Spurshot

I think the point is that reporting the issue contributes to a national database of issues. NHTSA will determine whether it is a safety issue, based on the consequences of the failure and the frequency of failure. It's kinda like your doctor reporting flu in his patients to CDC.

I did replace my lines. I think I bought them all at GMPartsGiant.com. Either them or GMPartsDirect.com. Just plug in your model data and it'll lead you to the parts. Get the stabilizing bracket as well. As to whether to reclaim the Freon, the law says you can't vent it. But if it leaks out on its own, you're good to go.

If you need help, PM me. I'm no expert, but I've gone thru this and other AC issues over the years and have been servicing my own systems for about 10 years now. Of course, you should have a good set of gauges/hoses, a good AC vacuum pump, a thermometer, a can tap, and a digital kitchen scale, as a minimum. That's a few hundred dollars worth of equipment as a minimum. But it'll pay back over the years. I recommend Robinair equipment.

I'm glad there's a reliable solution on the horizon.

2 oz is about right. 46 or 100 is fine. Make sure it'll hold a vacuum. 22 oz f R134a

Some diodes have fat leads. Sharpen the end.

Does it make it well lit to work under the hood?

I can beat that... My pointer retrieved a dried out dog turd and left it in my then new truck. Sorry no pix. But you get the picture . LOL

I spent about $500 on parts, installing a second battery in my 2008 truck. The cost is dependent on whether you go with automatic charging management, manual charging management, quality of the components, method of battery isolation/connecting.

The issue with a dedicated high beam only HID lamp is the warm up time. That's why you don't see them used this way in OEM installations.

I have background as a manufacturing engineer from a past life. My guess, from reading this thread, is that there are stresses in the panel when cold formed in a press. When the panel is assembled and welded to the inner bed structure, the panel is subjected to additional stresses and relief of stresses by clamping and bending edges to fit the adjacent panel. And finally, some stresses are induced or relieved as installed and used on the truck. You can often see these manufacturing stress areas under the hood or inside the bed up in the corners, where the factory didn't take the time to develop and refine the stamping dies to remove 100% of the ripples. I'm not saying it's acceptable for a finish exterior panel. But I believe it is a stamping stress induced issue. Another area of this is around the door handle pockets. Look at them critically and you'll get your blood pressure up.

BTW, the dealer I bought the truck from is 100 miles away and a local dealer wanted $133.

Thanks much. It worked first time. I had asked the dealer for a 3rd set of keys when I bought the truck. They mailed a fully cut key to me with a new FOB. I had programmed GMT800 and 900 keys, but not a K2. I thought I had read where the K2 couldn't be programmed without dealer equipment, so it sat in the drawer for 3 years. Now, I've misplaced a set and need a second set. Thanks again.

Can any other than the dealer program a key? How much? I already have a key that's cut and a working FOB. I just need the ignition key programmed.

Years ago I bought some kumho AT tires for my 2500. They were LR E but the sidewalls were really flexible. It was downright dangerous at highway speed. It was like driving a boat. There was so little tread stability that the truck had a delayed steering response. I returned them asap. Scariest thing I drove in a long time. I don't believe this is an issue that gets better. You may get use to it. But it's still there. My current tires are cooper st Maxx LR E. They are stable at high speed even for a large sidewall off road tire. I've also had good experience with Toyo Open Country AT tires. As for noise you won't really know how noisy a tire will be until you get to the second half of tread life. My experience is that mud tires get really noisy when they get in their latter part of wear. I think noise is the cost for aggressive tires.

Good news. The ac system held vacuum overnight. Update: charged the system and it cools perfectly. I have all new hoses/lines, "the bracket", and a new compressor. Hope it holds together for at least a few years. A few experiences to share... I have a few Freon can taps. One from Mastercool was leaking all around the stem of the valve and the body. I could not tighten the packing anymore. I tossed it. It was near new. My high side gauge coupling is a Mastercool quick connect. I pressure tested it in some water. It was leaking at the underside of the knob and there's no way to fix that. I ordered Robinair couplers. I'm getting an aversion to Mastercool products. Me thinks they've gone Chinese.

I pulled my condenser thinking I may have a leak after having a compressor seal go bad and still having a leak after compressor and line changes. I vacuum and pressure tested the condenser to 100 psi. No leaks. I reassembled, hooked it all up and vacuumed it down. Still leaked very slowly. Traced it to my high side gauge hose.

Welcome to the Guns, F/A, & Hunting forum. Don't forget the hunting side of this forum.

If someone has the Helm Manual, could I impose for the schematic reference for the air conditioning clutch circuit?

I sent one off to be force-fetched for a month once. The boss said 'never again'.

Momma gonna let you take him pheasant hunting?

A work around would be to do the 10-18 mod, then put a switch between the fog harness and the relay for the light bar. This would allow disabling the light bar when the high beams are used.

NO! Think of a resistor as a flow restrictor orifice and a diode as a one way check valve.

You guys having difficulty inserting the diode may want to try sharpening the lead with a file or snipping it on a steep angle like mentioned above. Also, try moving around the socket/pin to another side. These sockets/pins can be pulled over to one side or another. Another thing to look at is the gauge (diameter) of the lead on the diode. Some are smaller than others. I don't think the diode size is critical in our application. Buy a smaller one.

Costco in my neighborhood does it gratis as well.