2017HD replied to No F-bdy Bs's topic in 2015-2019 Chevy Silverado & GMC Sierra HDI had one of the first 6spds in 07. It was a solid transmission and towed my 6000 lb Arctic Fox around for 10 yrs before I traded it for my new DMax. I agree that 4th gear and 3000-4000 RPMs is a sweet spot for towing hills. As far as the tuning goes, I think GM programmed it to not downshift until the RPMs are down in the lower torque band - esp when these engines produce almost 90% of their torque by 2000RPMs.
If you are not towing or hauling - why go HD - there are way more choices in the 1/2T and the 5.3L gets better MPG. Also with the new 2019's coming out there will be good deals on the 18's left on the lot. OR you can opt for one of those new Trail Boss or the GMC version of it.
I have had the towing mirrors on my last two trucks - an 07 and 17 - the 17 is an LTZ with power fold which is nice in parking lots - they now have a feature where you hold down the lock button on the fob for an extra second and the mirrors auto fold in, do the same on the unlock button and they fold out. I tow larger travel trailers and really appreciate these great mirrors - have used the clip on mirror extensions - hated them - way too small and they wiggled too much.
2017HD replied to Zane's topic in The GarageMy truck sat in the lot at my home port for 3 wks before making its way to my dealer. It actually took GM intervention to get it to move - seems that they got on my dealer's case for not delivering 9 cars by the end of the month/quarter - all nine (including mine) were all stuck waiting for convey drivers to haul them out. GM allowed the dealer to go to the port and retrieve them. The day I picked up my truck there were three car carriers with cars sitting on the lot being unloaded.
The camera system adds cameras to the underside of the mirrors and depending on which package you get - a camera for the back of your trailer and/or a camera in the upper brake light on the cab. The camera in the brake light is only good for checking things in the bed and for hitching a gooseneck or 5th wheel camera. The camera you mount on the back of the trailer is good for acting like a rear view mirror when going down the road and when backing your trailer. All of this is a mote point if you are not planning on towing with this bad boy. Nitrogen for life - probably only good at the dealer - if you have a flat or other tire trouble on the road - forget it. Not sure what handle cups are. Dealers usually add equipment so they can jack up the price. The camera system is hard to uninstall the other stuff maybe less. I would only go for the loaded truck if you intend to trailer.
Have driven a Ford with it and it is not all what it is cracked up to be. While on a freeway I was in the passing lane and while overtaking another vehicle the rig I was driving all of a sudden slowed down as the sensors picked up the slower rig to my right. It also waited until the last minute and then it felt like it put on the brakes. Maybe the GM system is better than the Ford - but it was something I really could not get used to.
Also you really need to look very carefully at both companies config charts - they are very good at playing mix and match when it comes to payload and towing as they usually spec them on a bare bones trucks. GM is also not going to play a towing numbers game and ha - ve told the world that they are simply going for the majority marked and giving them the best towing experience they can. If you are wanting something different in your truck - wait for the 2019 models I know they will be more $$ but they will be a whole new truck.
The TBC in the truck is quite sensitive and it checks for resistance in the trailer brake lines - if it is too high it thinks the brakes are not connected and therefore the trailer. Which is why cleaning the contacts on both the truck and trailer helps. It could also mean that the wiring harness in your trailer is bad - or the brakes are bad.
2017HD replied to papageoff's topic in Trailers, Hitches, & TowingThese hitches have several adjustments that need to be done in proper order. First is the ball height - most WD hitches say to set it for the measured height of the tongue (measured to the top inside of the coupler) when the TT is level. Then add some amount for every 100 lbs of loaded hitch wt. The idea here is to have the TT near level before the bars are attached. The next adjustment is the hitch head tilt - this actually determines the amount of links and amount of tension the bars are going to have. This is a trial and error adjustment most heads have a small bolt that will hold the head angle without tightening the top bolt also leave the lower bolt loose so the head can pivot around it. When you are all done the truck, trailer, and WD should all be parallel to the ground - ie level. My WD hitch is an older EAZ Lift and they said to use no fewer that 2 and no more than 4 links This also gives you some adjustability if your loads change. I usually plan on spending a good 1/2 day adjusting things. On my last TT the dealer left my hitch too low and then cranked the WD bars up to four links and they almost touched the TT frame - my 35mi ride home was really white knuckle. My next tow I set the bars lower and things were better. Then I sat down and did my full routine and ended up raising the hitch ball up to the next set of holes. and put the head at full tilt and now use 2-3 links over on the chains and the ride is now easy - no more white knuckles. Yes I do have a 2500 so my sag is less - I am also towing a 31'TT that weighs around 8000 lbs and probably close to 1000lbs on the tongue. I am using 1000lb bars - I also know from past experience that I really should have 1200 or 1400lb bars - that will be part of my next hitch - which may be something like a Blue Ox or Equal-I-zer brand.
Find a dealer that has a GM Certified Fleet Department - they know trucks inside and out as 90% of their business in in them. I have used the same Fleet buyer for my last 3 trucks and he has never had any issues with placing my orders. Now waiting for the trucks to be built and delivered - that is another story
It could also be a bad switch module in the driver's door - has something been spilled on them? Next choice would be something in the cabin computer module. These things are all digital now and switches no longer close the circuit - they send a message to the computer and it actually closes the switch.
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