GMMediumDutyMQ

Got the note, but pissed on the (lack of) coverage. I've had truck from Nov '14 and put on a lot of mileage. 72k was a looooong time ago, so won't be covered. Glad to see DIY replacement is theoretically simple/ cheap enough.

Interesting. Any of these symptoms exist beforehand?

Based on this thread I'd say no? What issues are you having?

Writing from the dealer waiting room as I have this done right now. I've thankfully not had this happen to me in person (knock on wood), but since the notice arrived Saturday and facing a week-long road trip starting tomorrow, figured I may as well have it tackled...

Yeah, well aware. Only studied this forum and the GM service instructions for weeks before tackling it. It's tricky not for a dearth of information -- it's tricky because the process itself is a PITA. Working blind, essentially, and it's far less straightforward than the GMT-900s were.

The second panel isn't under the kick panel (i.e. immediately left of pedals), but under the driver's sill (i.e. lower edge of door opening). My '14 SLE had both the sill panel and the second plastic panel below it, the latter primarily serving as a shield for the cab wiring harness. Should not be trim-dependent.

Look at what I have listed as my driven vehicle. Yes, this clockspring is for a 2014. You can try the older part numbers, but you'll see it redirects in EPC to 23381964. As for what was tricky - everything. Airbag removal is a PITA. SRS wiring loom is also tucked WAY up into dashboard, which itself is not as accessible as older vehicles were, even after you remove a host of panels and the gauge cluster. No connector for the heated circuit present in my SLE, meaning I had to cut and splice, and run an ATR fuse tap (itself somewhat tricky to come by) from the DS fuse block. Lots of work, and I'm not that impressed with the heat coming out of it, if I'm honest. Maybe I will be come winter...

Searching eBay or parts sites are the best way to give you that quote. Basically, whatever it'll cost you to get a heated wheel plus the clockspring, which is now part #23381964. I think the wheel ran me about $200; the clockspring roughly $60 shipped. While the wheel can be second hand, make sure to buy the clockspring new. Will stress that this proved to be a bit trickier to execute than I anticipated.

I envy you -- staring up from the green plug by BCM, and am not finding it whatsoever. Would have thought my truck would have had the plug -- there was a 7.5 amp fuse in the slot for heated steering wheel from the factory, would have assumed the loom was up there somewhere. Anyone have a photo of what the connector looks like? Would appreciate the guidance...

Yeah. I don't think the clocksprings show up in the EPC under steering any longer -- only electrical/ air bag. Should be fine -- I have it in hand and it seems to be just what we need. Will keep you posted after this weekend.

Lemme guess -- you found part number 23381964? I have a '14, and while there was originally a different part number for the heated clockspring, this one replaced it in late '15 or sometime this year. Or so the GM EPC tells me. I paid roughly $55 shipped for mine, and while I have yet to do the heated swap (hopefully this weekend), the part looks EXACTLY like what everyone else has used. Should work fine.

There IS NO factory OEM kit for this. And there's no easy way to retrofit the MY16 parts to a MY14-15 truck that doesn't have the option. Some here are apparently hell-bent on trying, but the long and short of it is -- even if you did get all the gate parts and pigtail, you'd still have to repin and rewire half of the main body harness. It's way, way more work and way, WAY more cost to try and do it, and the resulting product won't feel any more or less OEM. It also won't have the warranty that Pop and Lock offers on its kit, for what it's worth. TL;DR -- just buy the Pop & Lock kit. I assure you, if you take your time and do things patiently, you will have no trouble installing it. There are plenty of resources both on this forum and on YouTube that clearly show how straightforward it is to install. And yes, splicing/soldering the Pop & Lock harness to the lock circuit is ideal, but even just using the included T-taps properly (i.e. using pliers to apply sufficient force to fully seat/ lock the splice part of the connector instead of trying to do it by hand) works fine. That's what I did on my truck and I've had zero issues in the year-plus it's been on the truck.

Yeah, I've seen that, but it's not exactly forthcoming with helpful install information other than "I gave someone $1000 to do this."

Would potentially be interested in your plans or buying a second mount if you decide to go the fab route...

Been eyeing the RC mount as I'd like a covert-mount winch as well -- even though I have a K2. Have to wonder exactly how different the front frame is between a GMT900 and a K2xx. I know the front suspension's pretty much the same...what else is shared?