ShogunKC

Great news! What did you use to connect the 6 foot cable into the bumper connectors?

My dealer placed an order for me on 1/31 using one of the HD's in their allocation. When I went in this week for an oil change, they checked on the order and couldn't find it. For some reason, it didn't go through. But, they did have another 3500 Dually in allocation with a "2000" status number (they said that's about ready to go to build - it gets a "3000" number when they start building it ultimately ending with "5000" as delivered). The general manager made a few changes to that truck to match what I wanted and they think it'll go into build in a week or two.

The "031-14693 BACK UP TRAILER CAMERA VIDEO CABLE REPAIR END" is technically an Amphenol RF connector, part 122108RP. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-RF/122108RP?qs=mkvzZYCyQViZOgysniBgoA%3D%3D I think the connector that goes into the bumper plug is likely a version of TNC or BNC connector. I started looking into it before but moved onto other things after I was able to re-use my bumper plug connector.

I don't think that there really is any difference between the two cables other than the color of the connectors. Both cables are Fakra Male to Fakra Female (assuming you are looking at PE3C2779-48 & PE3W08444-48). I am not sure about the Amazon cables - there isn't enough detail to determine what type of Coax (Pasternak cables are low-loss LMR-100) and the polarity of the cables. 1m might be a little tight, but there are others here that made the change using 3ft cables. Also remember these cables will be outside - the Amazon cables look to be designed for hooking up internal vehicle connections (GPS, radio, etc.). At that price point, wouldn't hurt to order them and try. Amazon returns is pretty easy if they don't work.

We tow a 2023 Lakota Bighorn horse and living quarters trailer. GVWR of the trailer is 21,000 lbs. Before this trailer, we had a 2020 SMC Laramie that was also 21K GVWR. Haven't had any sort of towing issue whatsoever - transmission and engine temps are usually right where they should be, even on hot days or pulling up a grade. Haven't take it up the Ike on I-70 in Colorado yet, but we did that a couple of years ago with a 2019 Sierra HD and the SMC and had no issues on either side of the pass.

You can purchase the cables online through Pasternack (https://www.pasternack.com/). The SKU for the 10' cable is PE3W08444-120. The last 3 digits represent the length of the cable in inches, so if you need a 20' cable, the SKU would be PE3W08444-240.

Did you move the entire module or just the antenna? I thought that the module didn't really have an external antenna.

I'll send you a DM - I have a 10' one I ordered but didn't end up needing.

Finally did my move yesterday from the bumper to the bed. Also fixed the broken cable end on the camera that snapped when I did a u-turn out of the barn with the gooseneck. I ended up pulling the "ears" on the clip outward so that they would have the more distance needed to snap into place. One of them snapped right in - the other I had to get underneath with a long screwdriver and pulled at it until it also snapped into place.

I could not get a PAL connector to fit (male PAL to the Auxiliary Camera Connector). A male PAL connector measures 9.3 mm on the outside and the Auxiliary Camera Connector measures 8.7 mm on the inside. I could force the PAL connector into the Camera Connector, but it doesn't seat all the way. I think that the Auxiliary Camera Connector that goes into the truck is a Reverse Polarity TNC (TNC-RP or RP-TNC) connector but customized without the screw-on outer shield. The plastic outer connector replaces the screw-on shield so that you can easily push/pull the connector from the truck connector.

I was able to get the pin in the connector reset back to the correct position. Just applied a little heat and used a wire to push it back and held it there while the connector cooled off.

I recommend the grinder method. Applying heat did not loosen the connector in any way. But, it did manage to melt the plastic inside the black connector and the pin is not centered and is sticking out of the connector when it was flush. Once I had the coax connector off, I could remove the c-pin and remove the metal connector from the outer black plastic holder. There are no part numbers or anything to identify this piece. Going to try heat again and seeing if I could push that pin back into place...

I got a replacement metal connector for the coax and asked them how to remove it from the black connector - they said to use heat. I tried a lighter and it wasn't enough. Haven't gotten out the torch yet. May need a trip to Harbor Freight to get a heat gun. They said that it's held together with locktite.

I thought that I would post up some pics of my camera install on my 47' gooseneck horse trailer. Because of the trailer length, I ordered a 25' extension cable from Pasternack (SKU PE3W08444-300). I installed the camera at the bottom of my hay rack, which is above 3" above the actual trailer itself. I routed the cable down through the generator pod and into the back of the trailer (which is a storage area for tack, saddles, etc.). From there, I kept it hidden inside some panels and routed it towards the front of the storage area where I drilled a hole into the metal panels and ran the cable into the storage mangers on the left side of the trailer. That allowed me to keep the cable in a dry area and protected, because that's where the extension cable meets up with the OEM cable., From there, I drilled a hole in the floor and the cable exits the storage mangers to the exterior underneath the trailer. I then zip-tied the cable to the propane gas line that goes up to the front of the trailer. I wanted originally to have the cable go into the bumper, but I didn't have enough slack and broke the cable connector from the coax. I just ordered the extensions I need to move the camera connectors into the bed. Back of the trailer - camera mounted above the double doors on the hay storage pod. Closer look of the camera. Routed the cable into the hay pod and then into the generator pod and down the conduit for the generator cables into the trailer. Here's the conduit from the generator into the trailer. This is where the extension cable meets the OEM cable inside the storage mangers. Running the cable through the manger allowed me to keep the Pasternack extension cable out of the elements except for maybe the first 2-3 feet and also keeps the connector protected as well. Ran the cable under the trailer attached to the propane gas line with zip ties.

Has anyone tried to remove the silver coax connector from the black plastic plug/connector that goes into the truck? I've tried twisting and it doesn't seem to want to come loose. I'm wondering if maybe it needs to be pushed in at the same time as turning to disconnect the two.