Mac-427

Looks like a great product. Price please?

I'm happy with the cover available on the Chevrolet accessory site.

I had Katzkin heated leather seats installed in my 2020 Custom before I picked it up from the dealer. They work as well as any factory heated seats I've owned in previous vehicles.

The GM wheel is covered in real leather.

In addition to an air bag, modern cars and trucks have crushable steering columns as a safety feature to prevent the driver from being "speared" in a head on collision. Hopefully the use of an air chisel has not affected the column's ability to collapse in a wreck. Rather than using a washer to fix the problem, you might want to get the column checked out by a professional.

Please report results as many of us are interested in what happened at the Dealer.

The problem with using a screw extractor is the chance of breaking it. If that happens, drilling will be impossible because screw extractors are made of extremely hard steel and won't drill.

If the bolt was soft enough to round out, cobalt bits might work.

Brand new cobalt bits might work. I'd start small to get a pilot hole and work up to a bit very slightly larger than the threaded portion of the bolt to get the head to pop off. Then you can pull the steering wheel. With the wheel out of the way, you might be able to double nut the exposed threaded portion of the bolt and get it out. I'd use jam nuts because they are thinner. Drilling will probably heat the bolt enough to break the grip of the thread locker. It might even come out quite easily with a vise grip because it will no longer be torqued. Drill slowly and use a small amount of cutting oil on the bits as you drill, but not so much that it slings all over the place. I'd be a little worried about welding inside the truck but that also might work with proper protection. Disclaimer: I honestly don't remember if the steering wheel retention bolt is fully threaded all the way to the head. For this approach to work you'll need enough exposed threads to allow the double nuts to grip.

Did you use a T45 Torx bit? If you did, change to a T50. which is the correct size. Then heat the bolt and bump it with an impact wrench until it starts to move. Don't hammer it, use short bursts. It is very easy to think a T45 will work because it almost fits. Don't ask me how I know. LOL

I just noticed the "Bracket" as the part intended to mount the Assist Handle. On my 2020 Silverado Custom, I took a different approach by installing 8mm Nutserts in the two rearmost mounting holes rather than using the "Bracket." So my handle is mounted using 3 8mm bolts. The mounted handle is very solid using this approach so I can't see changing anything at this point.

The graphics are nice but not absolutely necessary. I was more interested in the steering wheel audio and phone controls because I consider them a safety issue.

I ended up using 8mm Nut Serts on the two unthreaded holes to match the 8mm threaded hole and they worked fine. It's strange because the all the GM parts websites said the lever didn't fit my 2020 Silverado 1500 Custom while it did fit the GMC 1500. My guess is that the Silverado has two unthreaded holes while the GMC has all three threaded. Bottom line: The lever will fit Silverado trucks but you have to use Nut Serts on two of the mounting holes. Accordingly, I bought a kit from Amazon that worked well and will be a great help in future projects. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081GDRTXP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got my GM assist handle today. The part number is 84726114 and it is described as an "F-HANDLE." I checked fit and the holes in my truck bed line up, but two of them are unthreaded. I'm going to hit the hardware store tomorrow but would appreciate knowing what to use on the unthreaded holes to secure the handle.