Everything posted by Wayne Black
It's always been my opinion that with these computer run vehicles, the computer should always save and remember every setting you change before shutting the engine off. Good luck, I hope it works for you..
You might try setting up a "User" account. I had to do this in order to get Shuffle for my music to stay turned on, but ended up removing the account because I had to choose the account every time I started the truck. I know, it makes no sense if you're the only one driving it. I believe it's a bug in the software since every setting you make should stick when the truck is turned off.
Sorry, I guess I didn't make myself clear. The "fuel pump thing" you talk about is when you "run out of fuel". Not when the low fuel warning light comes on. I guarantee you the fuel pump in the tank will get hot and burn out if you run out of fuel too often. The fuel is used to cool the pump. I worked for 31 years at AC Delco and many of those were in the electric fuel pump division.
You may have a slightly faulty sensor, but I've always understood that when the low fuel light comes on you have about 10% left in the tank which would be about 2.5 gallons and in most vehicles. That would get you about 30 to 60 miles before you completely run out of fuel. I've tested this on past vehicles by carrying a 5 gallon gas can and running until empty to see how far I could go after the low fuel light came on. My 2003 Hemi went over 60 miles before it quit. I had the 26 gallon tank. I was getting about 22-25 mpg so that seemed close enough. Word of warning: You don't want to do this too many times as the electronic fuel pump in the tank relies on the fuel to keep it cool. Once is enough. When filling at a station, I will allow the hose to shut off and wait about a minute ( or wash the windows.) and run it again until it shuts off once more. Gains another 1/2 to a 1 gallon in my 2020 Silverado 3.0 Duramax.
I've been super happy with the new keyless fob and have set up "Passive Auto Lock" (not many people know about this, but if you have the right options it's available in vehicle settings ). My key fob never leaves my pocket so no chance of the truck locking with the fob still inside. 5 seconds after all the doors are shut and you walk away all the doors auto-lock. This might be a problem for women who tend to keep EVERYTHING in their purses and the truck doesn't warn that the key fob is still in the truck. I would try it when setting up Passive Auto Lock and you have the spare fob in the house away from the truck. If everything is working the truck "should" warn you the fob is inside when you shut the door and before auto locking. Also another hidden gem is the new GM keyless entry Keypad. Check it out at: https://gmauthority.com/blog/2019/11/gm-keyless-entry-keypad-gets-new-design-for-2020-model-year/ A bit pricey at $145 + dealer install, but it would solve many door locking and unlocking problems people seem to have.
Seriously when did you think this was going to happen? When did you think we were going to move away from oil to electric? In fifty or a hundred years? That's what they were thinking 50 and 100 years ago. That pipeline that was cancelled. Was it really going to be needed in the next 10 years? Same with cattle, pigs and chickens. Vegetable based meats will be the main thing in 10 years. It's time to get out of the meat business. Solar and wind power will advance. Batteries will advance. Tesla Power Walls are already powering homes during emergencies and it won't be long before the entire grid is not needed. Electric cars will become more popular as the technology advances. This is after all the 21st century. People need to realize that we're going to move forward away from oil before it runs out completely.
In my case it has to do with how often I use my truck. Apparently the usage will expire after a year and is not determined by only mileage. I had 2500 miles on the truck after 10 months and the oil life was at 17%. In two more months it would have reached 0%. Most people average 10,000 miles or more and the service manager said the oil life should expire at 5,000 or so. The same thing will probably happen after every 12 months for me since I don't use the truck a lot. I guess I can expect an oil change once a year. Might just trade it in when the electric Silverado comes out.
Yeah, that's crazy. You would think with a new engine like the 3.0 Duramax, which was built completely new from the ground up, GM would send out special training videos or at least must read emails containing pdf files describing any special treatments for the new engine. Oh wait! They did send out a bulletin (#19-NA-180) which is a interesting read, but of course you have to read it and get down to page 12 with the LARGE letters stating dexosD is only to be used. Apparently my Service Tech read the bulletin, but failed to check inventory before draining the oil. The dexosD oil IS different from other synthetics and specially formulated for the unique emissions exhaust system on the 3.0 Duramax. Mobil 1 claims to be dexosD compliant, but I think I'll stick with ACDELCO at least until other synthetics label the oil as dexosD.
If you have the 3.0 L Duramax, check with the dealer BEFORE you have the oil changed. For some reason my oil life was down to 15% and the truck (2020 Silverado LTZ) only had 2500 miles on it. I like to get rid of the factory oil anyway so I took it in for the first (and now only!) warranty service. After waiting about an hour the service manager came out and told me that my truck was the first 3.0 L they had done an oil change on and they didn't have the oil (Special AC Delco DexosD} in stock! Nice. Naturally the Service "Tech" had drained the oil before checking inventory. Couldn't go to the Autozone which was 1/4 mile away. They had to go to their other dealer 70 miles away. So, 2 hour wait. Told them to give me a loaner, I didn't care if it wasn't a truck and I would be back next morning. Service manager couldn't give an explanation for the short oil life. He said it should be double that at 5,000 miles. The truck was driven little in 10 months so maybe something other than mileage brings down the oil life percentage. Time may also be a factor. Service manager though claimed computer only went by mileage. This wasn't the first time something similar happened. I had a '92 GMC Typhoon and when I took it in for the first oil change (back when you didn't get free warranty changes.) and got the bill, they charged me for standard oil. Whoever did the oil change was unaware that the turbo engine required synthetic oil. They also didn't have the proper oil in stock and I had to bring it back the next day to have the standard oil drained and replaced with the synthetic oil. Anyways, make sure your dealer has the correct oil first.
