Doug_Scott started following 2014 Silverado 1500 LT 4X4 4.6L getting code P06DA
I would suggest putting the wallet away and start looking for the break in the "Engine oil pressure control circuit". Typically engine sensors have 3 wires, one ground, one power and one signal. Follow the wires back from the sensor and check every connection they go through. Most likely a bad/dirty connection at one of the harness plugs.
You first need to check what type of light system you have. If they are LED you can rule out bulbs by tapping on the bulb. The other types of lighting systems will have filaments which can flicker easily. If your truck is under warranty stop trying to fix it yourself, let the dealer waste the cash. Assuming you live in the northern hemisphere it is still dark enough at 5pm to show dealer how to reproduce it. Depending on opening time they may also have some time in morning. You will have to get this reported before your sunlight time gets to the point you don't have time to show the dealer. This likely didn't start last week.
Looking at MyCar website it appears to be a 3rd party device that adds some features that may or may not be part of the vehicle's factory devices. Not sure why all the "big brother hysteria" though. It has a simple plug-in connector and is out in the open so that it can be seen easily. Looks like there is zero effort applied to hide it. The MyCar website has enough information for you to figure out how to use it for whatever is not already part of the OEM equipment. If you were to contact the dealership that installed it, you could find out what the advantage is for the buying customer. It may simply be a way for the credit company to keep tabs on THEIR vehicle. Purchasing a near $100k (in Canada) vehicle with cash is hardly the norm for new vehicle purchasers.
That is the exhaust manifold. A common issue that will not have an effect on the fuel management/engine roughness. If you are hearing an exhaust leak you will want to have it repaired. This is not an easy (as in skill level) task unless the broken bolt has enough of itself sticking out of the head to allow you to use a stud extractor tool to get it out. The task ranges from being able to get the broken bolt out just by removing the exhaust manifold to having to remove the cylinder head and having a machine shop get the broken bolt out. If you cannot hear an exhaust leak, leave it as is.
Just unbolt the master cylinder from the booster and pull the master cylinder forward enough that you can either see behind it, or can get a finger behind the master to see if it is wet inside the booster. The only times I have ever had to bleed brakes at the wheels is when there was a part replaced after one of the flex hoses, or there was a complete brake fluid change to get rid of the water laden brake fluid. Bench bleed the master before changing it, and leave the bleeder lines on (assuming they still supply a bleeder kit with master cylinders these days). Bleeding at the master after installing it is not done the same as the bleeding at the wheels. To bleed the master after installing it, do not pump the pedal, just loosen the lines, have someone press the brake pedal down and then hold the pedal down as you close off the lines. Once closed, wait 10 seconds and have the helper release the pedal. Wait another 10 seconds, then crack the lines loose about a half turn and have the helper push the pedal down slowly, making sure they don't pump the pedal. Close the lines as the fluid comes out, and have the helper release the pedal after you have tightened the lines. It should only require a couple of bleeds to get a good pedal.
Did this just happen one morning, or has the truck been sitting for a long time and you have little to no historic information on it? All internal combustion engines need 3 things to run, fuel, spark, and compression. Check compression on engine. Check timing by putting engine at TDC on number 1 cylinder and check the timing marks on crankshaft. While you are turning the engine by hand, watch the ignition rotor and turn in one direction until the rotor moves, then rotate engine the other way until the rotor turns. How far did you turn the crank between those two points. This test is best done at TDC #1 cylinder so you can mark the timing marks at the point where the rotor stats to move. You say you put a new distributor in, did you mean a complete distributor, or just the cap and rotor? Take the rotor off and look at the underside of the rotor, if you see any black marks replace it.
