TheTXredeye

I did powerstop with my expectations low they’re drilled/slotted w/ carbon fiber ceramic pads I think the z36. Definitely would recommend and going to say these best direct fit factory upgrade you can buy and the quality is A1 I’m rarely impressed. Thorough detailed break-in instructions and I always used brake/carb cleaner to get the protective coating off the rotors powerstop clearly states not to do so and to only use soap (dawn) and water I used a knuckle brush for safe measure I found that interesting. Like 3 months the look like I just installed them. It’s been a year of high demand and abuse there still is not a lip on the edges of the rotors or noticeable wear with 1/4 mile ets/daily speeds exceed 100/35” tires/I brake hard AF apparently/minor off road. To address the Dust I mean I kinda want to say y’all crazy. I’m ocd honestly it isn’t that bad at all way less then factory IMO I expected they would be worst given the pad material it’s the “trade off”.

My 2018 2wd didn’t have this issue although the driver side pretty much rested on the frame clanging none stop while driving drove me insane. But I finally gave it the business dented it with a mallet while it was removed during my dod/cam swap all’s good. My motor mount had 40k original miles I saw SE claiming sagging mount was the excuse in my case it should go without saying but that’s bullshit. For “Potential buyers” they work yes but for me the fitment/finish made me wish I got eBay LT’s probably would’ve been just as if not more happy and saved money. There’s two tiers (all gains equivocal) in the k2xx reasonable priced header for the everyday working individuals and the upper echelon insanely priced i mean you do get flanges/a quality finish/perfect fit but damn $2-3k for headers-y pipe . With difference in cost you could cam or turbo your shitbox. Reuse your old bolts and get delco gasket the included stuff is laughable. Weld them hoes to the y or add flanges I welded vbands the after I these photo were taken. Clamps pssshhhhhhhh whatever.

I’m located in Dallas,TX. As the title states looking to trade my chrome front/rear bumpers and grille for the black painted versions. Text me at 469-888-0122

2018 Silverado Crew cab LT 5.3L 2WD (L83 Gen5) w/ 4L80E. 2.5 leveling kit, TB spacer, Airaid MIT w/ K&N, modded airbox reduction baffle removed, factory muffler/exhaust valve deleted (kept em resonator). Black bow ties, reduced plastic, de-badged, removed door molding... -48,****** total miles -Last change 32,000k (2 full in cycles oil life and 1.25QT of oil consumed in 16k miles ?). Chevy would say that’s totally normal. My gti rabbit with a turbo ate less every 20K miles. -8.25 QT’s 0w-20 STP synthetic dexos approved. I no longer use the dipstick as it is useless and produces metal shaving when used. -STP extended life filter (beware rejection valve ratio and flow parameters isn’t close to spec. With COVID Had me ballIng on a tight budget for a minute and happened to be the only option included in the oil change bundle I got sucked into. For real no lie my oil pressure had never been anything but steady 20-60 idle/heavy load then just over 40 psi cruising. It’s as low 8-10 psi at idle and pegs out 80+ Under load. -NOTE as ^ PF63E is cheaper than most $6 walmart/$3 rockauto the dual stage high volume oil pump will thank you. Thicker weight oils/back pressure (improper flow ratios) will wear the pump out. Wix and Amsoil work well too. -Pulled all 8 spark plugs for safe measure with L83 piston rings lands quietly failing. All had uniform wear and dry free of oil. November I’m goIng to risk it for the brisket cherry picking the L83 to complete DOD/AMF delete, cam/springs etc./ lifters/ pushrods, plug wires/ new plugs, speed engineering long tubes w/ y pipe/O2 extensions and wideband, MRBP mid side exit 3 cat back, drive shaft loops, 160 thermo, 6.2L TB/Manifold. Oil will be drained for build, good forward I plan on frequently changing both within 3-5k it will all be hard driven “cheap insurance”.