Randal Scott

That's the loudest of the 3 kits that Flowmaster has for our trucks. The one that I have heard was to loud. I like the sound of what I have now. Just don't like the drone at the 1700 to 1900 rpm range. Which is highway cruising range. I haven't pulled camper with this muffler yet. The other mufflers were too loud. I looked at the Flowmaster kits. That was my next choice.

Custom Third Brake Light Camera for 8" Factory Monitor - Night Vision I'll try and get a better link.

At Etrailer it's $600 plus for the kit.

Ok,I have that AFE cat-back exhaust kit. I'm on my 3rd muffler. The original was to loud and cab drone. I added a resonator muffler, which is a 18 inch overall length glass pack style. It helped a little. Changed the original muffler to a Mbrp quiet model. It quiet it down. It started to get loud again. The muffler turned color, like it got hot. Took it off and the inside was melted. I had a muffler shop put a new muffler on. It's an AP brand chambered type. That quieted it right down to a nice sound. But I still have drone in the cab around 1800 rpm. This muffler was designed to be on by itself. Wondering if I take the resonator muffler glass pack out would the drone go away. Thinking it's a frequency thing. Any thoughts or subjection? If I was going to do it again, I would just change the muffler. Thinking Flowmaster 50 Big Block series.

Your truck may not have the wiring for the other cameras. My 2020 2500hd silverado didn't come with the bed camera. Checked with GM about adding it. The original build sheet showed that it was suppose to have it. But during the build, it got deleted and the wire harness wasn't added. Now if I want it, Etrailer has a kit goes in with the rear camera and I can switch between the two.

I would check the tongue weight. If you can add more, I would. Not a lot. Some of these RV'S have the axles in the middle of the main body, which gives you a big overhang on the rear. That's one of the main reasons of chucking. IMO that's why the need for tongue weight. They put the axles in the middle to reduce the tongue weight for lighter cargo capacity trucks.

How was your hitch Held down in your 2500hd? If it is the puck system, then it may need tighten up. If it was connected to the gooseneck hitch, was it tight? I'm not familiar with the B&W hitch, is there any adjustments to the Jaws? How level is your fifth wheel when hooked to the truck?

My 2020 won't give me any notification of any kind. I do get phone calls. Unless I'm using the phone as a source for playing music and such. So I'm I looking in setting for this to turn on or pick?

No, the bolts that hold the legs to the center section. You have the same hitch that I do. But I have the puck system legs. There's 2 or 4 bolts on each side. I can't remember if they take a 3/4" or 1 1/16" wrench. I think it's the 3/4" wrench. The 1 1/16" wrench is used on the pin box bolts, I think.

Does your hitch rock in the bed rails without being hooked to the rv? You need to get that play fixed. Loosen the bolts and press on the hitch to get it settled, then slowly tighten the bolts. I have had others tell me to hookup to the rv and then Loosen the bolts. The weight will hold the hitch down to tighten it. Just make sure the tow vehicle and the rv are not pushing or pulling at each other. Need them relaxed. That's why the puck system is a little better. You have adjustments on each corner.

I also have a Honda Goldwing trike. I have not rode it for the last 2 plus years. Being laid up. It got 100 miles or so put on it in that time by my sister and niece. The last oil change was in the fall of 2021. If I can't ride it this year. I'm going to sell it. It's a 2013 with 23000 miles on it.

The K&N filter is not a reusable filter. For the nut, it's on the bottom. So to make it easier to install/remove. Now being disabled and retired, I don't get out much. Specially now in the winter. In a year and a half, it's just have 2000 miles on this oil change. When I was working, 6000 to 8000 miles a year. So I would change oil at 5000 miles. With being disabled these past years, the pickup only got around a 1000 miles for a couple years. And that dash oil life counter would say needs an oil change in less than 6 months. And it was just sitting in the garage. And so far shows no signs of oil usage.

I was thinking of going to Shell T6 5W40 next oil change. I have 22,000 miles on the Odometer now. I use it in my bike for years. And the lawn equipment. I mainly use AC/Delco oil filters. Have used Purolator, Wix, and Fram when it's the only one I can get. Thought about K&N, like the idea with the nut on the bottom. I change oil every 5000 miles. But been laid up and it's not driven that much right now. It been a year and a half now have only just got 2000 miles now. Towing and short trips. It's black and I'm going to change it.

Here's a video on how to install the second battery. Shows how to do it 2 different ways.

On the older duallies, you couldn't use 245s because the tires would touch.

On the back end, removing the blocks or using drop shackles. It wouldn't lower payload because you didn't change the springs. On the front I don't know. Your not changing the bar. Just reposition the key. I thought about moving them one notch. They do make keys that are adjustable. Which can fine tune in smaller amounts. Makes me wonder what the difference is between 2wd and 4wd. The 2wd do sit lower. I seen a 3500hd 2wd drw sitting beside a 2500hd 4wd. And the 3500hd sat lower.

I looked at it. Instead of buying one, I just modified mine to look somewhat it.

Has anyone tried lowering their 2500hd 4x4? I'm an amputee and have a hard time getting in. I know that to do the rear end you either remove the blocks or use drop shackles. Just trying to find out how to do the front end. Right now the rear end is 1 1/2" plus higher then the front end. I know the front end has torsion bars and you can back out the bolts at the keys. As of now I haven't looked to see how much bolt there is to back out. This is one of the few things I don't like about this truck, it's too high/tall. I do pull a 5th wheel camper. Which would be easier to hook and unhook if it was lowered.

On a gasser this is where it gets it's air from. As long as you have a closed cold air intake in the OEM position. I didn't get one of these. I looked closely at theirs and modified my OEM to work about the same. There is a post on here showing what I did.

I did this on a gasoline engine truck. I think it helped with gas mileage and pulling camper.

Well I took off the K&N kit and went back to stock. I just didn't like the extra under hood noise. But it did help. Better throttle response. And seems to have a little more power. So I sold it.

I'm sorry but this is not the right part number. I was told wrong!

I'm looking for a part number for the power cord that plugs into the outside of the truck. That runs the block heater. The truck is a 2020 3500 HD High Country with a 6.6l diesel. They bought it used and it didn't come with it. Any help on the part number and/or where to get one. They used to go to Florida for the winter. Not this year! Need to be able to plug it in.

Where did you get the door sill protectors?

The factory prep punk mount is made by Curt. I have heard others ordering a punk kit from Curt. And I know that some had the dealer order and install in their Silverado.