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How can this not be criminal?… oh… I know…

If you wanted new tires or windshield wipers they would do it. If you want a new engine… they would do it… all for a price. Now, your choice of maintenance is none of their concern if it exceeds the book..

Contact GM. I did lemon law in Texas for another manufacturer.., had to go to arbitration.. but they fixed it.

Not sure… but look up on Allison website. If an “external filter”, DIY… Allison website is easy to navigate.. at least last time I checked. Iur 2017 has 98k miles, 4 transmission external filter changes… cheap insurance… we tow 10k # bumper pull about 1/2 the miles.. 65 and slower.. totally STOCK truck except new shocks, tires, filters and all fluids including the differential and transfer case.4x4… I run Michelin tires on 17”stock wheels. I upgraded at 95k to the Castrol Transynd .. huge diff pin transmission performance. I did NoT “drop the pan”… as the transmission was working flawlessly before…The other lubes are spec. So, dealers make $.. it’s their job… look at the bright side… they did not oversell… and may have filled your “blinker fluid”…

Don’t know.. but, if you touch anything electrical on this truck, be SURE the battery (s) is disconnected…negative first.. usually sufficient… YMMV can you turn them OFF in Settings! Unplug the boards… reconnect battery(s)… if no warning, or error/CEL, tape it properly… monitor for any?errors… do not ignore a problem.

Strange… a resurgence of this problem on other forums… hmm.. OTA updates?? My 2017, only 98k miles… been having these “intermittent” failures… dealer says.. “not broken””… maybe your grille guard… “ I removed it.. seemed to help, put back on, still intermittent.. hmm.. So.. after reseating every connector on body, under hood and in dash, still gives”Service Trailer Braking System”… and it dings and dings… stops then does it again… just driving down the road… when it gives that error and sings, the “Park” button on dash console fails to illuminate or cause change in behavior Of the system. Whatever you do… do NOT jump another vehicle…. Maybe. One t the cables to charge, but do NoT let them try to turn on or start their vehicle. Just sayin…

What condition is truck? Mileage? It is possible you have a bad head gasket? Yes. more likely, in really hot weather the h2O boils off… Also, if new, hoses can expand a bit under pressure.. if this is a 6.6 diesel, the reservoir/coolant overflow is waaaay different and you don’t want to vent unless you are sure of the procedure.

Collision avoidance includes a “seat shaker”… is that what you are feeling?

Have you checked the driveline? Bad ujoint, differential sound? Get it on a lift where you can operate with wheels off the ground… Has mileage changed? All stock? Mileage? Tires balanced? Steering wheel stable? Just noise or feel in the seat/steering wheel? Have you had the steering he led for loose/worn? Pitman is a classic, especially if truck “lifted” or oversized or incorrect tires… I think it’s worth investigating.

Strange… my “parking” alerts always failing. Dealer couldn’t fix… last week started getting the dreaded “Service Trailer Braking System”.. keeps dinging.. the “park” button on console has a light that is supposed to give status on/off… it goes dark after start and the STBS warning. Dealer (same that failed at first, warranty) gave NTF, no trouble found. Told me to bring my trailer and they will diagnose… but it isn’t a TRAILER problem!!! So, gotta fix myself. I have blue driver a long time. Found C1117 set. Cleared… that code has not set again…. I have gone over the truck, reseated everything… except the ECM connectors… did not want to force. All other functions work. i went into Settings and disabled the crash avoidance, etc. will see tomorrow if that stops ther constant barrage. dealer said they can’t test the truck without the trailer… that’s not correct. There is a module to connect to 7way..where trailer plugs .. simulates a trailer.. or at least something connected.. after reseating Every accessible connector in engine compartment, dash and body, verifying no corrosion or damage, cleaning batteries and all cables from it… same error. Bottom line… I think GM got away with not fixing the problem.. anyone know where the module for the Parking sensors is?

A concern with “used” vehicles is you don’t know what happened to it in previous life. some put larger tires, ride hard and off-road, sometimes pushing it hard. This accelerates wear. so.. bite the bullet, realize these pitman, gearbox, are weak points, replace all the moving parts.. ball joints etc. if you run bigger than stock tires, save $ to do this again down the road

Yup. If one is failing… i would change all

nice ..

Maybe he made some $$$$ on the deal…??

You “can” if it meets tow rating… but the computer will not be happy.. don’t drive over 45 until you repair properly

Ford has better idea… again. A switch for front/rear tank… but that put’s responsibility on whoever is steering

Ours seems to do similar.. check the door gaskets for wrinkles.. slam strips of paper in a few places.. should have some resistance..

