GETGONE

What's the back and inside look like?

LOL $168 resistors! Plus add in the $1000 cost for OEM LED taillights! GEN5DIY must be raking in the dough for all the idiots that buy their overpriced wires/relays/resistors.

HP Tuners is using a hacked older chip into the ECU to bypass the encryption on the new ECUs. Those are actual exchanges. Superchips actually found a way to break or by pass the encryption without butchering the original ECU with an older chip. I know Dodge tuners have additional ECUs you can purchase that are tuned or "cracked" to allow you to program them further. I have not seen this yet with Superchips or the other Holley tuner companies.

I knew of the tighter clearances of a new engine, hence the break in period and that material has to go somewhere as it breaks in. Also heat is the enemy of oil and causes it to break down faster. I would expect higher heat to happen in the initial break in period which will degrade the oil. Most modern oil this isn't much of an issue anymore, but still another reason for a shorter first oil change. Is GM using synthetic in all new vehicles? I know there was great debate on this surrounding the LS motors and particular the 2001-2002 Camaro/Firebird LS motors. I don't think I ever saw a definitive answer.

NO they won't work. It is expecting a certain resistance in the BCM and if it doesn't see it it will hyper flash the turn signals and throw bulb out errors. You can get aftermarket lights that are LED and have resistors on them that will work with OEM Halogen light trucks.

Read the details. You have to send in the ORIGINAL ECU. You can't buy a random one and send it to them.

A hefty flat blade screwdriver and a hammer works! I HATE they tell you tighten 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn after it makes contact but the factory ones seem to be tightened with an impact gun! You should never need a tool to get it off if you put it on right and put a film of oil on the gasket as instructed! My factory filter when I took it off:

Dealer is full of crap. I've swapped sensors between vehicles with no issues. Bought a set of used wheels with sensors and paired them just fine with my 08 Avalanche. Unfortunately the T1 trucks changed to 433mhz from 315mhz so you can't swap sensors from older trucks to new ones.

If they didn't put the brake pad sensors in, does it have different wheels and tires? Maybe they didn't put the sensors in either or didn't put the correct frequency ones in. They should pair with the cheap $10-15 generic tool on ebay or amazon.

The cargo lights are triggered via ground, not 12 volt positive. There is another thread here detailing what someone did. You have to run a wire to the BCM pin for the cargo light and to the switch and from the switch to ground. This is on my to-do list but haven't had time to fish and run the wire from the bed to the cab.

That's why I ordered mine with the $390 Safety Confidence package which included the color 4.2 info center, radio controls on the steering wheel, forward collision alert, automatic emergency braking and front pedestrian braking. Too bad it didn't include a leather wrapped wheel. I swapped that in myself. Now if only someone would come up with a way to make the heat function work in the wheel!

I posted it in the previous post.

Throwing my write-up from another thread here to help others: I added the GM light kit for my multi-flex tailgate as well as swapped the lights to brighter aftermarket LED units. I added some 2"x2" LED cubes I had purchased for my Avalanche but never used. The current draw tripped the BCM and they would blink 3 times then go off. I also hooked the cube lights up to the reverse signal so they come on in reverse and at night when the approach lights turn on when you unlock the truck or lock it and leave. I had added a Curt 5th wheel wiring harness expecting I could get my signals from there for what I was originally wanting to do. I found on here that only the 12V+ wire has signal at all times. I pulled the tail light and looked at the wiring. I have LED bed lights in the corners from factory. I tapped that wire on the passenger side(or could use drivers side) and ran that to the 86 wire on a waterproof relay. I added a 10 amp 1000 volt diode to it so current can't back feed to the bed light circuit. I also tapped the reverse light on the same side, added another 10 amp 1000 volt diode here so current can't back feed the circuit and added it to the 86 wire. There is a harness that plugs in under the bed and connects to the tail lights. I purchased a new harness to keep as a spare in case I ever had electrical issues that required me to take it to the dealer. I can unplug everything I added and return it to stock. 30 wire I connected to the 12V of the Curt 5th wheel harness I added. This plugs in via T to the factory trailer plug. I have the actual 7 wire plug running into the blank in the passenger bed side where the 120V outlet would be if I had that option. 85 wire can be tapped into the trailer harness ground wire or find a suitable ground wire elsewhere on the chassis or trail light harness. 87 connects to your additional lights. I didn't add a fuse to mine since I'm using the 12V+ from the trailer harness and it is already fused. 87a is NOT used and can be removed or taped off. I heat shrunk/electrical taped up connections and then zip tied the relay to the Curt 5th wheel harness along the tail panel of the bed. For those not wanting to read it all: Waterproof relay 30 wire - 12V+ from trailer wire circuit 85 wire - 12V- ground to trailer wire ground, taillight ground, or other suitable chassis ground 86 wire - 12V+ input from LED bed lights and/or reverse lights, using a 10 amp 1000 volt diode on each input wire to prevent back feeding trigger circuit 87 wire - 12V+ to your additional lights 87a wire - NOT used and can be removed from relay harness or taped off. Not all relays have this pin/wire

