GETGONE

Or you just flick the headlight switch to off when you start it and it turns off the DRLs and auto headlights.

The credit is a "we're sorry" deal. You don't pay for the retrofit. GM will notify you when they have the parts to install. The lower trim level trucks are the ones they're keeping the parts out of. All the Denali's and AT4X's have all their parts. GMC is now even out of parts for the multi pro tailgates! I thought that was their selling point was it was standard on all GMC's but there's a couple at my local dealer that are Elevation trim and have a credit for no Multi Pro tailgate, which CAN'T be retrofitted later!

Great...more for you to keep bitching about.....

The only thing I thought of is if your truck is a diesel. I know the DEF tank is on the driver side and I saw something about different brackets for the diesel.

There isn't much more room between the lid and the seat bottom, but you have to have it below or level with the top lip for the lids to snap on. I had just enough stuff that it was a problem to keep the lid snapped down so I wound up taking them off. I think the DU-HA is slightly larger as it comes up further towards the front edge of the seat bottom and it goes all the way to the bottom of the seat bottom. I saw the DU-HA on ebay after I bought my truck and probably would have went with that instead, but I thought the lid was a good idea at the time.

I have the GM accessories one with the 2 piece lid. It was part of the rear seat storage package on my Custom Trail Boss. It's solid so it doesn't sag or bow. I pulled out the dividers/gun holders and I have so much stuff in it, I had to take the lids off as well so the seat bottom acts as the lid now. If you have the full floor OEM liners, you will need to trim it so the box sits on the floor. The mat already has the cut lines on the bottom of it where it needs to be cut so you don't have to guess or try to measure. It's held in place by the jack and the lug wrench hold downs so it's not going anywhere. You can put a padlock on the compartment lids on each side, but again, it's just plastic so it wouldn't take much to cut the lock off. I love it and have all my recovery gear stuffed in there. Air compressor, trailer hitch, tool bag, jumper cables, tie downs, tow rope, shackles, 2 folding shovels, sun shade. I'm sure there's other crap I've stuffed in there I'm forgetting!

No idea why they say not compatible unless it's because GM didn't bother to go back and bolt them on to older trucks. The cabs are the same for the T1's and all the threaded inserts are already in the cab floor. You just have to pop the plastic plugs off the ones you need to use and thread the bolts into them to bolt the brackets up. I wanted a set of those steps until I saw the price! I went with a $260 set that tuck up high but have drop down bars to protect the body. They're aluminum so they're light as well.

If you only have a 2" lift on a stock SIlverado, you don't need a diff drop. The Trail Boss lift is 2" and GM doesn't do anything with the diff. Lots of people do another 2" on top of the Trail Boss lift with no issues that I have seen. When you get into the 6"+ lifts then you need to consider that. The only thing that the Trail Boss lift has vs a standard Silverado is different front axles that are supposed to be better for the higher angle with the lift.

Depending on the undercoating or bedliner it may void GM's rust through warranty. I was warned of that when I declined their "protection package" and said I had my own protection I was going to spray on. I'm using PB Blaster surface shield. I put the Husky liners on mine shortly after I got it. They fit fine. They were a little tricky to get into place above the wheel well lip but fit fine and I had all the fasteners needed when I got mine. I HATE the factory felt crap and would love to replace the fronts with plastic if I could find it. The felt holds salt and dirt in and I've only driven it one winter so far!

Rough Country sells a module that plugs in between the stock wiring and BCM. You hook it to your computer before installing and input stock size and new tire size and it adjusts for the difference. It can be unplugged and removed in a couple minutes if you need to take it in for service and are worried about it causing warranty issues.

I wish it worked with the inner gate down. I guess it's to prevent you from dropping the gate and damaging it with the inner gate down. It's annoying to close the inner gate, open the main gate, then open the inner gate again. Just work when I push the dang buttons!

I wouldn't know since I chopped it off the 3rd day I owned it!

GM sells replacement leaf springs if you are adding the GM 2" lift kit to a truck with the composite leafs. I don't know of any aftermarket companies making replacement leaf springs. It would probably be most cost effective to get some from a junk yard that specializes in late model vehicles.

Do they shake normally or extended? Looks like Boost Auto is still working on their tow mirror kits for the 2019+ trucks. https://boostautoparts.com/products/2020

Airbag just unbolts so it's way easier than it was to remove the airbag on my 08 Avalanche. Taking it slow it might take 2 hours at most to replace.

Yes it will fail. Saw a video on Youtube from Lonestar Hawaiian who went to get his emissions checked and had his Pulsar installed and the truck failed. I believe it even said in the Pulsar manual to remove it if you have to go for service or emissions test. It blocks some communication to the factory computer and causes things to fail.

You have to unhook the battery and let it sit for a few minutes for any remaining juice in the system to drain. You have to remove the airbag and the entire steering wheel to replace the trim. It's not hard to do, it's just time consuming. I bought a leather wrapped wheel from a high country with the bronze trim for my custom. I had the silver trim on the wheel, so I had to pull it apart to put the silver trim on.

It was touted for the 2022 LTD trucks so I assumed it would be there for the refresh trucks. Did you look at the owners manual to see if it mentions it?

Red tab slides back towards the wires, THEN you push down on it and pull on the connector to disconnect.

22's shouldn't need the tailgate fix as you can hold the midgate button for 3 or 5 seconds to lock it and do the same to unlock it so it doesn't accidentally get dropped when you have a hitch in.

It's on the bottom of the PASSENGER side mirror.

The temperature sensor is in the bottom of the passenger side mirror. If you're parking in the sun it's going to read higher or if it's in the shade it might be closer to actual. Once you start moving then air moves over it and adjust accordingly. All past temperature sensors I've ever seen in factory installed vehicles are in the grill area in front of the radiator. I'm not sure why they moved it to the outside mirror on these trucks.

The radio may still be in "demo" mode. There's numerous threads on here about issues with the sound settings resetting after shutting the truck off. I had the same issue. In the radio menu there is a factory reset or reset to defaults (can't remember which wording it is) that should fix this issue.

I don't know about reward points but I stopped to the local GMC dealer Saturday since they have their new building and lot open now. The pricing for the 3 year Onstar is NOT the same across models. On a Denali it was $905 but on an SLT Plus it was $1500 for the same 3 year Onstar package! What the heck????

It's the trigger wire for the relay. It's the wire used in the auto on fogs mod that you put a Diode between that wire and the fog light trigger wire. Tapping that for an input signal on a relay is what he is looking to do and it is fine in this case. 12V+ would be pulled from the fuse box.