MrMagloo

Speaking of fender flares, I wonder if there is a way to order the ones off the ZR2?

100K Miles and 3 years, I'm looking forward to this pic.

Hmm, then you would think they would logically prevent you from scrolling non-stop with the various DIC options while driving too. The problem is with logic consistency. I have no issue with them putting in a few second pause like AA does, but totally blocking further scrolling is a little over the top.

Well, firstly I did read the entire thread and while I appreciate you don't like the stocker, I happen to not find it to be a problem. I don't find that line any more obtrusive than the frame around most of the other stick on versions, and certainly the stocker looks much nicer. But again, I respect your opinion. I'd like to have mine, and my preference would be to have a matching mirror for the right.

Agreed - that could be an option, but messy for sure. Lots of dumb choices GM took with this truck. Why would the internal logic be different in scrolling than the AA environment? Retarded.

Too bad GM doesn't simply make the same design for the passenger side to match this?

Just got back from a trip to GA with the new RST. Ran into another strange issue where my USB stick with tons of MP3's was pretty much worthless. Every time I tried to scroll through the folders, after about 3 screens, it would freeze and say, "Scrolling limited while driving". So I'd wait, and wait, and wait, and nothing. It just totally locks down? Very weird as with AA/Spotify, when doing the same thing, you will get a pause but in a few seconds you can scroll again. But not with the USB? Has anyone come up with a work around or fix for this. Jeez, what a PITA. This basically renders the USB ports unusable unless you only want to listen to music that starts with A. Ergh!

Same here. Appears to be the Trailer Connector security feature.

I don't think so. At first I thought it might have been my iDash, but it doesn't appear to be related.

I ran into the same problem with my one-month old 2023 LZO/NHT. All was fine for the first 3 weeks, and then out of the blue on that Saturday morning of Memorial Day weekend, I went out and the battery was dead. Very strange. Pulled out the battery charger and let it go for about an hour, and it started. I then had an hour long drive, so I brought the battery charger and jump cables just in case, but it's been fine ever since. I did however, just purchase a NOCO GBX55 1750amp Jump starter for peace of mind.

Fwiw, it was much easier to judge the sound quality with these factory systems when they included CD players where you could run a solid known reference quality CD. Now, it's much harder to figure out what the real capabilities are. Although I haven't had the truck long enough to get to the audio, I've found so far that running the highest quality Spotify that is saved to my phone makes a noticeable improvement. Also, I pulled a number of albums and playlists that I had ripped from CD to 320kpbs which sounds pretty good as well. I find that fading 2 notches to the back, and bumping the treble a couple of notches makes the system sound fairly decent. If I find that the system can handle lossless like FLAC, I'll do another round of rips. I had pretty good luck with my Vette replacing the Bose speakers with JL C2-****** series speakers, and will probably try that too, once I get some of the other more important mods done.

Yes, I was pretty shocked on my ride home and realized I had no 12v port. Bizarre. At least there is a 120v outlet that perhaps can be used for the cooler?

Does anyone know what the desired temp range the MQC is designed for? If they have a thermostat like the dealer claims, and they are designed to run in the 180-200 range, I wonder if there are any negatives to running them lower with the PPE Bypass. If not, I'm wondering with the Max Tow (with the larger Trans Cooler already) the hot ticket might just be to stick with the stock cooler and go with the Bypass. But again, I wonder if 140-160 might be too cold and cause issues down the road? Imho, I'd be more comfortable if the result was more in the 160-180 range.

Yes, I understood yours was a different question, and my post was not directed to you.

While we are on the topic, the stock LED fogs on the 2023 RST are next to worthless. Is there any aftermarket that will fit that same location in the bumper without cutting, and use the stock wiring? Or, can the LED bulbs be replaced?