I found an overlay option for you on ebay if you want to wait for them to come from China. https://www.ebay.com/itm/115510757137 https://www.ebay.com/itm/185600806710

You WILL need a relay. Adding any additional load on the factory lighting causes it to overload the circuit and the lights blink 3 times and go off. I'm using 10amp 1000 volt diodes. I have lights I mounted to my hitch and have them wired to a relay with the trigger coming from the reverse lights and also the cargo lights. You can't turn on your cargo lights while driving. I think Boost or someone sells a kit to over ride this function.

There is also the amount a filter can hold before it can no longer hold any more and the oil will just go through the bypass in the filter and not get filtered at all. I use Purolator PureOne filters and found this information about them: It filters 99.9 percent @ 20 microns. PureONE provides the highest Micronic filtration efficiency in the aftermarket. The majority of PureONE filter sizes achieve a maximum holding capacity of 3 –13 grams of microscopic contaminants (13 grams is equal to 31 standard size paper clips) including dirt and metal shavings

It's normal. There's a bunch of other new stuff in the T1 platform the older trucks didn't have. I was concerned when I first got mine but then I read the owners manual and it mentions the various things that still run after the truck is shut off. The HVAC system closes itself up and I believe the radiator shutters also cycle. I know every time I open a door after it's sat it starts making noises.

I like to do a short first oil change myself. I wasn't able to get it changed in the truck till 1000 miles. On my 02 Camaro SS, I changed it after the 500 mile break in then took it to the drag strip! My first new vehicle was a 2000 S10 Xtreme with the 4.3 V6. I used the free oil change the dealer gave at the first 3000 miles. I was pissed when I did the next oil change myself and saw they put the 4 cylinder filter on instead of the larger one for the V6! The Silverado is only my third new vehicle. All the used vehicles I buy I usually change the oil within 1000 miles of buying it because even if they have a time/date/mileage of when it was changed, I have no idea what brand oil was used or filter until I get under there to change it. Like others have said around here, oil and filters are cheap, engines are not.

Actually I looked last night and the programmer and that's $300 WITHOUT programming. You have to buy programming that cost ANOTHER $300! I thought it was originally $300 for the programmer and programming. It does give you the option to get rid of the speed limiter which would be a good deal.

Actually it's because most truck customers live in rural areas and the long antenna is better for bringing in distant radio stations. There was an article I read somewhere a while back with a GM engineer about this.

They're called Blows stereos for a reason! On my base radio in my 21 Custom I replaced the dash speakers with some ribbon tweeters I had laying around and added a bass blocking capacitor and it made a HUGE difference in bringing up the sound stage. I still think it has some mid range missing. I have a pair of MB Quart Reference 6 1/2's to put in the front doors. Depending how they sound I may put them in the back and order the 6x9 version for the fronts or maybe go with the 6x9 component set and replace the ribbon tweeters in the dash with the component titanium tweeters.

Price of LED bulbs? What did you buy? I paid like $35-$40 a pair for LASFIT highs and lows which are highly rated. That's a LOT of bulb replacements for the cost of a $350 harness! I think WAMS was offering a plug in module to reprogram the BCM to use running lights vs lows for DRL's and I'm pretty sure it was less than that harness! Plus you had the option of adding or changing other options in the BCM.

It's NOT just a gun rack. Take out the dividers and it's an under-seat storage unit. It has the ABILITY to store guns out of site there, but that's NOT it's only purpose. I have mine full of recovery gear, towing stuff and tools.

And now for the complaint threads about how bad the new truck is.

Maybe if it was $35 and not $350 for the part!!!!