GMMediumDutyMQ

Got the note, but pissed on the (lack of) coverage. I've had truck from Nov '14 and put on a lot of mileage. 72k was a looooong time ago, so won't be covered. Glad to see DIY replacement is theoretically simple/ cheap enough.

Interesting. Any of these symptoms exist beforehand?

Based on this thread I'd say no? What issues are you having?

Writing from the dealer waiting room as I have this done right now. I've thankfully not had this happen to me in person (knock on wood), but since the notice arrived Saturday and facing a week-long road trip starting tomorrow, figured I may as well have it tackled...

Yeah, well aware. Only studied this forum and the GM service instructions for weeks before tackling it. It's tricky not for a dearth of information -- it's tricky because the process itself is a PITA. Working blind, essentially, and it's far less straightforward than the GMT-900s were.

The second panel isn't under the kick panel (i.e. immediately left of pedals), but under the driver's sill (i.e. lower edge of door opening). My '14 SLE had both the sill panel and the second plastic panel below it, the latter primarily serving as a shield for the cab wiring harness. Should not be trim-dependent.

Look at what I have listed as my driven vehicle. Yes, this clockspring is for a 2014. You can try the older part numbers, but you'll see it redirects in EPC to 23381964. As for what was tricky - everything. Airbag removal is a PITA. SRS wiring loom is also tucked WAY up into dashboard, which itself is not as accessible as older vehicles were, even after you remove a host of panels and the gauge cluster. No connector for the heated circuit present in my SLE, meaning I had to cut and splice, and run an ATR fuse tap (itself somewhat tricky to come by) from the DS fuse block. Lots of work, and I'm not that impressed with the heat coming out of it, if I'm honest. Maybe I will be come winter...

Searching eBay or parts sites are the best way to give you that quote. Basically, whatever it'll cost you to get a heated wheel plus the clockspring, which is now part #23381964. I think the wheel ran me about $200; the clockspring roughly $60 shipped. While the wheel can be second hand, make sure to buy the clockspring new. Will stress that this proved to be a bit trickier to execute than I anticipated.

I envy you -- staring up from the green plug by BCM, and am not finding it whatsoever. Would have thought my truck would have had the plug -- there was a 7.5 amp fuse in the slot for heated steering wheel from the factory, would have assumed the loom was up there somewhere. Anyone have a photo of what the connector looks like? Would appreciate the guidance...

Yeah. I don't think the clocksprings show up in the EPC under steering any longer -- only electrical/ air bag. Should be fine -- I have it in hand and it seems to be just what we need. Will keep you posted after this weekend.

Lemme guess -- you found part number 23381964? I have a '14, and while there was originally a different part number for the heated clockspring, this one replaced it in late '15 or sometime this year. Or so the GM EPC tells me. I paid roughly $55 shipped for mine, and while I have yet to do the heated swap (hopefully this weekend), the part looks EXACTLY like what everyone else has used. Should work fine.

There IS NO factory OEM kit for this. And there's no easy way to retrofit the MY16 parts to a MY14-15 truck that doesn't have the option. Some here are apparently hell-bent on trying, but the long and short of it is -- even if you did get all the gate parts and pigtail, you'd still have to repin and rewire half of the main body harness. It's way, way more work and way, WAY more cost to try and do it, and the resulting product won't feel any more or less OEM. It also won't have the warranty that Pop and Lock offers on its kit, for what it's worth. TL;DR -- just buy the Pop & Lock kit. I assure you, if you take your time and do things patiently, you will have no trouble installing it. There are plenty of resources both on this forum and on YouTube that clearly show how straightforward it is to install. And yes, splicing/soldering the Pop & Lock harness to the lock circuit is ideal, but even just using the included T-taps properly (i.e. using pliers to apply sufficient force to fully seat/ lock the splice part of the connector instead of trying to do it by hand) works fine. That's what I did on my truck and I've had zero issues in the year-plus it's been on the truck.

Yeah, I've seen that, but it's not exactly forthcoming with helpful install information other than "I gave someone $1000 to do this."

Would potentially be interested in your plans or buying a second mount if you decide to go the fab route...

Been eyeing the RC mount as I'd like a covert-mount winch as well -- even though I have a K2. Have to wonder exactly how different the front frame is between a GMT900 and a K2xx. I know the front suspension's pretty much the same...what else is shared?

I just did my 5100s this weekend. I've had an older version of the OTC StrutTamer -- #6580, a "non-extreme" model -- mounted in my garage for a few years. It'll work, but you REALLY need to use it in conjunction with #6583, a "bridge" accessory that spans the top of the strut mount. Tried it without and didn't have enough leverage on the stock spring. I then did it with the bridge -- as GM's OEM service instructions even show -- and it worked perfectly. Suspect it's probably the same with the Extreme. In any case, the bridge is only $50...might as well have it on hand when tackling it.

