I have been away for a minute, I am using an HID kit. It uses a bulb that fits much like the factory halogen bulb does, only it is powered by a ballast mounted near the headlight. A 7/8" hole is drilled into dust cap. A grommet/seal fits into the hole snug, but allows wires from ballast to pass thru dust cap to bulb. It is as sealed as factory. Many directions state 1" hole , but at 7/8" the seals still fit, but they are snug. At 1" they can be moved slightly meaning a not so tight seal. I want to add something. The housings I have came with the harness connector kind of loose. The metal clip that holds connector to housing can allow connector to come detached. Now you would look at this situation and think, who cares it isn't going anywhere and your right it isn't and is perfectly fine until water comes into the equation. With the connector loose and more vertical than horizontal like the clip holds it, the connector can fill with water. Even worse are the northern guys that get salty water road spray. It will rust the connectors quick. Put some adhesive on the clip to be sure it stays put on the housing like the stock one does. Finding the truck end of the headlight harness to replace is freaking impossible. I had to clean my connector down to clean metal again with a tiny pic tool and a tiny file. I have to see if maybe a junk yard is an option. I would even solder one in if I could just get a replacement end of the harness. I am not sure what all the rest of that headlight harness feeds. Mine works fine so far all cleaned up, but I would still like clean and new again.
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The Spec'd kit still uses a standard HID bulb and fits just fine under the dust cap on the LTZ projector, LTZ replicas by Eagle Eyes, Winjets or the reflector housings for that matter just fine with nothing but a 1" hole for the harness pass thru. I do a 3/4" hole for a tighter fit. The only thing that makes it Spec'd are the caps for anti flicker and an HD harness. I added my own caps to a standard Morimoto kit with HD harness to make my own Spec'd kit. I am confused about why anyone has had an issue putting an HID bulb in any K2XX housing and not have the dust cap fit back on. Maybe LED is what OP is thinking of cause many of the LED bulbs can cause dust cap fitment issues. Or if doing a retro like adding the FXR for example, there might be a fitment issue.
I have had mine over a year and so far so good. I can't say how bright they are with halogen cause I did HID, but if anyone cares. This is with a Morimoto bulb and 35 watt Diode Dynamics ballast. I have no issue with the performance and can see a good distance. I recently acquired a set of Morimoto 50 watt ballasts and am gonna give them a try. I had them for a different housing that isn't working as planned so why not.
Every single aftermarket HID kit is illegal even if the vehicle has factory HID's. That's in those regulations. All of em. Read into it. Or Google it. Now unless you have put HID's in that housing you don't know what you are talking about. I have and I guarantee that anyone that has a 14/15 reflector housing and HID's in them will tell you the same thing. These buckets just have the right curve and there is a definitive cutoff and no scatting. It works in these housings. Most don't work but these do. I have never gotten flashed by anyone when I run them. I change headlight housings a lot and have some experience with other housings too. I am over on SS.com and have a build thread if your interested. I am Rambodog. Looks like the Build thread over here is locked. " HID Kits: Are they Legal? The short answer is: NO. HID Kits are not legal. The long answer is this: NHTSA (National Highway Traffic and Safety Administration) has ruled that HID conversion kits are not only undoubtedly unsafe, but also illegal. People who I have personally talked to have received fines upward of $250 for their use of an illegal modification. They are not DOT approved, and are specifically sold as “for off-road use only.” While your local police officers may not pull you over for having illegal HID bulbs in your car, they may be more than happy to tack on a fine if they have reason to pull you over for something else or if you’re unlucky to catch an officer who is having a bad day or needs to meet a quota". Sources: http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/rulings/glare.html
Make sure to test drive them to 80 to be sure you aren't getting one with the shakes. The 2014 halogen reflectors do exceptionally well with HID's and have enough of a visible cutoff to aim the height well also. So well, I am considering going back to my OE reflectors over some new LTZ replica projectors I just installed. If you have reflectors, do HID's in them, they work really good in them, without your really missing out. The 2016 is mostly cosmetic for change. There are some improvements that were found with the 14/15 trucks made to the 2016+ trucks. Much of them are the same overall. You can check the RPO sticker in the glove box to verify what options the truck has. The available Z71 Off-Road Package includes: •Z71 Off-Road suspension•46mm twin-tube high-pressure gas-charged shocks•Skid Plate Package with a frame-mounted shield•GM segment-exclusive automatic locking rear differential that provides added grip when you need it•Available Z71 Appearance Package: 18" aluminum wheels, body-color mirrors and door handles, body-color grille with chrome insert, and Rancho® shocks
I did new wheels and tires. Then balance beads in the tires. Sand bags (3) up against the cab in the bed. The weight in the center of the truck oddly helped a little. As did the balance beads. The wheel and tire switch alone did nothing. Most recently I did a full transmission fluid flush and it helped a little also. I have a TCM tune (6 sp) and all of these actions together make for a pretty smooth ride. I took the sand bags out and did a coilover kit and it seems to have cancelled each other out. I can do 70 now with no shakes. Outrageous to have to go thru all of this for a ride I would expect from pretty much any vehicle with 4 wheels and not one that feels like the wheels are out of balance. Although it's better it still isn't like it should be. My ATV with no wheel weights and obnoxious aggressive tires run smoother than my truck before all the changes I made. I think all the time about what if I had purchased a different truck and could have done better. Occasional regret I guess. I could have bought anything and chose the Silverado. I saved for a really long time to buy this Silverado. My first one and likely my last.
