homermacleod

After cancelling onstar, the speed limit indicator on the truck has stopped working. This week, I noticed that the speed limited started displaying on the dic and dash again. I did not get onstar again. Did anyone else notice this?

I just saw this today. https://www.rangetechnology.com/products/afm-dfm_disabler/parts/RA007 "Some 1500 Truck applications may still encounter DFM activation at slow speeds during deceleration when 0% throttle input is detected at the ECM" I called range for an update about the availability of a pulsar for the refreshed trucks and was told they have no information at this time.

Sorry, I just now saw this. I got the audio control d-6.1200 and used the summing feature. It will combine the signals from the channels that you choose, which will allow you to send a full signal to the rear speakers and you can adjust the gain on each speaker pair. If I'm not mistaken, the lc-6.1200 also allows you to sum the channels and is significantly cheaper. https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/power-amplifiers/d-61200/ https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/power-amplifiers/lc-61200/ There are other amps that you could use to accomplish the same thing, I just went with the d-6.1200

The answer is a dsp. I installed the audio control d-6.1200 in my truck, After Summing the rear with the dash and front door, I now have proper sound coming from my rear speakers, not the muffled garbage from the factory Bose settings. I don't know why you guys think we should have a decent sound system in a truck that costs over $60,000.

Best advice I can give you is to avoid LLJ customs. See the google reviews and check out BBB. John makes harnesses and you don't have to wait months to get it and he'll actually respond to your questions. A.I.S.-Audio Integration Solutions <[email protected]> JL audio is cool, but I went with an audio control d-6.1200 (it has a built in dsp). If you go with that, you don't need a line output converter. I looked at JL and was told that I would need a vxi amp along with a twk-88. I opted to go for the Audio Control.

No, the tweeter is in the door above the 6.5" speaker. the crossover is mounted behind the door panel.

I put the jl c2 650 components in the door where the 6x9s were previously. I extended the wire connected to the stock 6x9 to the jl crossover and then ran wires from the crossover to the tweeter and 6.5" speakers. In the end, I ended up going from a 7 speaker bose system to a 10 speakers in my truck.

It's been a while since I updated this. The harness from LLJ finally arrived towards the end of April. To make a long story short, the harness took way to long to arrive, when it did actually arrive, it was not made as I ordered and upon further research, it was not made correctly at all. None of the wire color matched their wiring diagram and some wires were not connected to anything (hooked up the wire pair to a 9v battery and none of the speakers popped). LLJ was totally unresponsive to inquiries and did nothing to fix the faulty harness that they sent me. I ended up calling my credit card company and getting my money back. For those of you looking for a harness, look elsewhere. Check out all the reviews and the Better Business Bureau before buying from LLJ Customs. I referred some people to John at AIS and they got their harness is a timely manner and John actually communicates with his customers. Getting back to my install. I ended up figuring out the harness situation and am finally getting closer to finishing everything up. I made an amp board out of 1/4" acrylic and got everything mounted up. The only thing left is to run the power wire, ground and then get the dsp set up. After all that it done, I will be moving on to the HD radio install. Hopefully everything will be done this weekend. Heres a few pics: JL C2 650 - front door Amp Rack Radar Detector Mount Extra USBs 12V Sockets (2)

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This happened to my refreshed 22 twice. One with around 3000 miles and the second time at 5000. the first time, it cleared itself and the dealer said that they could not do anything since the lights went away. the second time, they replaced the brake controller and master cylinder. I'm at 12000 miles and haven't had that problem reoccur yet.

Getting mine done tomorrow (cooling seats and park assist)

Pm sent

I don't know if it's different for a GMC, but I have them on my refreshed Silverado.

I got that message twice in my truck. The first time, I was told that they could not do anything because the check engine light went away before I got to the dealership. The second time was at 5000 miles. They replaced the master cylinder and the brake control module. I am now at 8700 miles and have not had that problem come back yet.

Quick update. Got all the speakers installed, installed another set of USBs to power my ambient lighting, installed 2 12v sockets, and made a mount for my radar detector (won't mount it to the windshield because I got it tinted with ceramic tint). Just took out the rear seat today to see if there is room to build an amp rack and mount my 2 amps to it. Has anyone built an amp rack to go behind the rear seat back? Any tips or suggestions? Toying with the idea of mounting the hd module under the front passenger seat. The only hold up with my sound upgrade is the LLJ harness (still waiting for it, 3 months now) it's only a month past the initial promise date for shipping. I wish pac or metra would hurry up and start making stuff (harnesses) for our trucks. I just bought a pac harness for my brothers F150 and made my own loopback harness ($60 bucks all in for the harness) including the speedwire and tesa tape. Only took about an 2 hours to solder everything together and tape up.

No idea, I'm just going to leave it as Is for now. I'm happy with the improved ride quality. Eventually, I'll add a spindle lift and 35s when it's time to replace the tires.

Just installed bilstein 5100s on the front of my truck. I only got 1.5" of lift on the #5 setting, which should have been 2". I have the 5.3 in my truck.

Thanks Richard

I'm thinking about installing a killswitch in my truck. I saw a youtube video where the guy suggested using the ECM fuse for the kill switch. Would that not cause the ecm to reset every time you use the kill switch (similar to disconnecting the battery)? Anyone have any suggestions on which fuse to use for a kill switch?

I pulled the bedcover off my 1998 c1500 after the truck got totaled. Covers similar to mine are going for $1500+. I don't plan on getting a used truck and did not feel like modifying the rails to fit my 2022 short bed truck. If anyone is in the Houston area and could use this cover for their truck, I'd be willing to let it go for $400 (local pickup). The cover is complete and in good condition, it's is just dusty from sitting in the salvage yard while on my truck. It's not for the chevrolet, but here's a link for the same cover on a different truck so you can see what it looks like: https://www.amazon.com/BAK-Industries-R15204-Aluminum-Retractable/dp/B001DNHA38/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_pdt_img_top?ie=UTF8

I have a LC2i for sale that I used in my civic before I sold it. It's in good working condition. I decided to go with a dsp amp and no longer need this. It's going for about $100 +/- online, I'd be willing to sell it for $70 shipped. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-yZP0LHfyck7/p_161LC2IB/AudioControl-LC2i-Black.html?XVINQ=GZ0&XVVer=YTF&awcr=628294445995&awdv=c&awnw=g&awug=1026481&awkw=pla-296661770568&awmt=&awat=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIse3z6q7k_AIVzBXUAR01hwtGEAQYASABEgKoDPD_BwE

No, I have not seen anything available for the refreshed trucks yet. I went with an amplifier with a built in dsp and found an add on HD Radio unit.

You could get this harness and tap into the reverse wire on it. https://www.putco.com/product/blade-quick-connect-harness/v/Chevy/Silverado 1500/2023/ I saw it on ebay around $40.

Has anyone tried running new speaker wires when installing an amp? I discovered that the Silverado has a molex plug on the cab side of the door grommet, so you can't just run the wire through the grommet into the door like we used to do in older vehicles. The first time I ran into this was in my Camaro. I just ended up drilling a hole in the molex plug to run the new wire through. I have not disconnected the plug to see if I can do the same thing in the truck.

Damn, those look like they would work. I didn't cut the plug off anyways. I just spiced into the wire a few inches before the plug and taped off the plug. If I ever sell the truck, I'll just remove the new wire and put electrical tape over the area where I split the jacketing.