MrMagloo

Unfortunately, GM always forces you to buy the full set or at the best, both sides of the front or rear. On a number of vehicles I've tried to just buy the drivers mat as that gets the most wear. I've never been able to just get one. I just keep an eye on eBay to hope for a nice discount.

In addition to losing the PSL, you also gain getting the nag screens too. Extremely annoying. Unfortunately, all of the manufacturers across all industries are trying to stranglehold people into monthly service fees of some sort.

spring-thing.com

Well, it happened again - And to put aside the infrequent use thought - I drive this truck 30-50 miles every day. Got home Monday evening, parked normally, and went out on Tuesday the next day and it just turned over one revolution, then the entire dash started blinking on and off. I put the 15a automatic charger on 10 hours ago and it's still charging. This is the second time now 5 months. Very irritating.

I have to admit that I'm pretty amazed with the economy of this 3.0L LZO, even with the Max Tow 3.73's. And it's pretty quick too. Not unusual at all seeing 30+ MPG averages on the highway, which is remarkable.

For the size of it, I think it does pretty good. Isn't a ground shaker, but fills the lows pretty well for a stocker.

Same here. I also get it often in the 1st to 2nd gear shift. While investigating, I found my leaf spring bolts on both sides and the shock bolts were loose. Tightened those to spec and the feel firmed up quite a bit but still get that clunk. I have wondered if it's the tailgate but there doesn't seem to be any stoppers or way to adjust. Not sure what else to check.

Just wanted to chime in and say that was a great run down Jethro. When I was buying my new RST, I was originally looking at a one of the canister covers. My buddy had one, and liked it alot, so I was initially leaning that way. But when I saw the bed loss on a short bed, and of course the price tag, I opted for the Revolver X4. Yes, the fact that you cannot open part way is a fact, but hasn't really been an issue. I am a little concerned about how that vinyl layer is going to look in a few years of sitting in the sun, but so far it looks great. Overall, for the price, if bed space is important, it's a real good option, fwiw.

Fwiw, mine can with very high tire pressures as well. I'm sure there is a reason, but you'd think the dealers would adjust them appropriately before delivery.

Sorry to highjack, but on a 2023 RST with just the Hitch Cam, is it possible just to add the front camera? Is there an open port on the VPM? Or any other easy options? Don't really need the side mirror cameras, just the front. Thanks!

Take pics and take notes. I'm wondering myself what's involved in changing those dash speakers. TIA !!

To add to the last post, does anyone have the PN for the harness? Sounds like my 2023 doesn't have the harness tucked up in the headliner, so I'll need to source that too. Thanks!

Have you tried different sources? I'm not saying this is the best Bose system I've ever heard, but I think it's plenty acceptable for stock. One of the big problems with trying to get an unbiased opinion is the fact you cannot play a reference CD. To get around this, find a couple of good sounding CD's and rip them to FLAC on your PC to a USB stick. Then try to play that. It's kind of hard to form a fair opinion using XM or Spotify due the all of the compression, and low bitrate. Also, I find a small bump on the EQ for Bass and Treble, essentially cutting the Mid's helps. Lastly, first post, but it's helpful to the others when you don't use crazy font formatting on your posts.

Well, after torquing everything to spec, it does feel much more planted and solid. The 1st to 2nd shift clunk/lurch is gone. However, now I can hear the Multi-Gate tailgate making some sounds when backing off a curb. Doesn't seem to be any kind of bumper stops to adjust. Has anyone found a solution for noisy tailgates? Not sure if adjusting the latches will have enough adjust-ability to to effect much.

Dupe:

Oh gosh, I hate to say Mexico. I'm dreading the thought of double-checking every frigging fastener on this thing before towing anything substantial.

Well fwiw, I found the leaf spring U-Bolts and the Shock nuts loose. Solved about 80% of the issue. The U-Bolt nuts were ridiculously loose. Probably took 2 full turns of each to get into spec.

I just got over 6,000 miles and I'm noting a couple of things in the rear. Firstly, off the line it's fine, but that 1st to 2nd shift comes with a clunk and slight lurch. 2nd to 3rd and all others seem fine. Seems like something back there isn't tight or solid. Which brings me to the next thing that seems to getting worse, when backing out of my driveway, coming off the curb, I get some creaking. I thought at first the spare tire was loose, but that seems solid. I cannot pinpoint it as when I crawl under there, everything seems solid? I thought I read some others mentioning this, but I cannot seem to find the thread? Any ideas?

I thought I read someone had done it, but perhaps they made some changes of some sort to allow it? I do think I recall something about removing the mudflap?

What about the ZR2 Fender Flares without the Flat?

Mirror Tap

x2 - I always put the deposit on my best dividend CC. Then when closing, I'll put as much as I can again. For the 2023 RST, I was able to $5K each, for a total of $10K which was a healthy reward. No doubt this is a dealer by dealer thing, but if you break it out between doing the max for the deposit and then another during the close, sometimes you can get double.

I'm just replying because you asked, but I'm not a fan of any of these. Out of curiosity, have you looked at any of the Chevy Accessory Decals? I wouldn't do it, but the Bedside Decal Part No.: 84425973 would certainly fill in some of the empty space and looks OK.

Thanks - I think we have a pretty good understanding on how the feature is supposed to work. No doubt that with incandescent lights, in my experience, they mostly worked fine with earlier renditions. However, with the proliferation of far more efficient and quicker LEDs, unfortunately, this causes problems as outlined earlier. I mean, if you have a parked trailer connected to your truck in a safe environment, there would be no need to enable the anti-theft feature in the first place. So naturally, you only need to enable it for the less safe areas, and it is certainly not doing you any favors by drawing considerably more attention to the trailer by flashing all night long. It's just totally counter-intuitive. Most thefts are opportunistic so waving a banner and saying here I am is not helpful. GM needs to rethink the electronics on this unit. We know that the PCM and BCM have the flexibility to detect very minute levels and variances in voltages they monitor with various sensors, so they clearly have the capability to use a lower pulse voltage, that is enough to confirm continuity, but too low to fire the lights. I think the point is, GM has largely allowed this tech to flap in the wind, while not keeping up with the innovation in the trailer OEM change to LEDs, which is interesting as they themselves have been chasing this incandescent to LED migration.

Well, maybe not? Perhaps one of the friendly GM Support folks that drift around the forum can take this up?