ShogunKC

That's all I needed to relocate my bumper plug into the bed. Like someone mentioned, I didn't even have to remove any bedliner (2024 Sierra 3500).

I traded my 2020 3500 for a 2024 3500 last month. I moved the camera ports to the bed for towing our trailer but couldn't get the rear camera to work - screen was black with an hourglass. Thought to check out the forums today after ordering a second set of FAKRA-to-FAKRA cables thinking that the cheap $6 cables on Amazon weren't as good as the ones from Pasternak. I guess I'm a little frustrated to hear that the prior trailer cameras don't work. If I could get away with just a camera instead of the whole thing, that would be awesome. TBH running 60 feet of cable under and through the trailer with winter coming on doesn't sound like a project I am wanting to tackle at the moment. If you have those part numbers, that would be super helpful. Thanks!

Great news! What did you use to connect the 6 foot cable into the bumper connectors?

My dealer placed an order for me on 1/31 using one of the HD's in their allocation. When I went in this week for an oil change, they checked on the order and couldn't find it. For some reason, it didn't go through. But, they did have another 3500 Dually in allocation with a "2000" status number (they said that's about ready to go to build - it gets a "3000" number when they start building it ultimately ending with "5000" as delivered). The general manager made a few changes to that truck to match what I wanted and they think it'll go into build in a week or two.

The "031-14693 BACK UP TRAILER CAMERA VIDEO CABLE REPAIR END" is technically an Amphenol RF connector, part 122108RP. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-RF/122108RP?qs=mkvzZYCyQViZOgysniBgoA%3D%3D I think the connector that goes into the bumper plug is likely a version of TNC or BNC connector. I started looking into it before but moved onto other things after I was able to re-use my bumper plug connector.

I don't think that there really is any difference between the two cables other than the color of the connectors. Both cables are Fakra Male to Fakra Female (assuming you are looking at PE3C2779-48 & PE3W08444-48). I am not sure about the Amazon cables - there isn't enough detail to determine what type of Coax (Pasternak cables are low-loss LMR-100) and the polarity of the cables. 1m might be a little tight, but there are others here that made the change using 3ft cables. Also remember these cables will be outside - the Amazon cables look to be designed for hooking up internal vehicle connections (GPS, radio, etc.). At that price point, wouldn't hurt to order them and try. Amazon returns is pretty easy if they don't work.

We tow a 2023 Lakota Bighorn horse and living quarters trailer. GVWR of the trailer is 21,000 lbs. Before this trailer, we had a 2020 SMC Laramie that was also 21K GVWR. Haven't had any sort of towing issue whatsoever - transmission and engine temps are usually right where they should be, even on hot days or pulling up a grade. Haven't take it up the Ike on I-70 in Colorado yet, but we did that a couple of years ago with a 2019 Sierra HD and the SMC and had no issues on either side of the pass.

You can purchase the cables online through Pasternack (https://www.pasternack.com/). The SKU for the 10' cable is PE3W08444-120. The last 3 digits represent the length of the cable in inches, so if you need a 20' cable, the SKU would be PE3W08444-240.

Did you move the entire module or just the antenna? I thought that the module didn't really have an external antenna.

I'll send you a DM - I have a 10' one I ordered but didn't end up needing.

Finally did my move yesterday from the bumper to the bed. Also fixed the broken cable end on the camera that snapped when I did a u-turn out of the barn with the gooseneck. I ended up pulling the "ears" on the clip outward so that they would have the more distance needed to snap into place. One of them snapped right in - the other I had to get underneath with a long screwdriver and pulled at it until it also snapped into place.

I could not get a PAL connector to fit (male PAL to the Auxiliary Camera Connector). A male PAL connector measures 9.3 mm on the outside and the Auxiliary Camera Connector measures 8.7 mm on the inside. I could force the PAL connector into the Camera Connector, but it doesn't seat all the way. I think that the Auxiliary Camera Connector that goes into the truck is a Reverse Polarity TNC (TNC-RP or RP-TNC) connector but customized without the screw-on outer shield. The plastic outer connector replaces the screw-on shield so that you can easily push/pull the connector from the truck connector.

I was able to get the pin in the connector reset back to the correct position. Just applied a little heat and used a wire to push it back and held it there while the connector cooled off.

I recommend the grinder method. Applying heat did not loosen the connector in any way. But, it did manage to melt the plastic inside the black connector and the pin is not centered and is sticking out of the connector when it was flush. Once I had the coax connector off, I could remove the c-pin and remove the metal connector from the outer black plastic holder. There are no part numbers or anything to identify this piece. Going to try heat again and seeing if I could push that pin back into place...

I got a replacement metal connector for the coax and asked them how to remove it from the black connector - they said to use heat. I tried a lighter and it wasn't enough. Haven't gotten out the torch yet. May need a trip to Harbor Freight to get a heat gun. They said that it's held together with locktite.

