jweezy

Sorry man, but you'll have to wait a few more months for this. I ended up having to deployed so I wasn't able to get that done. But I am definitely looking forward to cutting that caliper too. If anything, I would still feel safe grinding down half of that bump. But that still doesn't solve the issue of needing a spacer. I was running a set of 3/8 inch spacers in the front at first with 2 inch spacers in the rear. That took care of the offset pretty good.

No I completely appreciate this type of back and forth, it makes multiple minds work together. And by the back half, I meant the half without the rib. And yes, you are right, there's always that one time

Maybe, but if that's the case, wouldn't the inside half of the caliper have the same reinforcements? The rear half actually has less metal in the design, you could actually see the outline of the piston cups. I still plan on cutting the front half down the middle to see how thick the metal actually is on the oil passage part of the caliper. I'm no engineer and I don't have access to those documents, so I won't and can't tell you what GM engineers were thinking or why they designed something a certain way. What I will say is that these calipers look pretty similar to older Brembo caliper designs, but I'm also not saying that they are just that. Either way, what I'm trying to do is provide other people here with some actual measurements and answers to the wonders of these calipers. Being that automotive hydraulic brakes only apply around 400 lbs psi during light to medium use, if there is enough metal there, then there should be no worries about having brake fluid burst the side of the caliper. As far as it flexing under pressure, I can't say much about that either. Unless, I fully grind down and install the caliper, apply brake pressure and take measurements of it to see if there was any flex. Now if you are a GM engineer or have access to such documents, then my apologies and please share the info, it would definitely save me the headache and save everyone else on here the time on trying to find the actual answer to this mystery.

So I ordered a caliper off of ebay to further research this whole hump issue we all have with the new calipers. I actually took them apart and there is nothing behind the piston! So I decided to grind the hump and I actually grinded it all the way flat! I'm still going to drill the caliper through the small passage from inside the piston cup to see how thick the sidewall still is.

So obviously, I'm having the same predicament with my wheels and calipers. I decided to order a used caliper from ebay and I'm going to drill and sand down the hump to see how much metal is there. I've ran a 3/8's hub centric spacer and I'm currently on a 1.25" hub centric spacer. Still, the bigger spacers cause some rubbing and the smaller spacer takes up too much of the wheels stud to where there isn't much threads left. Obviously I'm not happy with the outcome of either spacer but in short I'll post pictures as soon as I get this caliper.

Last year I made a deal with Mechman Alternators and installed a 370 amp Alt and the tensioner set up from ICT Billet. The set up works great but at the time that I was provided the kit it literally had no instructions. The pulley on the tensioner and the idler pulley have to be swapped before installed. They provide the correct size belt p/n on their site. Obviously I did a whole alternator upgrade so there was more to my install than just installing the new tensioner and idler pulley but everything works just fine. I'll link the install video I did on the whole set up in case anyone is interested, the video is a little long considering theres a few issues you run into trying to upgrade/R&R your alternator. I tried to provide everything in that you would need in the video. Also, if you have any questions I'm here to help.

That sounds really good! I'm only 36 so I still have a lot of motor head left in me!!! HAHAHA

LLJ Customs makes a t-harness that will connect right into your factory plugs behind the glove box.

Whats the outcome with the sound? When I started my build I needed something fast so I cut out the resonators and swapped out the muffler for a Flowmaster 40. Not too bad but I do get some drone and if I want to do another 4 hour long drive in the truck the drone does have a tenancy to get annoying...

Thanks for the update man! I'm gonna look at getting a 35 under there also. Probably buy 5 and change out the tires on my stocks as well for when i take it onto the rocks

Were you able to fit this just fine? Any pics?

Late to this post but here are some pictures of my 2019 LTZ Z71 6.2l. Every thing was done before heading out to SEMA 2019. Still have some more things to add to it like custom emblems and tailgate letters, getting rid of all the chrome. Going to be doing some custom audio real soon too. You can find me on Instagram sd_yeti_6.2

Did you get the transmission tuned as well or just the PCM?

Nope I have not. I was hoping you had gotten around to it so I would know if this was a possible solution. I'm trying to find a way to get more power as well, gonna need it to feed the audio system I plan to install

Your D 4.800 should have the capability to clean that up. Where did you gram your signal from and what is the dsp set up to? I'm about to do the same speaker set up on my doors, I've always liked the way Kappa's have sounded. I ordered the 20mx 3 way add on and I'm gonna try to go full active with the DM 810 off of two T1000x5ad. Got any pictures of the sub set up you have?