I have run the RC 2.5 with 2" rear block and I disliked the limited down travel it created. If the tire dropped out fast like speed bumps for example it caused the UCA to kiss the bump stops now and then. It also caused a clicking sound in the steering. I had the Dealer voluntary update to the steering rack and it didn't change it. I went to a 0-3" adj. coilover set at 2" and the clicking had stopped. I no longer hit bump stops at all. I kept the 2" RC block when I went to the coilover kit. It leaves just a touch of rake for towing or heavy loads, but looks dang near level to the eye. I would do the RC under strut 2" spacers and their 2" rear block to replicate what I did. My opinion of course.
I have had shake @ 75+ since new and was given the run around about it during my first free oil change and at the 2nd free oil change as well as the 3rd and final. They never even tried for me. I have since installed Toyo tires with balance beads and different wheels. I have a Halo adj. coilover set at 2". Kit came with rear shocks included. The shake is still there with shock and tire changes. I had an alignment when the tires went on and again when the shocks did. I did however speak to someone that mentioned the weight in back of the truck. Said something about "Nervous Chassis" and that may be the issue. I did try out his theory and it did actually help a little. I put 4) 70 lb. sand tubes up against back of cab in bed. Your trying for center of truck and it's this or the back of your cab, you choose lol. I ran like this for a week to avoid placebo effect. I think it is possible it masked the issue, but it did feel like it helped a bit never the less. A truck always runs smoother with a load and in this case it helps a little with the shakes. I needed the room for camping so out came the tubes and since it is rare to catch me going over 65 mph, I left them out. I run a 10 ply and lower the psi to 38-40 to absorb road chatter around town 45 mph and under. Once on the highway this soft tire will distort and cause some good shaking so check air pressure no matter the tire your running to be sure your not causing some shake on top of your shake. Simple I know, but you would be surprised by how many will look at more complicated reasons before the simple things lol. I would like to say I had the answer, but I saw that about weight in bed so I had to say I have heard it too and it helped a little in my case. It's unreasonable to be expected to do this for a smooth ride in a $40k truck even if it solved it completely. 2014 5.3 1500 6 sp 4x4
I had a slight vibration since new, but not enough to bother me. My truck sits parked for extended periods and it sat parked before I took it home from dealer. I checked it off as flat spots. After installing a level kit with different directional rear axle blocks, the vibration frequency changed for the better. Still a very slight vibration, but better. I have since replaced tires (aggressive) and the little vibration there still was seems to be masked by the slightly louder tire noise and feel. There may be something to this angle idea? One thing to add. I never tried to glide in neutral or switch between 2 and 4WD.
I just looked on Ebay and see the ones from Sabersport for $289 a set plus $43 for shipping. Those have halo's, but are not LTZ replica. Looks like they would fit. I remember looking at them now. I couldn't find any real world data on them and the warranty stinks so went with the actual "replica" knowing how they work OE and knowing they would improve with an HID and am kind of glad I did cause it looks OE like it came that way except when the light comes on it looks and performs better than OE. Cost $100 more, but has a great warranty and an established company with a 1 800#. What matters though is what you like not what everyone else thinks.
I have the Eagle Eyes replicas on my 2014 LT from 1A Auto. They can be had for cheaper, but the warranty at 1A is good. One Ebay seller says 10 year warranty. Will they be there in 2 years let alone 10. 1A has been around since 1999 so they are pretty established. The first set they sent had an issue. The adjusters were never connected during manufacturing. It would have required breaking seal on halves to fix them so I called 1 800# and they shipped another set that day. PITA yes, but I was not left hanging or going thru BS to make it right. I have 60 days to ship defective ones back with a provided RMA label to cover shipping. I really am happy I was patient and in very short order I was up an running with Projectors and some nice HID's. I might talk with them about purchasing defective ones at a discount. I thought about splitting them open and doing an FX-R 3.0 upgrade and can connect adjusters while I am in there. I might figure out a halo to add to them. FYI the Eagle Eyes are from Taiwan. The OE ones are Sylvania/Valeo. The only difference I found is the fit. It just requires a little massaging and they work well in the end. It is a fit issue no one but the installer will ever notice. The bulbs are a little tight too, but do fit. Very minor stuff. Do not let that sway you away from them. I am not talking body line issues or bolts lining up. Just a snug fit. They are worth it and at half the cost of OE even better. Go for it, I think you will like it. As for a halo. I thought the LTZ projector had a halo. I could have sworn I saw a set behind me in traffic running a yellowish halogen partial halo. Projector was off. Mine have no halo. I have since recalled that we were driving into the sun and I must have been seeing yellow sun reflecting off the chrome parentheses on either side of projector (0). I have faced my truck into sun a few times since and it sure does reflect sun and looks like a yellowish halo reflected off that chrome around projector. Still not satisfied. Bummed me out when they didn't have the halo. Unless I am wrong and OE has them? I have not really dug too deep into it. I still like them way more than the reflector.
I know what you mean. They look great and they look stock. I didn't get flashed on a 35 mile trip between 5 and 6 am today. I see no glare on faces passing. Top cutoff is right around the average sedan window sill height with enough overlap to see street and traffic signs at a good distance. Made a big difference seeing in the rain. I still will get some more pics on the road and with some different cameras. I have several that I cannot upload. For some reason it keeps telling me Error 301.
FWIW I came across this video a while back when I first started to look into lighting options. It talks about an easy remedy to your reflector/HID set up. I almost did this, but pulled the trigger on Projectors.
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