MadMatt3883

Torque spec is different on the previous gen I believe.

I was given this. So based on what I’ve seen I’ll have to take the wheels and brakes off to do this. I have a digital torque adapter with a “peak torque” setting which will freeze the max torque applied after completing. You think that will will be sufficient to measure the torque? Also does it matter which direction I turn the the pinion nut to measure that torque? Edit: After re-reading this it looks like I just need to measure how much torque it takes to remove the pinion nut then add 3-5 lb in when putting the new nut back on.

I have a 19 Silverado with a little over 45,000 miles. I recently discovered a rear pinion seal leak. I cannot find detailed instructions to do the repair (torque specs, one time use/reusable bolt etc.). Pinion seal replacement seem to be the same for most axles, I just want detailed stuff like torque specs. Anybody have snippets from a service manual that can help?

Unless you have warranty why does everybody take their truck into a dealer for major repairs like this? You’re paying a much higher rate than you would for a good independent shop. For $9800 my DFM better be gone forever.

Well I’m going to have to correct myself on that now. I ended up replacing the trans cooler thermostat and installing a superior transmissions STL0101. The cooler flow is now always open and the transmission fluid usually doesn’t go above 120ish unless I’m in rush hour traffic. The start stop works all the time now, even when the truck isn’t at operating temperature. I’m not sure what the original issue was. The start stop got annoying real fast and I just disable it now.

Will replacing it even make a difference? It’s in the rear view mirror, looks easy to swap out and the part is only a few dollars. Just figured I would attempt to reset it before swapping it.

Does anybody know how to reset the temp sensor? Outside temperature readings are usually 20 degrees off when the truck has been parked outside. Once I start driving the reading drops but still reads 6-10 degrees hotter than it probably should. I’ve already tried holding the AC and recirculate buttons which does nothing.

It’s got 19800 miles, I’m the second owner. Bought it with only 11800 miles. Nothing in the service history shows anything but oil changes, so your probably right with the black label stuff being in there.

So would my 2019 probably have the original HP? My trans is mostly fine except for the hard 3-1 or 2-1 downshift.

Wasn’t that fluid Dex6? I thought by 2019 they had already switched to the Mobile stuff.

GM recommends a fluid flush (per manual) at 45000 miles. You’re almost 30k miles past that. GM probably won’t cover anything, damage done is probably your fault.

I found the issue. There’s no problem. The transmission fluid temperature isn’t hot enough. Unlike my previous truck (F150) the transmission in this truck heats up real slow. My daily commute to work is about 17 miles one way and is mostly highway. The hottest the fluid gets on one leg of the commute is about 115-135. I noticed when the fluid gets to about 165 is when auto start/stop begins to engage. In my case, that hardly ever happens.

It’s the original windshield.

Bought it used. It’s a 2019. I ended up taking it off. It was halfway coming off anyways.

What is this? Does every GM truck have this? On mine it’s very sloppily applied and looks terrible. Think I’m gonna just rip it off.

Call me crazy, but I prefer halogen bulbs. If your halogen tail light burns out it’s less than $10 to fix. If your LED tail light somehow goes out you’re replacing the whole taillight. LEDs fail less than halogen but they still sometimes fail.

Very nice.

You’re the second person to ask this. I’ll repost it because i want an auto dimming driver side mirror and I can’t seem to find a part # for that anywhere. IMO an auto dimming interior mirror is almost useless if the driver side mirror is still blinding me.

So I can rule out a tune. Out of nowhere it started working today.

When I get a chance I’m going to test the battery. That battery is 4 years old now. I’m in south Texas and down here car/truck batteries suffer from early deaths due to the heat.

My money is on the battery. I was hoping someone would be able to recognize my battery as being factory or not factory. When I have time I’m going to take it to autozone and have the battery tested. Edit: pulled the top cover off. Factory battery. Now I have a check engine light after disconnecting the battery lol.

No. What type of ODB scanner would I need for that?

Are you talking about the aftermarket cable installed behind the switch?

I’m not spending money to fix this. If it’s an easy fix I’ll do it, otherwise I’ll leave it alone.

Greetings. I just recently (last couple of weeks) picked up a used 2019 Silverado LT 2wd. I’ve noticed that the auto start stop has never activated. I’m not getting any error messages and I don’t have a check engine light. I’m guessing the battery may be the issue. If the battery is from the factory, it’s probably just getting old. If the previous owner replaced the battery, maybe he didn’t replace it with an AGM battery. I posted a couple of pics of the battery, just wondering if anybody can tell if this is the original battery or if it looks like a replacement. I’m not seeing any brand labeling on the battery, just the warning label on top.