mysery1

I had a similar problem years ago and it ended up being the positive battery cable that ran to the main fuse block/ECU. It looked fine but when I sliced it open it was badly corroded.

The rotor couldn't be turned so I replaced it. Installed new pads on both sides and called it a day. Peace

I still do oil changes on our 2 vehicles and my motorcycle. I have a robot mower for the yard but can't use it in my backyard because my wonderful dog keeps digging the guide wire up so I have to push mow it. Not much of a walker especially during the summer, just to hot. I will ride my e-bike almost daily which helps to keep my knees and hips loose and helps with my balance. That's my story an I'll stick with it. We have been in the mid to high 90's with a feel like temp of 105 to 109 for the last month with no rain. We finally got some rain which cooled it off but were still stuck with the humdity. I do pace myself and that's why it takes me 2 days to do something that used to take a couple of hours. Peace

I turned 72 today. My day began with a trip to the pharmacy to pickup meds for me and the dog and then a stop at my chiropractor before heading home. Once home I started the job of replacing the rear brake pads and one rotor on our 2018 Silverado which will probably end up taking me 3 days to finish, gotta pace myself you know. Sometimes I question myself on why I still do most of my own repairs but if I wasn't then it's more than likely I would be sitting in front of the TV all day. It seems like the list of things I need to do gets longer no matter what I accomplish. I'm not complaining but being retired was so much easier when I was 62. Peace

I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor. I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs. Peace

I know this old thread but I just replaced the left side engine mount on my 2018 5.3 2wd and it was a pain. A quick search showed that it was probably going to cost around $600 to $900 to get it replaced. I researched how to replace it and decided to do it myself being that I'm retired and have the time and tools. What should have taken a day took me 4 days plus a couple trips to my chiropractor and some blood. Why a mount failed at 150k miles is beyond me but such is life. Peace

Quit over thinking this and took a 4 gauge cable and crimped 2 lugs on the cable for #10 bolts. Drilled out the lugs with a 15/64 drill to fit the metric bolts for the battery clamp and where the cable mounts to the frame. Ran the cable through the current sensor, attached both ends and called it a day.

I'm trying to figure out the best way to upgrade/replace the small ground (8 gauge wire maybe) wire from the battery to the frame. I want to change it to 4 gauge wire because I'm installing a 50 amp DC2DC charger in my travel trailer. I want to use the frame as the return (negative) instead of buying another 20' 4 gauge cable. It needs to run through the current sensor which shouldn't be a problem. My problem is the limited space around the negative post.

Had an intermittent "service stabilitrak" error on my wife's 2008 silverado. Ended up being the connector on the throttle body. Removed and sprayed with contact cleaner and reconnected. Never had the problem again. It's been awhile but I think I was losing the B+ voltage source and it only was used in a few places. One of them being the throttle body.

I had a bad positive cable once causing me various and intermittent problems. Cable looked good but when I removed it checked it's resistance it was high.

Found out they are a Max Trac 3" leveling kit for raising the front end.

Removed from the top of the shock/spring assembly when I lowered my wife's 2018 silverado 1500 2wd.

Old shoes n New shoes

2/3 drop old with 22's new with 20's

Curious is the fault only present when towing a trailer with the 7 pin connector hooked up.

Pics. I added a little piece of foam between the bracket and the dash to keep it from shaking when the monitor is mounted.

Used this to mount my backup camera monitor. https://coursemotorsports.com/collections/phone-mounts-1/products/chevrolet-gmc-direct-fit-magnetic-phone-mount-1500-2500-3500 Works really well and I use to hold phone when not using my monitor. Can take some pics if needed.

I found a set of 20" takeoffs with 275/60R20 tires. I never liked the 22's that came with the truck. With a 2/3 drop and a tire diameter about 1 1/2 larger than 22's I like the look. The ride quality seems fine with a little more road noise which I expected due to more aggressive tread pattern and not being P rated. I have also had no issues with anything rubbing.

It looks like I'm going with 18's as I have a better selection of tires. I want something with a fairly stiff sidewall when towing. The truck has 2" belltech drop spindles installed but this shouldn't be a problem per the installation instructions.

So I scanned the QR code and the truck originally came with 20's. I want to run LT tires for towing so I'm going to go back to the 20's. If 18's will fit I would consider putting a set of those on.

What size spare tire comes with a truck that came from the factory with 22's? The spare on my truck is a 17.

Nice truck. I did not know what the factory size was for 22's. I believe mine came from the factory with 20's as that is what is on the sticker on the B column.

Nice to know about the tire size, thanks.

Probably gonna remove the blocks between the axle and the leaf springs. But I want to see how it sits and rides with camper hooked up and my bike loaded in the bed.

This is what I ended up with. Yeah I know it's dirty and I'll wash it after I get the alignment.