCOMPLETE status had zero to do with the job that I did like 02 sensor heater, fuel system, and evaporative system. Has anyone that has done the DFM delete had issues getting the truck inspected after the fact in an area that does emissions inspection via the OBDII port?

Do any of these trailers have brakes? Also your increased tire size really hurts your trailering ability. While expensive, re-gearing your truck would help you a ton if you are dead set on pushing the limits. You would also probably want the TCM tuned at that point which adds additional cost.

I have heard no, the DFM system isn't looked at with that style of emissions test. My inspection literally expires today so I'll let you know what happens in the next day or so. I had to edit my comment, I just went back out and plugged in my OBDII reader and some of the items are not showing "ready" I'm going to look into it.

I reused the stock pushrods. No change in length is necessary with ls7 lifters and the L8T cam. They removed .003" from the heads and I used stock thickness head gaskets. It's not enough of a difference to really matter. If you go more, you might start to get into the range of having to take it into consideration. I'd ask the machine shop to be sure.

Amsoil signature series 5w30. Can't go wrong with that and their filter.

Quick little update, I have put about 100 miles on it since I finished it up. I don't know if it was cleaning all the gunk / buildup off of the valves, fresh plugs and wires, the DFM delete, or a combo of all of it but it certainly feels a lot more peppy. Also at idle I have had to check several times if it had turned itself off. Its running so smooth its impossible to tell its even running at all Speaking of turning itself off.. I disabled auto start / stop in HP tuners. However the light on the button itself is still on. I believe the setting in HP tuners just denies the condition that would allow it to do the auto shut off but the truck is still looking. So basically it looks like its active but it will never shut itself off. I know with the Pulsar LT module it actually makes the truck think the button has been pushed and you get the notification on the dash and the light is turned off on the button. Just a little bit of info I found interesting.

Well I'm all done, back together, and running. Here's a few final thoughts about this job now that it's all done. If you have a decently stocked toolbox and your back is in decent shape you can do this by yourself without pulling the engine. You will need a couple specialty tools but nothing crazy. The GM cam that is recommended for this job if you delete the DFM is called a "L8T" cam. I was concerned that the engine would need actual tuning but that is not the case, It runs fine. You will need someone with HP tuners to turn off the DFM and tell it to ignore all codes associated with it that would cause a CEL. Beyond all that, if you have it apart already, it's a great time to go ahead and do a tuneup. I put new plugs, wires, belts, and hoses on since they were off anyways. This of course adds some cost but worth it to me. I also did a couple of frivolous things like put a new water pump assembly on and purchased my own HP tuners. All in all I have just over $3500 in the whole job including all parts, fluids, machine work on the heads, catch can, and the HP tuners stuff. Compared to the one quote I received from a GM dealership it's quite a savings. They quoted me over $10k for the job if the cam was bad which turned out it was and that was just putting it back the way it was with DFM lifters.

So I decided to add a catch can to my 2019 5.3 after seeing how much carbon build up was present on the valves during a recent repair. I looked around a bit and settled on the k&n unit after seeing they were pretty much all the same for the most part. When I got it I looked at how it connected and was surprised to see that the hose on the passenger side valve cover is not altered at all during the install. When I removed this hose for my repair it was clear a good amount of oil is passing through it. How can these catch cans be effective with only the drivers side hose being addressed?