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2017HD

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About 2017HD

  • Rank
    2017HD
  • Birthday 06/15/1956

Profile Information

  • Name
    Randy
  • Location
    Hillsboro, Oregon
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    17 2500 Double Cab DMax LTZ Silver Ice Metallic

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  1. The TBC in the truck is quite sensitive and it checks for resistance in the trailer brake lines - if it is too high it thinks the brakes are not connected and therefore the trailer. Which is why cleaning the contacts on both the truck and trailer helps. It could also mean that the wiring harness in your trailer is bad - or the brakes are bad.
  2. LTZ Chrome to LT Trim

    Most of the LTZ chrome are simply caps that go over the black ones - check out GM parts for the chrome stuff. I agree that most people go the other way and get rid of the chrome on the LTZ.
  3. These hitches have several adjustments that need to be done in proper order. First is the ball height - most WD hitches say to set it for the measured height of the tongue (measured to the top inside of the coupler) when the TT is level. Then add some amount for every 100 lbs of loaded hitch wt. The idea here is to have the TT near level before the bars are attached. The next adjustment is the hitch head tilt - this actually determines the amount of links and amount of tension the bars are going to have. This is a trial and error adjustment most heads have a small bolt that will hold the head angle without tightening the top bolt also leave the lower bolt loose so the head can pivot around it. When you are all done the truck, trailer, and WD should all be parallel to the ground - ie level. My WD hitch is an older EAZ Lift and they said to use no fewer that 2 and no more than 4 links This also gives you some adjustability if your loads change. I usually plan on spending a good 1/2 day adjusting things. On my last TT the dealer left my hitch too low and then cranked the WD bars up to four links and they almost touched the TT frame - my 35mi ride home was really white knuckle. My next tow I set the bars lower and things were better. Then I sat down and did my full routine and ended up raising the hitch ball up to the next set of holes. and put the head at full tilt and now use 2-3 links over on the chains and the ride is now easy - no more white knuckles. Yes I do have a 2500 so my sag is less - I am also towing a 31'TT that weighs around 8000 lbs and probably close to 1000lbs on the tongue. I am using 1000lb bars - I also know from past experience that I really should have 1200 or 1400lb bars - that will be part of my next hitch - which may be something like a Blue Ox or Equal-I-zer brand.
  4. Find a dealer that has a GM Certified Fleet Department - they know trucks inside and out as 90% of their business in in them. I have used the same Fleet buyer for my last 3 trucks and he has never had any issues with placing my orders. Now waiting for the trucks to be built and delivered - that is another story
  5. It could also be a bad switch module in the driver's door - has something been spilled on them? Next choice would be something in the cabin computer module. These things are all digital now and switches no longer close the circuit - they send a message to the computer and it actually closes the switch.
  6. Did you have the all terrain tires selected? That would appear to be the only restriction. The Z71 does change the shocks and adds hill decent control as well as adding skid pads. I could care less about the shocks and hill decent so I just added the skid plates to my std truck.
  7. Opinions on towing?

    Time for a reality check here - your 2500Denali with the DMax has enough power to tow just about anything you could hitch to it. But you assumptions are full of holes and some of the rest of the advise here is also for the birds. According to the GM trailering guide: The total amount the truck and trailer can weigh fully loaded is defined by the CGWR or combined gross weight rating - for the DMax this is around 25,000lbs. In addition to the CGWR is the GVWR of the truck itself - this can be measured by taking the fully loaded truck and trailer to a scale and weighing each axle and then adding the front and rear axles together - this is the GVWR - if this is under the number listed on your driver's door sticker - you are OK - the final test is to look at those axle wts and insure that they are also under the ratings shown on the door sticker. Airbags will help with the rear end sag, Heavier rated tires will handle the weight better - but neither will increase any of the gross weight ratings. I realize that engineering likes to have some room to spare with these wt ratings - I also know that marketing does not care about headroom - I also know that marketing usually wins the battle. So how to you determine your actual towing capacity without trial by error. One method I like is to take the three main not to exceed numbers (GVWR truck GVWR trailer, CGWR truck and use them as starting points. First I subtract the GVWR of the truck from the CGWR and use that as a guide for the GVWR of the trailer. I know this sounds drastic - but it get you thinking in very realistic terms and gets around the marketing hype. You have to remember that their "tow ratings" include the entire payload of the truck - they did not account for the hitch, passengers, or gear in the truck. While you may not like to crunch numbers (addition and subtraction are hard) your other alternative is to go ahead and tow over you limits and have you checkbook ready for when you crash and your insurance won't cover you because you were overloaded.
  8. 6.0 Towing capabilities

    With the load in the truck you are not going to want a 1/2 T and perhaps a 1T would handle the load better. I towed a 6000 lb TT for 10 yrs with the gasser, six speed, and 4.10 gears. The sweet spot for my rig was 4th gear and between 3500 and 4000 RPM which yielded a speed of around 55MPH. As long as I could maintain the REVS it pulled great. Now I tow close to 8000 lbs of TT with a DMax and love not having to rev it up to keep speed - and being able to recover if I lose momentum on a grade.
  9. purchasing a new 2500 sierra

