Autocop

It wont shift because it doesn't know how fast it's going. You need to figure out why the speedometer isn't working and once you fix that, you won't have any moire shifting problems.

Tow/Haul mode performs two primary functions. First, it will cause the gearbox to upshift later and downshift earlier than usual, keeping the engine in its power band. This makes it easier for the vehicle to tow or haul whatever is in the back, albeit at the expense of some fuel economy. On downhills, Tow/Haul mode selects a lower gear for a stronger engine-braking effect. This reduces the demands on the brakes, which reduces the odds of the brake pads or fluid overheating. Second, the gearbox won’t shift as much as it would regularly, which helps keep transmission temperatures at a safe level. Some Tow/Haul applications even lock out the top gears for similar heat-management reasons.

Sounds like the solenoid that kicks the starter gear out to engage the flywheel is malfunctioning. The belt isn't moving because the starter isn't turning the engine at all. You can replace just the solenoid, but if you already have a new starter, it comes with it so I would just replace the whole thing. Good luck!

Like dna said, you'll definitely want to catch the antifreeze coming out, but I don't think you'll see a ton come out. There is a drain petcock on the bottom of the radiator, but your only gonna drain the radiator and nothing on the other side of the waterpump. IMO, you could do one of two things. You could just go to the parts store and get a section of 3/4 heater hose and replace the whole thing. It's not molded so you don't need a specific part number. Not saying they don'r make one for that application, but you're gonna pay less for a piece of bulk hose. If you don't want to do that, cut the hose right behind the nipple coming off the water pump, remove the bad section thats still attached to the water pump, and stick the fresh cut end on it. Make sure you replace the hose clamps as well. That end on the heater core looks like it could be a bear to get to so I would grab a pinch clamp as opposed to the worm type. I would go with option 1.

I'd say they did the best they could. Negative camber on the left side combined with negative caster on the right side would certainly make it pull right. I do agree with Grump about the negative caster reading. I would guess that it still wants to drift to the right a little bit. Generally when you have a reading like that, your lower control arm is bent slightly backwards or you have a worn out bushing. As far as the toe goes, .075 degrees on each tire isn't gonna make a difference. Looking at the current reading after the adjustment, your wheels will be ever so slightly pointed in and your steering wheel should be centered.

Front Seat Bolt - 66 lb ft Front Seat Nut - 41 lb ft

Let me start by saying this, any time you do front end work, getting the alignment checked immediately afterwards is a good idea. That being said, on this particular truck, nothing you replaced should have changed the angles at all. Looking at the printout, like with most alignments, the only thing they may have adjusted was the toe, and that was just to center the steering wheel. Camber and caster are both within spec, before and after, although I don't know why there isn't a before reading on the right side camber. Because I don't know what your knowledge is as far as alignments go, I will attempt to explain a few things just to clear up any confusion: -Caster: looking at the front wheels as if you're standing on the hood, caster is the angle of the wheels as they sit in front of or behind the axis point. If the wheels are in front of the axis point, that's positive caster. if they're sitting behind the axis point, that's negative caster. Caster has more to do with straight line driving stability and steering wheel return than anything else, and it will only affect tire wear indirectly as it correlates to a positive camber setting, and usually only on the outside edge. As far as having a tech customize the settings based on your driving habits, really the only application I can see that being a factor in, is circle track racing, and that's because all you do is turn left, and it would be advantageous to give the left side less positive caster to make the car want to naturally go that way. -Camber: Looking at the front wheels, camber is the angle at which the tires lean in or out at the top. Outward would be positive camber and inward would be negative camber. This is the angle that has the most effect on pull left or right. Most manufacturers specs will have the left side set more positive than the right, and that has to do with adjusting for the crown of the road. Because of the crown, vehicles will tend to pull to the right, and that's the reason for the positive compensation on the left. Camber will wear the tire edges depending on how far positive or how far negative. -Toe: looking at the front wheels as if you're standing on the hood, toe is the angle that the front edge of the tires point as compared to the back edge, left or right. Tires that point in would be positive toe (toe in). Tires that point out would be negative toe (toe out). Toe angles that are off will have the biggest effect on tire wear, causing a feathered edge depending on which direction they're pointing. When the tires aren't pointing straight, you're basically dragging the tires sideways causing that type of wear. As long as the distance between the front edge of the tire and the back edge of the tire are the same, it shouldn't cause any excess wear on the tire edge. This can however have an effect on the steering wheel being centered because of the way the wheels are pointed. -Thrust angle: This is simply aligning the front wheels to the rear wheels. There are some extreme cases where you will see a truck going down the road almost at an angle as opposed to tracking straight. If the rear axle somehow got jarred and made to point one way or the other slightly, you would match the front wheels to that same angle. This could be due to a bent frame or something like that, and instead of fixing what's actually broken, they just make the adjustment up front to minimize the tire wear.