GETGONE

Hmm, I don't have that issue, although there is a blank screen in the menu if you scroll all the way through it.

It does it to me all the time. Drives me nuts. I want it to stay on the last page I left it on. I haven't found a way to keep it on a page you want it on.

Only thing on the refresh that changed was the dash/electronics and the front sheet metal.

I'd rather not blow up the system trying to switch while under full throttle! I'm just East of Grand Rapids. I run at US 131 Motorsports Park in Martin, MI.

I tried several runs in 2wd and played with air pressure in the tires. It just spun the tires and was even worse because the G80 didn't kick in for a second so you had one wheel spin before the other caught then both spun. I didn't run any in 4 high, only 4 auto. I don't know if the transfer case actually disengaged after launch or not.

They bolt to the CAB of the truck, NOT the frame. If you don't know what the FRAME of a vehicle is, you need to learn about vehicles. This ISN'T a UNIBODY vehicle with NO frame! https://www.rocky-road.com/chevy-trail-boss-rock-sliders.html

That was with me in the truck and about 1/4 tank of gas. Scales showed 5790 pounds. My 02 SS Camaro with a 6 speed manual I've gone 12.96 on street tires with no mods and 12.69 on drag radials.

I'm REALLY doubting that number. I took my truck to the actual drag strip back in August here in Michigan. In auto 4wd the best I was able to get was 14.23 @96.40

The 2022 High Country trucks have a dark navy blue leather interior. I really like it. So tired of black/super dark gray interiors. I was going to do red inserts or highlights or possibly all red leather but found a deal on a set of black with silver diamond stitching on the bolsters so I picked them up. I still have yet to get them installed.

It's NOT the same. I've only found one place that makes true rock sliders that bolt to the frame. Everything else is just a step board that bolts to the cab and with any actual force would damage the board and cab.

Frame points? Do these actually bolt to the frame and not the underside of the cab?

If you're talking about the red tab on the plug. You slide the red tab back, then you can press down on the tab under it to unlock it from where it's plugged into and pull out.

Must be a GMC thing. They cheaped out on the Chevys.

Yes. There's a thread on here somewhere with pictures. Pull the dome light console and the plug for the auto dim mirror is glued to the metal roof. Pull it off and feed through the front of the headliner and plug into the new mirror. I picked up one removed from a truck with the tow package on ebay for $45. Can't believe the only way to get the auto dim is with the tow mirrors.

This is with the running lights on and the hazards on. I'll have to upload the pictures from my phone to my laptop with pictures of just the running lights on and the cargo/reverse lights on.

The T1's have a separate tail light wire harness that plugs into the chassis harness so you can replace the tail light harness if you hack it up. You just need to find the turn signal wire on that harness on each side and cut the wire. Then run that as the positive to your amber lights and run a ground to the chassis or tap into the ground from the tail light harness. I just installed an LED tail gate bar that has red running and brake lights, white backup and amber flowing turn signals. It's hidden enough to not detract from the truck but shows up when the lights are turned on. It has a flat 4 trailer plug on it. Because the T1's don't turn on the trailer lights unless a trailer is plugged in, I used a Putco Blade wire harness that plugs between the left and right tail lights at the chassis plug on each side. It gives you a flat 4 with a separate wire for reverse. The Putco harness was about $60 on ebay. The Putco Blade light is several hundred dollars and has the options with amber lights. I'm cheap and found a light bar that is mounted on an aluminum bar and has chevron shaped lights which I thought was different. The light bar I bought cost me $68 shipped off ebay.

I'm just not a fan of cutting into sheet metal on a new vehicle. I live in Michigan where they salt the hell out of the roads and that would be a perfect spot for rust to start.

You don't have to cut a hole if you use one of the round holes at the top of the bed corners with the rubber plugs. A 19mm round waterproof momentary switch will fit in fine in the existing hole. I have the switch and hopefully enough wire. I just have to find time to run the wire inside to the BCM.

Again, that only applies to the 2500 and 3500's. They say the 1500 diesel works fine with the stock fuel pump/gauge.

How big of hole did you have to cut and what did you T tap into on the truck side?

The 22 refresh and 23 trucks have a new front bowtie. If you have a MultiFlex, I don't believe they have changed. I haven't seen a refresh Chevy with the multiflex in person to compare to mine. I highly doubt they would change the tailgate since the only things on the refresh trucks that changed were the front end components and interior.

They have a few different options of plug in harnesses here: https://www.gen5diy.com/collections/19-20-silverado-products

Apparently you didn't bother to look at the link and read the details: They are a direct fit, there are no modifications needed. With use of the stock sending unit, the trucks analog fuel gauge will read correct and accurate with the TITAN tank.

Not a larger tank but gives you ability to carry an additional 15 gallons safely. https://titanfueltanks.com/products/sidekick-tank/titan-sidekick-15-gal-portable-liquid-tank-5040015

You can't just replace halogen with factory LED. That's what the OP asked. I wasn't aware of the plug in wiring hack job from GEN5DIY. It's cheaper and easier to just to aftermarket LED lights that have the resistors built into the housing or wiring.