    While I know that buying the first year of anything can be risky - but I bought the first 2007 HD with the 6 speed tranny and the first integrated trailer brake controller - all performed without issues for 10yrs. Now I bought the first generation of the LP5 DMax - so far so good. I really felt good when I watched Gale Banks Performance tear one down and compare it to the previous version - the difference was astounding - and all for the good - Gale said that he could get another 20% out of it using the existing parts and a quick tune - just a fuel pump, injector, and turbo tweak. He said the lower end bearings were all over designed and he loved the new intake manifold design. This kind of talk coming from such a respected name in diesel powerplants gives me even more confidence that my new truck will tow my new TT well into the future. I know I only have a little over 12k right now it will get more on her in a few years when I retire.
  10. That is a nicely equipped truck for towing a trailer - I checked and the trailering mirrors are part of the DMax Plus Pkg - which is a great deal for Crew Cab trucks. My 2500 Chevy Double cab is an LTZ (sim to SLT) with the convenience package, heated, cooled seats etc. I got mine with employee pricing for around 60K w/o trade - so I can see where the dealer could get it to 59,000 with a decent trade where they can re-coop any losses on the deal. Other than that - there is no real incentive for them to give away a truck - there will not be a new HD till late 2019 or early 2020.
  11. Towing trouble

    Jon - I think that you are the one who is biased. The equalizer video showed the difference between air bags and a WD hitch on a bumper pull trailer. They set the hitch height and lowered the trailer, measured all the weights and heights, inflated the air bags to bring the rear back to the original height and measured the weights on the wheels. Then did the same thing with a WD hitch and showed the difference. Where is the bias? I have tried towing a similar trailer to the OP with a Tahoe - it did the same thing. I did try stiffer shocks, and tires - the end solution was actually a slightly larger WD bar set and setting it up better. In the end I traded the Tahoe for a 2500HD and never looked back. I do agree that there is a time and place for air bags - esp when the load is in the bed (not on the bumper) so for a camper or 5th wheel they would probably work well - but then there are also Timbrins that do a similar function for those applications - do you have an opinion on them?
  12. Towing trouble

    Without good weights it is really hard to say where your problem is. WD hitches have different size spring bars - having the right size is important. Too light of a bar will not be able to lift the wt of the hitch and truck cargo. Some hitches like Equalizer and Blue Ox also have additional friction to reduce lateral movement that creates sway. Air bags will help with sag but not help with the transfer of wt to the front wheels. Equalizer did a great video on this - without bias - check you tube. Now most dealers I have experienced do not set up these hitches correctly my last one set the ball too low and tried to make it up with the bars - the 40 miles to home were horrible - the rig was very twitchy and got worse with speed. At home I went back over the hitch setup - raised the ball and now it handles like a dream. I suggest that your get out and follow the instructions that came with your hitch. The other thing you need to be aware of is that your Tow Rating INCLUDES all of the payload capacity of the truck, and that tongue wts on trailers do not include batteries or the LPG in the tanks - consider that around 100 lbs or more that is directly on the tongue in addition to the wts posted. Water tank positioning also makes a difference to the tongue wt. When you visit your scales - weigh the truck getting each axle - try to have a full tank of fuel and perhaps your family. When you take the trailer do not have any WD equipment attached and again weigh each axle (the trailer set can be weighed as one, but having separate wts is nice). Things you should notice with the trailer - the truck's rear axle will gain wt and the front axle will lose wt. For practical purposes the total tongue wt is the lost wt of the front axle added to the gain of the rear axle. Out of all of this you need to make sure that you don't exceed any of the Gross Ratings - that includes the Vehicle and both axles.
  13. GM really does not want to take special orders as it takes extra work to insure that the right parts and pieces are on the assembly line at the correct time to make it. They prefer to turn out lots of the same thing with perhaps a few variations on it. I waited 12 weeks for my 17 2500HD LTZ DMAX - ordered it in Dec - picked it up in April. It took until late Feb to get a build week scheduled. BTW The latest I have ordered a GM Vehicle was May - that was for an 89 Astro - got it in about 6wks. Lots has changed in the industry since then and now with a major model change coming things are probably even worse.
  14. 3 Camera System

    Glad you had a good outcome. So you got the two mirror cameras and the one in the center brake light - right. I still don't have mine installed yet - way too wet here in Portland.
  15. A couple more items to consider - I did a gear change on an old S10 back in the 80's and it was just under 1k to go from 3.08 to 3.73 which was the largest I could go without changing housings - I suspect that here the best you could do is 3.42 as the 3.73 comes only in the NHT HD Towing Pkg. and it is in a different axle housing. Also changing diff gears on a 4x4 means doing both of them - it also means new seals and bearings and you need to find a person who knows about how to set the lash on the gears - it is an art. As others have suggested - make sure that the diffs are indeed 3.08 - double check the options list - sometimes a gear change is part of a tow package or just on its own. Remember that your Tow Rating includes all of the Payload - which is around 1800 lbs. As others have said the 3.08 is good for a total towing of 6200 lbs A trailer of that size should have a tongue wt around 800lbs (closer to 1000 lbs with batteries ,LPG, and whatever you put into the front cubbies). So with a 6200lb trailer you would have around 800lbs for you and your passengers and cargo. I have towed a 5800 lb tt with a 99 Tahoe and it was no fun - yes I know the 5.3 makes more HP and Torque than the 5.7 in that rig and the 6 spd is better than that old 4 spd - but that rig was a real dog to drive both on the flats and in the mountains here in Oregon. I did have a huge improvement when I went to a 2500HD 6L 6 spd 4.10 gears. My advice is to scale back your trailer to something in the 4500 lb Dry Wt range (remember until you weigh it you are not sure how much it weighs). Even then I would be prepared to gear down for the hills - that engine loves to rev in the 3500-4000RPM range to make the best HP and Torque balance. Taller rear end gears would allow you to use a higher transmission gear and still maintain 50-55 MPH. With the smaller rear gears you are probably going to have to use lower gears to get the RPMs up and you will be going slower. Good Luck
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