I thought that I would post up some pics of my camera install on my 47' gooseneck horse trailer. Because of the trailer length, I ordered a 25' extension cable from Pasternack (SKU PE3W08444-300). I installed the camera at the bottom of my hay rack, which is above 3" above the actual trailer itself. I routed the cable down through the generator pod and into the back of the trailer (which is a storage area for tack, saddles, etc.). From there, I kept it hidden inside some panels and routed it towards the front of the storage area where I drilled a hole into the metal panels and ran the cable into the storage mangers on the left side of the trailer. That allowed me to keep the cable in a dry area and protected, because that's where the extension cable meets up with the OEM cable., From there, I drilled a hole in the floor and the cable exits the storage mangers to the exterior underneath the trailer. I then zip-tied the cable to the propane gas line that goes up to the front of the trailer. I wanted originally to have the cable go into the bumper, but I didn't have enough slack and broke the cable connector from the coax. I just ordered the extensions I need to move the camera connectors into the bed. Back of the trailer - camera mounted above the double doors on the hay storage pod. Closer look of the camera. Routed the cable into the hay pod and then into the generator pod and down the conduit for the generator cables into the trailer. Here's the conduit from the generator into the trailer. This is where the extension cable meets the OEM cable inside the storage mangers. Running the cable through the manger allowed me to keep the Pasternack extension cable out of the elements except for maybe the first 2-3 feet and also keeps the connector protected as well. Ran the cable under the trailer attached to the propane gas line with zip ties.

Has anyone tried to remove the silver coax connector from the black plastic plug/connector that goes into the truck? I've tried twisting and it doesn't seem to want to come loose. I'm wondering if maybe it needs to be pushed in at the same time as turning to disconnect the two.

Not sure that would work. @Rjsires and @TIMAYZ posted earlier that the connector into the bumper appears to be a PAL DVB connector. See comment at Of course, the adapter/connector above wouldn’t be waterproof. I have also seen posts that it's a FAKRA connector. I haven't tried either to see which one it really is. I’ve tried to look for just the OEM black waterproof connector without any luck. Was also hoping to build my own camera and cable kit.

I ran into the same issue. Thought that I had enough cable on my gooseneck trailer but broke the coax going into the connector when I pulled the trailer out of the barn and went around my circle drive. I was excited to show my wife the new camera and it was blank when I pulled up the screen - went back to the connector and found the coax had broken off. I ordered a replacement connector to go into the coax. Also ordering the extension from Pasternack - I'm going go ahead and move the connectors into the bed although I was hoping someday to get cameras on some of my bumper pull trailers.

Saw it online and definitely interested. Did you install it yourself? If so, how did that go? I was curious about how to disconnect the fuel lines - seems like a special tool is needed?

I don't like that that much because it looks like you've hit your brakes just as you pulled in front of a semi. All I need to do is figure out the signals on the bus and then I can use the Ardiuno to pass those signals when I want. I like it because now I'm not tapping or splitting into wiring.

I wanted to flash my parking lights but really the trailer marker lights to thank truckers who flash their lights to let me know it's clear to move back over after passing them. I was looking into an interrupt switch, but at 15 amps, I would want a relay and that made it more complicated. A friend suggested I look at the CAN BUS and sure enough I found a place that sells a module that will turn the factory lights into strobes for construction, emergency, etc. That module plugs directly into the BCM, so I assumed that I could probably do my own device using an ardiuno that specifically flashed the trailer parking lights on and off.

Tell me about your Autoenginuity Scanner - can it read and send CAN BUS commands/signals? I want to control the behavior of the parking lights and understand that they are controlled through the BCM. My OBD scanner doesn’t do much (ie it’s cheap).

What would really be awesome would be the ability to change the rear view mirror screen to use the trailer camera view instead of the camera on the tailgate or brake light - when I'm pulling a trailer, can't see anything really through the rear view mirror in either setting (mirror mode or camera/screen mode).

I wonder if perhaps the camera is bad. I haven't been able to test because my trailer was in the shop getting some warranty work done and I left the camera kit in the trailer to see if my dealer could give me an estimate for installing it. In the end, I'm about 14' short so I ordered an extension cable from Pasternack and will do the install myself. In the meantime, I started looking for the camera with part number 23390514. One of the websites I found that had the camera also listed it also superseded by part # 84676845. https://www.gmpartscorp.com/p/GMC__Sierra-1500/Camera-Front--Rear/73720823/23390514.html I then looked up 84676845 and it seems to be a very common GM camera used on a lot of cars and trucks. I picked up my trailer yesterday and am prepping for a camping trip, so probably won't have time, but was thinking of pulling the tailgate camera and attaching it to the trailer camera cable and seeing if it worked. Could be a cheaper option, but even if I got the camera, would still need an aftermarket cable that plugged into the truck receptacle. Anyone else willing to try out a camera on their truck hooked up to the OEM cable?