Doug_Scott started following GMC Yukon 2001 does not always pulse injectors first start attempt, 2008 Sierra turn signal issue HELP!, About to buy - Towing question(s) and and 7 others
You are likely confusing the parking lights with the turn signal lights. They do both use the same bulb, but, they use their own filament inside each bulb. First thing to try is to remove all the signal bulbs, at both ends of the truck, and then look inside the socket for damage or green crap. If all is good, put 4 ways on and put bulbs back in, one at a time, until the fuse blows. If the fuse blows right away, you are in for a lot of work, unless you get very lucky and find it right away. You already know it is on the left side, so that removes half of the wiring. A "short" is a lot easier to locate compared to an "open". A short means the wire is touching ground at some point. Look for spots where the wiring harness is rubbing against metal, or where it is next to the sharp end of a screw. Do not pull at the wiring until you find the area the short is in. If you twist and pull at the harness you may "fix" it, but only temporarily. You want to find the short to fix, not have it go away for an hour or so. Pay attention to spots in the harness where it attaches to the body with straps or zip ties.
You have "seen" a case, or read about a case online? There is a big difference between the two. Someone online will rarely if ever admit they did something wrong, and will tell the tale in the way that makes them the victim. Then again there are those that had warranty denied on their Raptors that the frame bent on. The ones I read were clearly the owners being victimized by Ford.
We already have a valid example of what it could look like to drive a 100% electric vehicle across the country. Tesla. They have their own recharge network, and if you look at their system you will see it currently costs 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of gasoline to refuel their vehicles. People are reacting to this poll as though it meant they were going to announce today that tomorrow all electric would be the only thing available. If you think being forced to pick a brand when you chose Never skewed the poll numbers, looking at this poll as though there was no thought given to all scenarios skews the numbers more. It wasn't that long ago that electric vehicles were lucky to get 60 mile range, with recharging taking 4 or 5 times longer that what you got in travel time. Tesla has shown that we are now at an acceptable distance/recharge rate. Going forward we will need to create storage cells (batteries) that are 100% rebuildable and all components be recyclable. Have light diesel engine(engines for pickup trucks) manufacturers corrected the high cost of maintenance/repair of the injection systems yet? It seems that just about everyone knows of someone who has been hit with a $5k+ bill to repair injection pumps or injection systems at 100,000 miles. I would switch to electric if the pricing was more in line with reality. The current return on investment is too upside down for me. I am at the age where realistically the next vehicle purchase will very likely be the last new vehicle purchase for me. I have not been a fan of purchasing used vehicles for many decades, being a mechanic has meant no vehicle repair costs beyond the parts for me, but even that got old. My current truck is the oldest vehicle I have owned, ever. And it has just turned 10 years old. New vehicles come with warranty.
Chances are whatever is causing your issue likely helped take the battery out. Pull the fuse panel under the hood and flip it over. Look for corrosion on all the connections. If it is bad, you will see white powder around the connections. What gauge wire did you use for the grounds? Did you pull the battery ground cable from the engine and twist the lug connector around looking for white powder to come out? If the insulation is starting to bulge, cut the bulge and you will see corrosion. Any ground wires that you add should be at least 10 gauge. The battery ground cable should be big enough to handle the big amperage circuits. Remember if you add another ground wire to a specific location, it must be big enough to handle the amperage back to ground.
Forgot to mention, if your truck has cruise control, set it for the speed that your issue appears at, does it do the same thing? If you just touch the brake pedal and apply a small amount of pressure you will find out exactly how far you have to press the brake with your foot still on the gas. Cruise control shuts off around the time the brake lights come on. You still need to have your foot on the gas to test the lockup converter, testing with cruise control is just to show you how hard you need to apply the brakes. If your foot is off the gas, that negates the test.