Yes. Especially if you off-road, or have modified the suspension or larger tires, etc.. there are “upgrades” to look in to.. pick your wallet size. I have to remove the plastic engine shield to access the grease zerks. So, I purchased an extension hose.. now I just pop under and give her a grease squirt. Remember to purge the grease hose before install.

Agree to previous comments and thanks for the detailed Electrical operation. All voltage references in this post are positive VDC unless noted otherwise. 2017 having some “strange, transient”” issues”… it “seemed” the problem is electrical…voltage when off, measured at batteries was 12.4 or so. When running, voltage would “creep up” to around 14.7 then reduce to 13.8 all measurements by VOM meter… or OBDII port. Based upon above description of electrical system, things seemed ok… then I noticed the voltage meter in the DIC was gradually showing lower voltage, just over 13VDC. March 2021 replaced the batteries. AGM. Truck stopped having most of the problems I was perceiving. Until September, 2022, 17 months into the new batteries life. I had seen the voltage dropping lower and lower, over several months, slightly below the near 14 normal. This would hold fairly steady while driving… something 200miles between key cycles. Clearly the original “charging / electrical system” was slowly dropping hints. I kept a wary eye on the gauge as the “transient” electrical gremlins worked their deeds. On Monday 26SEP2022, I was under the hood checking fluids and cable connections, hoses, etc. I observed at that time that the “Cell Seal plugs” on the AGM battery were pressing up against the plastic label which helps retain the seal and prevent overflow. I found both batteries had these “protruding” seals on some of the cells, other cell plugs were fully seated. Having a physical inspection done at the store where purchased they confirmed the batteries were failing. I drove home so the truck would not be disabled where it might get towed. I removed the batteries correctly, transported, swapped then returned and installed the “new” batteries. NOTE: once removed, the batteries had discernible “bowing outward” of the case walls.. a sign of possible internal battery issue. New batteries case sides were straight. When I tapped the negative terminal to the battery there was a strong “electrical pop” sound … one time. While cleaning and applying very light dielectric to the connectors, I completed install of all cables. Static voltage 12.5 by VOM.. hmm… truck key in, voltage held after KEY RUN. DIC was approximately correct. KEY Start, fired better than before and settled to nice idle.. better..!!! (noT my imagination.) Voltage climbed to over 14 gradually, settling around 14.5.. (DRL on), AC, radio, all powered on…good. Took my Bride in the truck for a 35 minute ride then a stop for 15 minutes…voltage 12.6… another drive for 5 miles and 30 minute stop. Volt gauge at 12.6 and to just over 14.4 when running dropping to 14.2 in 35 miles home. Voltage around 12.7 last night and this morning. This morning check showed static 12.8, truck start clean and showing slightly over 14 after a few seconds. This delay was explained one time as normal as the electrical system was monitoring while gradually increasing voltage. I checked with VOM at 14.2 then down to 13.4 then up to 14.5 where there were slight fluctuations of about 0.8 volts for 2 minutes, settling at 13.7 +-0.09 for 3 minutes then shutdown. NOTE: the voltage remained within .05 when I transmitted on my mobile amateur radio… with no other symptoms presenting.. (this was also under a metal roof building.. so plenty of possible errant RF induced behavior.) NET: 1- get and learn a VOM 2- monitor gauges well 3- know your truck voltage via the VOM!!! The “gauge” is an appropriate and provided by the ECM… “Trust but Verify” 4- pop the hood and check your batteries.. (at least we can do that for now… wait until the “car batteries” start popping off)1 peace..

“They all do that”… so, driving and start/stop of truck will usually recalibrate. Happens whenever the batteries power removed.

They all do that. there are, I have been informed, some tiny wires under the driver’s seat which vibrate. These wire “go intermittent” or completely fail. This usually necessitates repair by driver seat removal or garden gnome size repair guy… wires can sometimes be fixed…

There is a harness on the Leer, inside driver side rear of topper. There are fuses there. My 3rd light was failing due to poor connection at the harness. There is a set of “mini fuses” under a cover. Remove, clean and lube then recheck

What does 'refreshed' truck mean? Mid-year changes?

2017 2500HD L5P where do we find the modules and electrical connector locations and schematics

My PA worked irregularly from new… service instructed “normal”. Not! installed new Software, started acting up even at highway speeds would alert proximity!! Service said..”huh-interesting- working as designed- not our problem because system is not intended to warm in all situations “ when winter temps got to 50 F they started working almost perfectly. GM has a problem…