I might have to send them an email. My bumpers are chrome and I didn't see chrome as a listed color. Not sure if matching them to the Cajun Red Tintcoat would look good. And who would have thought there was a website called "bumperplugs[.]com! lol!
Yep. Aluminum pop rivets. I used a 3/16 inch drill to remove the heads. Be careful and drill just enough to remove the head. Too aggressive and you'll hit the bumper. Then I took a small 1/8 inch flat tipped punch and carefully punched out the rivets. Now I'm looking for something to dress up the holes like a small chrome cap. (or maybe a license plate holder LOL!) Not sure what would work.
Extended warranties are for those people who can't save money. Autos, tv and any electronics. Extended warranties make money for the seller. I have money in a bank account for the emergency that may or may not happen. I'm betting that the emergency repair won't happen, but if it does, I'll be able to pay for the repairs. Instead of buying an extended warranty, I've put the money into savings. Chances are I'll never need it.
I don't know a whole lot about this stuff, but I just read an interesting article at tfltruck[.]com: https://tfltruck.com/2021/01/owner-review-here-is-my-2020-ford-super-duty-diesel-regen-schedule-it-lasts-for-miles/ Could the computer be "stuck" in the regeneration cycle where it uses more fuel to raise the exhaust temp to clean out the Diesel particulate filter? Might be worthwhile getting an OBDII reader and monitoring the Exhaust gas recirculation valve setting and the Exhaust gas temps just to see if anything looks out of place since you're using more fuel than typical. I picked up a "BlueDriver OBDII" at Amazon. That where I would start anyway. Good Luck figuring it out.
I had someone call me and I couldn't hear them. They could hear me, but there was no incoming call sound. Turns out I needed to turn up the radio volume when it was first used. Then I could hear them. Apparently when the phone connects a call the phone volume is independent of the music volume. Now it works as it should.
From what I understand there is a company in Flint, Michigan doing quality control checks on the raw 3.0L castings and they are scraping out a lot of faulty castings. Something to do with the rear oil seal area. These are raw castings from Mexico and haven't had the final machine work done. My theory is, some faulty ones are getting through and the rear oil seal isn't sealing as it should after the final machining.
Although my Silverado is 2WD, I've averaged under 25 mpg once. The computer is a bit optimistic by 1 or 2 mpg. My best is 34+ mpg. (I had to drive 50 mph in a work zone for a number of miles.) I use an App called "Simply Auto" to record tank fills. From brand new at 3 miles it has been 25+. Now at 2514 miles I'm averaging 27.5 mpg by App tank full computing. Wind, I've found makes a BIG difference. Heading into 10-15 mph wind speeds will bring my mileage down to 17-20. This is averaging 70 mph. Returning and with a tail wind, the mileage is back up to 28+ A lot of my driving would be called city, around 15 miles total per trip, averaging between 35 to 45 mph with occasional 90 mile trips to the big city. (I'm retired after all ? My tank full average has only gone under 25 with 23.27 once in 2514 miles. I can only hope for better after the engine is broken in. I would definitely get your 3.0L checked out. It doesn't sound right. But, I'm sure happy!
The only thing I would suggest is to go to: https://www.belmetric.com/8mm-stainless-studs-c-563_1024_1620/ Look for a stud that matches yours and buy 3. Secure stud in bottom nut with Loctite Stud Locker. Replace all and cure ocd.
Same problem. Apparently it wasn't injection molded large enough to snap in properly. A little Super Glue on the bottom catches solved the problem for me. Not important enough to take to the dealer.
It's also entirely possible that GM was having issues replacing faulty rear buttons and just decided they weren't needed and you could configure the front button to unlock all the doors. When I was a Senior in High School my daily driver was a '57 Chevy and I know this sounds crazy, but you had to actually stick the key into the door and turn it 90 degrees to unlock your car! Times were tough back then! A friend had a '57 four door hardtop and to unlock the back door you had to reach around in the open front door and pull the button up! By the end of the day, you were totally exhausted. Sarcasm.
I went from 2018 6.2 L to the "Baby Duramax" and I'm impressed at the power the 3.0 will dish out when asked. Not to mention the mpg. Wind is an issue though. Heading into it, mpg drops to around 22 at 70 mph. With a tail wind, I get close to 30. Still, not bad for a truck. Not missing the 6.2 at all. (Except, the sound. I just loved that sound with a Borla Sport exhaust swap.)
You should hear the sounds my 3.0 Duramax makes when it is shut off. "Clack, clack, clack, clack, weeeze!". Seems there is a valve that sends water to various parts of the engine and passenger compartment at different temps when cooling/heating. After the engine is shut down the valve cycles through several positions for some reason.
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