Did you check by just looking at the fuse, or did you use a test light touching the legs of the fuse? You can test for power on the top of the fuses, they all have access to the legs from the top of the fuse. 40psi is plenty of oil pressure. On vehicles with idiot lights, the light will come on when it drops below 10psi. Back in the old days(50 years ago) the oil pressure lights came on below 7psi. Years ago Fords had their oil and temp gauges with the acceptable range marked out and the word Normal under that range.
To be clear here, you do not need to "hit the brakes", you just need to depress the pedal far enough to make the brake lights come on. It will be about a half inch of pedal travel. Can you record this happening and post it to you tube?
Of all the gaskets used on an engine, the head gasket is always replaced, every time. As for head bolts, if they are torque to yield, replace them. Anytime I saw a torque spec with a "plus x degrees" after the last torque value given, it got new head bolts. Not worth the risk when you work under flat rate and have to eat the labour on a comeback.
The line says says MAX, not Fill to Here. There should be two lines I would think, MAX and MIN. Keep the level between the lines, and make sure you are checking the level at the temperature the manual says to check it at. Usually the MAX is with the engine at normal operating temperature. When cold, the level will not be at MAX.
Disconnect the ground cable at both ends and grab the lug at end of cable and twist it in all directions, looking for any white powder coming out of cable right where the black plastic insulation ends. Do this at both ends. Also look under where the relay is plugged in for corrosion.
It sounds more like you have replaced all the parts in the engine cooling fan system without actually testing anything. Put the wallet away and start diagnosing. The engine cooling fan will only come on after the engine reaches a certain temperature, or after the a/c system reaches a specific pressure in some systems, or as soon as the clutch engages on the compressor. You could unplug the pressure switch and connect the two wires together to get compressor engaged to see if the fans engage. You should have checked for power at the fans, as well as the grounds in the same connector. You will need to check all connections all the way back to fuse panels. You did check fuses didn't you?
How long are you holding the key in the start position? Do you turn the key to the run position, stop for a second or 2, then continue turning the key to the start position and hold it there for 5 seconds while it cranks? You may think you do that, but, if you try watching how you start the truck you may be surprised at how short of a time the key is in the start position.
Yes you can, but, you are effectively making 2 "gear" changes. I was brought up to limit changes to just one at a time when troubleshooting. Besides, touching the brake pedal does not require you to look at the shift quadrant while downshifting.
The post from tlaw91 regarding TCC acting up brings up a good point, and should be real easy to verify. When it starts acting up, just touch the brake pedal with your left foot, only press hard enough to turn the brake lights on. Pressing the brake pedal will unlock the torque converter. Keeping your foot on the gas pedal will show you pretty much right away if that is the issue. The engine should increase in speed, without having to downshift. The trick is to just leave your right foot where it is on the gas pedal, and only press the brake pedal a very small amount.
Your truck has knock sensors on it. When they detect a sound in the engine casting(you can create a ping or knock due to timing/lower octane fuel than your manual specs) it will try programmed reactions to make it go away. It will reduce timing first, then it will alter the fuel mapping to make it stop the pre-ignition. If you have a scan tool that can display the amount of timing retard the PCM is setting. The retarding timing will kill your economy. Are you buying your gas at always the same station? Its not unusual for today's fuels to become "stale" in a short period of time. If you always use the same station, run your tank to near empty, and refill at the same brand fuel station, and put the same fuel you always use. Run that tank to empty and see if there is any change. Intake manifolds main job is to route air to the correct cylinder. Managing the coolant is not the job to check on. Check for vacuum leaks at each port where the intake runner meets the cylinder head. You can use a propane bottle with a welding tip installed. Open the valve, and don't light it. With the engine running and cold, start it and with the propane tank and nozzle go around each port as best as you can. If the engine changes sounds or speeds or both, that is pointing you to the correct cylinder. Repeat this test on a fully warmed up engine the same way. A vacuum leak can make the cylinder to run lean, causing cylinder temps to run hotter. So much hotter it can even make parts inside the combustion chamber to start glowing red. That glowing part will ignite the fuel way before the spark plug is made to fire. That becomes pre-ignition or spark knock.
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