There are no Cigar type 12v outlets anywhere on the truck. I do realize there is a very subtle difference in that the Cigar outlet will retain the heating element whereas the 12v port will not, but there is none of either configuration. You only get the USB-A and USB-C on the dash and in the console, and another set on the back of the console for the rear seat. You also get a 120V outlet in the console and in the bed. No 12v Power or Cigar outlets. I was shocked myself. I know alot of people stopped smoking over the past few years, but how many trades guys driving pickups still smoke?

Fwiw, I bought an iDash that I received last week and ran into a number of issues on my 2023 LZ0/NHT. Pretty disappointing that there is virtually no documentation, and you have to search the internet for clues on how to get started. After trying a number of different vehicles and not seeing the same available BIDS options others were posting, I finally just called Banks. I was emailed a new firmware 1.24.7 and was told to use DMAX LM2 - and yes, they don't know anything about a LZ0? With this latest revision, you can now see DPF SL (Soot Level) and the Converter lock status with GEAR. They did say these Beta was open for redistribution and they were looking for feedback.

2023's don't have a cigar lighter port anywhere in the vehicle.

I'm not sure I've seen an "old cigarette lighter connection" in a 2023. As discussed earlier, the F27/28 appears to be that circuit, but that doesn't have the full time Batt prong in the F28 position anymore. Probably because there is no Cigar Sockets on the 2023's.

This all sounds very odd based on what I am seeing. I just picked up my 2023 RST 3.0L NHT (Max Tow) and while I haven't towed anything yet, just around town and mixed highway, I am seeing averages in the 190 degrees range once fully warmed up. I asked the dealer and they said this was normal, that there is a thermostat that maintains that temp to maximize efficiency? This explanation and comparison to your experiences seems not to reconcile? Fwiw, I have the MQC trans if that makes any difference?

On the flip side of this, is there a safe fuse to tap into for full time batt power?

File is corrupted.

Thanks Red, Yes still trying to sort this out and doing a lot of searching. It does seem that some of the earlier posts in 2019 thru 2021 referenced the USB and Power outlets were effected by F27/28. But to set that to rest, on my 2023 there are only prongs in the F27 position, far left and center. That F28 far right prong is missing so it appears they did away with full time power for the outlets at least. Now what is confusing is, I started the truck, and connected a USB light to the USB-A Port in the dash and had power. Then I removed fuse F26. I was anticipating that the USB port would power down, but it didn't. Very strange. At this point, I'm getting very close to just mounting a generical USB port under the dash to any full time power circuit I can find and calling it a day. On Edit, with the truck running and the USB light connected to USB-A dash, as mentioned pulling F26 did not remove the power to the dash USB port. After trying a couple other safe fuses, when I pulled F32, the radio and the USB ports immediately died. Seems those dash ports are powered by the radio? Perhaps the USB ports in the center console storage area and the back of the console are powered by F26?

Well as an update, I tried a test in running leads into the 50a fuse held remotely, by running one test lead to constant 12v, and the other test lead to the center prong of the F27/28. No joy. I then removed the test leads and left the 50a fuse disconnected, and the USB ports were energized upon cycle. It appears something else other than F27 is providing power to the USB ports, at least on the 23's. Lastly on edit, I put everything back to stock, started the vehicle and confirmed the dash USB A was providing power. I removed the F26 and F27 fuse, and surprisingly I was still getting power. Back to ground zero.

Hi 2016, That was kind of the situation with the earlier models, with the exception that in the right passenger fuse compartment, there was a F27/28 slot that used to have three prongs and the 50a fuse was female. The outside prongs had power coming in. For F27 it was from RAP, meaning it was switched but would stay on after shutoff for a few minutes. In the F28 position, that outside prong was battery, meaning it was full time power. However, the problem is, that outside F28 battery prong is not present anymore as with the earlier 19's through perhaps the 21's or 22's. In my 23 at least, there is only 2 prongs on the F27 position. That F28 BATT is blank. So the question now is, has anyone tried to restore this F28 BATT prong, and if so, is there a part number and where was the BATT power sourced? Thanks!