GETGONE

When I scanned my RPO codes I don't have K47 listed, but as part of the Z71 package on the window sticker it states "heavy duty air filter". It's the same as all engines when I looked at the K&N site for fitment of the drop in filter, from the 2.7 to the 6.2.

I've seen halogen to LED resistor harnesses on ebay for pretty cheap. Those should fix your issue. Usually a hyperflash is caused by not seeing ENOUGH resistance. I'm guessing it sees too much resistance and thinks it's shorted out and is alerting via the hyperflash.

If it's the same as what the Z71's come with, it's a layer of rough polyester fiber about 3/4" thick glued to the bottom of the normal paper filter.

How did you change Fog Light bulbs when they are non serviceable assembly?

The spacer lift won't change ride quality. It might be close with only a 1.5" lift. Most likely you'll have to remove the metal bracket behind the front fender well and zip tie the liner back. Since the AT4X doesn't have mud flaps, you shouldn't have to trim anything there. Depending on the tire you run and if you change wheels, you might need more negative offset wheels or spacers to clear the upper A arms.

22 was the first year of the ZR2. I have a 21 Custom TB so the ZR2 wasn't even announced when I ordered mine. I already have the 6.2 with the 10 speed. The DSSV shocks would make it equal and not have all the future problem laden electronic dash. I have thought about trading mine for a ZR2 but the price difference is not worth the extra $25K+ I'd have to spend to step up to a ZR2.

I have a Rough Country for mine. I only ran it for a couple days when I had 275/65/20's on. I'll be putting 35's on once the snow's gone in Michigan and I can get the lift installed. I'll put it back in place then. It's easy to use, you plug it into your computer and input stock tire size and new tire size and save. It then plugs in between one of the BCM plugs and the module tucks behind the drivers side kick panel.

Another thing to consider with the GM lift is they recalibrate the electric steering and collision detection system if you have one. They won't do that with any non GM lift. I believe the GM kit also has a warranty of it's own on the parts.

I still think they're garbage material. They hold mud and salt and cause anything touching it to eventually rust because the salt never comes out.

I've been looking at the Belltech stuff myself. They've been around since the 80's in the lowered truck scene and have been the go-to brand for quality parts.

GM sells the complete kit with everything you need.

Is it a 22 LTD or Refresh? They totally changed the electrical architecture on the refresh. If the wheel is from an older truck it might not work. If you had them originally, swap the buttons over from your original wheel.

Glad I spent the extra money for the aluminum version for mine. Looks great and functions great! Only gripe is the clamping that stops it anywhere on the track doesn't hold it in place if anything bumps it. It's easy to slide if you have anything heavy that rests against it. I even tightened the pins up and it still doesn't clamp as hard as I'd like. When closed it's great because there's a notch the clamp goes into and holds it shut. No issues with the tailgate opening, even with the Multiflex tailgate.

No

Do you have a console with USB connection? If not, this should work for you to replace the existing USB module. EBAY Link

What's the MSRP? I can't find anything searching that part number.

WTF???? WHY would they steal that? It's bolted on from the underside. There's a hole in the roof and inside there's a bolt and a square "washer" that applies pressure to hold it in place. There are a few different kinds of antennas. Some have a single cable and some have 2. I replaced my black textured one with a factory color matched one from a Tahoe. To remove it, you have to remove the A pillar trim. The connector for the antenna is about half way up the pillar. I'd start with disconnecting it there as whatever was yanked off is probably shorting out causing the havoc with the truck. You then take out the drivers side sun visor and clip that holds the end up. You can pull the rubber weatherstripping around the top corner of the door and pull down on the headliner. You could remove the center roof console if you want more room to work since I'm sure the roof is damaged. I was able to swap mine without removing the roof console. I only removed the A pillar trim and sun visor. Post pictures of the damage. I want to see what the heck they did to get it off.

Just saw this article on GM Authority. Would be quite interesting to see it in reality: https://gmauthority.com/blog/2023/02/gm-files-patent-for-length-extending-pickup-truck-box/

The WT and Custom still have the old dash and the 7" IOR radio so I would think you could still do the steering wheel and cluster swap. I don't know if the other wiring architecture is still the old style. On my 21 Custom Trail Boss I ordered the safety confidence package for $390 that included the steering wheel controls and the color display in the cluster.

They have add a leafs for the 19-22 Silverados. https://www.ebay.com/itm/253794306418

I thought UCAs were the same across the trucks. I didn't notice anything different or special about the ZR2 ones.

It was only $300 more to go with the standard bed when I ordered mine. I was going to go with it, but the dealer said it would delay getting it built because they batched them together when they built them. I don't know if the Indiana plant built that configuration or if it was only the Mexico plant. I opted out of it since I have a 6x12 enclosed cargo trailer if I need to haul really large items that won't fit in the short bed. The parking spots in WA must be longer than here in MI. My truck with the short bed just fits in most parking spots and most of the time my bumper is hanging out.

It's just not properly fit around that part. You can see where it overlaps the plastic around the shifter. It should continue along the top to go under the lip of the dash. Put the tilt all the way down and you should have some room to work it back into place.

Power seat was an option on 22 Custom LTD. That was the one option I wanted on my 21 but you could only get it if you went to the LT trim. I bought a power seat from a late model salvage yard, but haven't gotten my leather seat covers on yet to get it installed.

I was thinking of posting a thread on this yesterday. I'm looking for something more than just a reader. I want something that can control and test functions from the tool, like what a shop would use. I'd also like something that can read BCM codes as none of my scanners can do. The dealer said my truck had a bunch of BCM codes, but I don't know what they were. I have a feeling it was from when I tried to install a 3rd party extended range remote starter. Some of what I found on ebay were $3K or more! I'm hoping there's a cheaper alternative.