After shelling out for the BFG A/T KO2s a few weeks back, I pulled the trigger on a set of Bilstein 5100s, especially after the tire shop pointed out a few of my OEM units in dire need of replacement after 62,000 miles. Tackled the install yesterday. Took about roughly 3-4 hours. Probably could have shaved some time using air tools, but oh well. Used an OTC wall-mount spring compressor for the front struts, and I'm glad I did -- even with a "bridge" to compress the upper spring seat, it took a lot of muscle to compress things enough to get the strut out. I went with the first ring up from stock ride height, which adds about .75" to the front ride height. To me, this is enough reduction of the stock rake (I no longer drag the air dam on curbs/ parking berms). Also, it's probably about as tall as you'd want to go installation wise without knocking out an UCA ball joint in addition to the sway bar link. Taller you go, the more room you need... Taking it in for an alignment tomorrow morning. Thus far, I like the ride -- firmer than before, but better dampened.

Finally biting the bullet and getting KO2s installed on my truck after milking the OEM grabbers for about 63k miles. Curious if you all would advise I have these tires road force balanced as opposed to normal spin balancing based on your experience? Thanks, -Evan

Funny -- we got socked with 14" of it here in Howell, and wasn't thrilled with the stock General 255/55 R17s (quel suprise, right?) when I made a run to pick up a snowblower belt this afternoon. Looking enviously at my wife's FJ with stock A-T KOs, so starting to research getting a set of KO2s for the Sierra...

You can see the basic mount base (i.e. non-phone specific) at Panavise's site. http://www.panavise.com/pdf_indash/751101614.pdf The Brodit mount then attached to this with four bolts/nuts. No drilling required. http://www.proclipusa.com/phone-holders/device/sony/xperia-z3-not-for-the-z3v-verizon/charging-holder-with-tilt-swivel-for-hard-wired-installation-513673-19755.cmsv?p_leftorright=0 I can rotate the phone cradle to view things in "landscape" view if I want (I left a long enough lead and ziptied it to the base bracket to ensure this remains the case), but I usually keep it in landscape. But as for lower down the IP? Probably not by much, given where Panavise's base mount attaches. I'm not sure you'd really want to go much lower, for that matter -- any lower and you'd be looking towards your knees. This is within line-of-sight -- another reason I wanted to do this -- and though this vantage point may not suggest it, it doesn't obscure forward vision. And I don't mind looking at charging cables, but I do mind them getting in the way of other things in the center console or the occasional passenger... :-)

Finally finished installing the charging cradle for my Sony Z3 Compact phone. This phone has a magnetic charging connector on its side, and Brodit's cradle neatly uses this to charge while on the go. I attached it to Panavise's bracket that's made for the K2, which attaches to one of the OEM bolts in the IP. Keeps my phone charged without a dedicated charging cable, and keeps it secure -- no more stashing it awkwardly in a cupholder. Ran the cables behind the I05 screen, behind the glovebox, and to the passenger side fuse block, where I used an MTR fuse tap from eBay to feed power. Works great, since I can just simply slide the phone in and out as needed, but I plan on also adding some NFC tags to the holder or dash to allow me to quickly turn BT on/off or load certain apps (i.e. Waze) when jumping in and out of the truck. Also started installing a second pair of OEM LED bed lights. Have the passenger side one mounted and cables run; will probably slowly get to the driver's side lamp and tap into wiring as time allows this week.

Maybe there was for previous generations, but nothing is showing as an RPO or SEO for the present truck. I don't know that I've ever seen one. Still seems odd your cap isn't designed to work around the stock lamp. Best of luck...

Do it. Finished it up the other day, and it's so worth the $90-100. "Hardest" part was running the wire along the truck, crawling in and out constantly. I'm not usually big on the scotchlocks, but got them to work with a firm squeeze from pliers and then wrapped in duct tape. Even managed to to get them tucked away and not prevent the covers from reinstalling properly.

Finally got my Pop-N-Lock tailgate lock installed. Not sure why I put it off for so long -- isn't hard to install, and it's such a nice feature to have. Great to lock up the entire truck from afar, even by way of the OnStar app. Also, I managed to install a Panavise IP mount for a new charging cradle for my smartphone...nice to just slide it right in and have it start charging, and have apps/ Waze/ etc. at hand. I have it temporarily wired up via a 12V adapter plug, but will be hard-wiring it in time, since I now have ATR fuse taps and know where the factory IP ground points are. Pics to come...

God, I really hope they make that fix universal...I'm about to be through my warranty and this is the LONE complaint I have with my truck.