2017HD

I recently had some new motor oil spill in my truck. It has the factory bedliner. Anybody have a good way to clean the resulting stain?

Sounds like the gears are not alligned/set properly. I know this stuff can be tricky and requires someone with experience to do properly. You might also consider having the metal flakes analyzed to find out what metal is grinding off.

I would go with the 1500 as it will do everything you need and will probably go to 200k with some TLC. I had an 07 2500 with the same drivetrain and never got more than 14 MPG hy empty and 8-10 city. I have no experience with the 5.3L 8 speed, my last 1/2T was a Tahoe with a gen 1 5.7L and 3.73 gears it got around 19 HY and 15 city - just don't expect it to tow 6,000 lbs.

That red light is part of the anti theft system that activates whenever you lock the truck. It does disable the radio and other ckts. It is activated when the truck is unlocked with something other than the key or fob. Sounds like that may be your problem, not the air ride.

Most dealers order HDs with Camper Mirrors as they know most folks use them for towing. As for the rest of the suspension the springs are the same, Z71 changes the shocks, tires and adds skid plates and badging.

My 07 2500HD gasser with 4.11 rear gears got no better than 14 Hy and 10 City with towing my 6k TT 9-10. My new 17 2500 duramax gets as much as 24HY and 13 City and 11 to 12 towing my new 8k TT.

All 4WD truck have the Off Road display - it is not activated from the factory however you can select it from many available screens in the DIC. Skid plates can be added if needed - as for the Hill Decent control I am not sure if it is something that can be programmed in or not. I know that there is a need for a switch to activate it.

I just got an e-mail from CarFax stating there is a recall on my 17 Silverado HD DMax for a block heater short. I recently had the new cord from the previous recall done. Anybody else know about this new block heater short?

on my 07 the actual module was located on the frame rail behind the drivers side rear tire.

Apparently there is a TSB out about this related to the need to re-program a module in the steering column. If not done in time the module needs to be replaced. Just read about this on another forum. A camper was stranded when he went to start his new truck to hitch up and go home and it failed to start. Ended up being towed to a dealer for replacement of the module - the only difference is his batteries were drained.

I think the days of having several rear end ratios is long gone - I know on my 2007 HD I was suprized to have two choices by 2008 the 3.73 was NA and only the 4.11 was offered. GM is looking at optimizing the drivetrain computer systems for the best MPG/HP/Torque combination. It also simplifies the build process. There are some times with my truck that I wish I had a 3.42 or even 3.08 for better MPG when I am not towing.

I have seen this come up in the fall/winter, my solution is to just add some coolant to the burp tank, I usually take a cup or two and the warning goes away. This has happened only twice in 3ys and 35kmi

I recently got the second letter stating that they were ready for both the emissions and the heater cord mods. This was also done in conjunction with an oil change. So far I have not noticed any real change - except that the in the past the regen raised the idle RPMs to around 1k, now they are a bit less. I think the frequency of the regens is about the same- for me it was about every 400 miles or so. Now that I have retired, I am not necessarly driving it daily and using it more for hy and towing.

Do you have a remote start? does that work? In fact that could be part of the problem - newer trucks with or without remote start have the capability of it. So you don't have to hold the key in the start position-- just spring it there for a second and let off. I would also try a different dealer or call GM directly

I love it for long downgrades - when used with the cruise control - it keeps my truck and trailer at the set speed - don't have to touch the brakes. I usually engage it along with tow/haul mode every time I tow my TT.

All I can say is OUCH - I do know what you are talking about with ghost issues that come and go. I found that it takes a very vigilant service manager to keep on GM to fix the problem. My wife's car (a Chevy Cruze) suddenly died and displayed three unrelated service systems in the DIC. The service manager and the tech both said it was probably one of the computers - but they also had to go through the gm troubleshooting tree before they could replace it. The tree included a couple of reprogramming the computers, replacing the battery cable and inspecting ground points, some sort of relay and finally the computer module - three weeks later. We did have a free rental car during this time and we received status updates from the dealer every other day. We know that they drove it around quite a bit after every repair attempt. The irony of all of this is that it probably cost GM more overall to go through all the steps rather than just replace the computer in the first place.

Good move - tool box even looks better. As for the Bar - the only sport bar I like has my favorite beer on tap and games every Sunday

The TBC in the truck is quite sensitive and it checks for resistance in the trailer brake lines - if it is too high it thinks the brakes are not connected and therefore the trailer. Which is why cleaning the contacts on both the truck and trailer helps. It could also mean that the wiring harness in your trailer is bad - or the brakes are bad.

It could also be a bad switch module in the driver's door - has something been spilled on them? Next choice would be something in the cabin computer module. These things are all digital now and switches no longer close the circuit - they send a message to the computer and it actually closes the switch.

It was there in my 17 2500 LTZ 4x4 - no Z71 - just follow the instructions in the video.

I will have to agree that the one and only time the DEF low indicator came on for the 1000mi warning I was near the middle of no where and had just fueled up. I thought I could make it back home with my trailer without another warning - I was only 150 miles from there. However I got about 75mi out and the second warning came on, by the time I got home it was threating a slow down. Added 5gal of DEF and all was good. Dealer topped off the tank at the first oil change - have not added any more since. I suspect that my selling dealer did not fully fill the tank upon delivery.

9600 trouble free miles. Had the dealer do the ECM TCM re-flash - did not really notice any changes. My daily drive to work just get it warmed up to operational temp - but I have noticed about once a tank full it does a re-gen. The exhaust gets hot and smelly - but I have yet to get the "drive more" message. It seems like the regen is able to start and start at will. I saw a video where Gale Banks did a tear down of the L5P and from what I saw and what Gale said these new engines are well built - Gale feels that there is 20% more in the engine without much work - including the bottom end. They also tore down the top end and it was equally impressive.

Yeah, mine went off in about 20min - I wish there was a way to shut them off with the remote - like tie them to the lock button.

Running lamps only come on when the headlights are on - or in the case of remote start - or when the parking lights are turned on manually. So to test things - use the light control knob to turn the parking lights on and off - make sure that all the lights go on and off with this control. They should also go on with remote start - and go off when the key is turned on - during daylight hours -but remain on at night.