MrMagloo

I was very happy when the temps got down in the teens. I think it works great as is. When it gets comfortable in the truck I turn them off.

I actually when thought this drill as well. I was also hearing strange sounds and noticed some sloppiness. I found my leaf spring and shock bolts very loose. After tightening them up, it was a whole different truck. I mentioned it to the dealer, and I got the impression that they were not surprised.

It doesn't bother me that much. I mean most all center console shifters going back years, forced you to move the shifter forward from drive to do reverse, so it follows the logic. It's more that Park was moved to the vicinity of the neutral position.

Not a fan.

OK, consider the common denominator. Do you really think GM uses a bunch of different fuel doors with considerably different spring tensions? I have experienced tons of different car washes with all sorts of different blower configurations and there is no doubt that at the perfect angle, this could definitely occur at one place and not another. Naturally, if he has a defect that's a whole other situation. I suppose he could drive up the local dealers and test a few doors to confirm. I really don't have a dog in this race, as my primary point was, with a locking fuel door, this would be impossible no matter what.

I just use the orange Rain X -20F year around with zero issues in Chicago. Works great. I think the coating alone helps with removing ice. That said, I have heard of some enterprising folks lengthening the washer pump hose to wrap it around the radiator hose a number of times to achieve some degree of heating and claimed it worked great. I have never tried it.

The fuel door thing is definitely a function of the unique blower location of the Car Wash. Its never happened to me, but I'm sure it could happen at one that is configured differently or has stronger blowers aimed differently. Whatever happened to locking fuel doors?

Sounds like the stalk and/or wiring has a short.

I was told it was normal.

Interesting theory. If it really takes 5 minutes to complete the procedure after you lock it up and walk away, it sure sounds like they need to come up with another route. I also heard it had something to do with the diesel. But who really knows.

When I got my 2023, I was running into the same issue. The music was skipping, apps were sluggish, etc, and it turned out my phone just wasn't up to the task that CP and AA are demanding. I got a new flagship phone and it's rock solid and everything is very quick. Sucked that in addition to these nosebleed truck costs that you have to factor in a new phone, but that's the only solution I found.

I did a short test today and did see the 'divot'. It did seem to go away in a few minutes, but I can see what you are talking about. Imho, this is not something GM is going to deal with, not unless you start seeing a crack or something significantly worse. They will probably just blame you for not using the existing door arm rest which as we all know is mounted about 3 inches too low. Again, bad ergos. The solution I shared is many times more comfortable and very inexpensive. I just wish I know how to remove some of the door panel trim, without removing the entire panel, so I could anchor it a little better. All I can say is good luck.

Nothing is easy anymore when it comes to integrating with the electronics on these refresh and newer trucks. In many cases with stuff like this, it would require custom programming that the dealers probably don't even have access to. These new trucks are nothing like before, as they are really zipped up. Maybe in time as more aftermarket guys find hacks, but there are not many options now.

x3. Irritating as hell.

Detroit lean - Nice.

LOL, anything is possible if you throw money at it. Better off selling the truck and getting one already equipped.

I got 20% off in May around Memorial Day.

So far so good, but we are nearing the normal 30 day interval, so I'm holding my breath with my NOCO GBX55 with me every single place I go. It's still very odd to me that after I turn off the engine, exit the vehicle, lock the doors and wait for the lights to go off, I still hear all sorts of strange apparatus cycling sounds for an oddly long time. Its not the normal fans, but it sounds like solenoids and such. Very unnerving. Then a week or so ago, my door handle button unlock stopped working out of the blue. I hit the FOB the doors would unlock, and the handle button would lock it, but not unlock. Very odd. So I had to go through all of the settings to cycle all of them, and it started working again. Not sure what caused this, but raised the irritation level another notch. I gotta say that the electronics on this truck scare the heck out of me. Between all of the odd things going on, how locked down everything is, and the skyrocketing complexity, questionable reliability, and repair costs, I just don't have the confidence this thing is going to give me 10yrs/150K trouble free miles. Got my fingers crossed. Don't get me wrong, I really like the truck, especially the LZO, but do we need all the gizmos? Back to basics I say.

Whatever dent that might have been there is gone now. I didn't notice anything and I certainly don't rest my elbow there anymore. I just think it's crappy that these designers don't spend more time on the drivers ergo's, as resting both elbows is mission critical for longer hauls.

Fwiw, I have always rested my left elbow on the top of the door panel near the window on all my vehicles going back to the beginning of time. This Silverado is a different animal and there is something about the contour and padding. Shortly after I bought this '23 RST, I moved my daughter from Chicago to GA over a weekend, and it was pretty uncomfortable with my normal driving style with my elbow on the door panel, as the stock elbow rest is far too low. I would put the elbow up there and after a while my arm would go numb, so I would move it for a bit. I'd get my feeling back and do it again. After 1,800 miles round trip over that weekend, I got back and my arm was numb for months. The doctor said I pinched the nerve. I'm just now starting to get my feeling back on my finger tips. Something about the lack of decent padding and the sharper radius seems to be the cause. No fun. I ended up getting one of these things that solved the problem, but it's a little awkward as there is no solid mount. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B1J81WZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mine had zero cuts, fwiw.

Yes, create the offline map, which is a good thing.

Fwiw, I got the truck back and they replaced the battery and called it good. After 5 episodes of finding a dead battery, no doubt the original was being effected. However, it sure would have been nice to figure out the root cause on how a perfectly good battery starts the truck all month long, then the next day its so dead the doors won't even unlock. We will see how the next few weeks go.

LOL, I and the others clearly are not following you. We all agree the dealer could have done a better job here, and it was suggested you elevate the issue with mgmt if you are not happy. Clearly, you don't agree with the GM troubleshooting procedures, so it might benefit you to gain some insights on how it works. I'm not going to even touch your theories on dealership finances or margins, but you do have an interesting opinion. Good luck.

Why are you taking it out on people here? Nobody here can do anything other than to offer their perspectives, and I think there have been a number of considerate responses. Your issue is with the dealer. I agree they should have been able to find the origin of the leak pretty quickly and make the appropriate repairs - provided they had the parts in stock, which they very well might not have. Your options now are to escalate the experience to higher ups at the dealer, and/or call Chevy. No doubt, having the situation on an expensive new vehicle in the first place is disappointing. I'm dealing with my own issues on my truck, and yes, it's no fun.