I have a friend that is a retired GM employee, he bought a 04 Sierra SLT Ext cab in late 03, dealer had the factory ordered truck in under 2 weeks(helps that we are 10 miles from Oshawa plant), his only warrantee claim was an o2 sensor that failed as he was going through a car wash. He also had his ignition key replaced because the plastic/rubbery part broke where the ring when through. Then came my truck, then he bought a 2012 SLT 4x4 4 door along with his son getting a 2012 SLE 4x4 ext cab. His son's truck had to have the leaf springs replaced due to one leaf breaking, outside of warranty. He used his 04 truck to tow an enclosed trailer for motorcycle track days. No warranty issues, and no transmission issues. My last 4 new cars where in the 2000 and onward era, they all needed front rotors before 20k. I live in the Canadian rust belt. It may help that both him and I are licensed auto mechanics(we met working at a Chrysler dealership nearly 40 years ago). I get what you are saying about the stuff you see every day. You have to remember that you don't see the cars that don't have issues, and I will guarantee there are millions more that you don't see. Your reasoning was exactly the reason I bought a new Mustang in 78 while working at a Plymouth/Chrysler dealership as a transmission mechanic, every Plymouth I saw was broken, never saw a good one.
Contrary to what has been posted, vehicles today are far better build quality than days gone by. I have bought new cars in the 70s, the 80s, the 90s, the 00s and the 10s. Everyone of those vehicles went back to the dealer for warranty repairs except the last one. Its been 10 years since I took delivery, and other than the rear window being replaced due to missing parts of the heated window strips that was noticed before I left the lot. First vehicle to not require front rotors in the first 20k, actually been 10 years, still have original rotors. There is a reason they put warranty on new vehicles. Sometimes there is a defective part. ****** happens.
Check the following Possible causes: Intake manifold leak at a specific cylinder on bank 1. Fuel injector issues at a specific cylinder on bank 1. Ignition system issues at a specific cylinder on bank 1. Cylinder compression imbalance. The most likely is a vacuum leak at the intake manifold. Take a small propane tank and use it to check around the intake manifold where it meets the head. You are looking for a change in idle speed/roughness. Since this has been going on for about a year, and started from the day you got it, I have to wonder if this was why the truck was traded in. You will want to do a complete compression check. Remove all spark plugs when doing a compression check. You are looking for a difference between cylinders. They should be fairly close to equal. Suggest you not replace anymore parts unless they test bad. Diagnosis by wallet is rarely successful. What other codes are you getting?
Its not likely going to be the head unit, but it is possible. Is the sound system completely stock? You mention rear headphones, did it come with rear headphones? If you are going with an aftermarket system pay attention to how it interfaces with the original system in the truck. Things like steering wheel controls, connecting to the CANBUS, accepting the factory wiring connectors without using universal adaptors etc. If you are going to go aftermarket, get an android system, and make sure it is at least current o/s, being ready to accept update to next android is good to have as well. 10 years ago there was not a whole lot of options for upgrading stock head unit. I got the OGM1 unit that looks very similar to the 2010 factory NAV unit. It was a complete plug in, even connected to factory backup camera. But, the head unit is only the start, you will want to change speakers, then amplifiers and subwoofer box, it will take on a life of its own. Stick with something you are able to get warranty on a well. Electronics generally fail early if they are going to fail, but if you purchased it from China, sending it back will cost more than buying another one.
RFI noise on the radio is usually a bad ground somewhere. When its only on FM radio, it can be a missing ground strap between fender and engine or even hood to body. If it is a whine that increases in in pitch that follows the engine speed, it can be the alternator having a bad component. First thing to do is look over the fuse panels if you just bought a used vehicle. Look for any add on wiring, and check all the fuses with a test light probe to each of the exposed metal contacts on the top of each side of the fuse. The noise stopping when you switch to rear headphone mode will stop the noise in the rear speakers simply because the noise is likely in the connected headphones now. What happens when you play a CD or MP3 USB stick? If the noise is only when on the radio, check AM as well. Radio RFI noise can be caused by a cut or frayed antenna cable, unplugging the antenna from the radio may correct the noise, it will also stop reception, but if the noise is gone as well, look at the cable or grounds from antenna base to battery through the body connections.
On youtube look up Precision Transmission. They post lots of videos and Richard has the knowledge of an excellent brand specific transmission specialist, except he the same way with all popular brands of vehicles. Once you verify the fluid is at proper level, and doesn't stink so bad that the wife won't let you in the house (tell her the dog got hit by a skunk, at least that way you can use the shower before she remembers you don't have a dog) take the truck for a short drive, pay attention to the RPMs. When you try to drive off, if the RPMs don't climb somewhat faster than slow, put the shifter into L (or 1) and see if that makes any difference. If when driving it seems like it never shifts, and RPMs do not go past 4k at speeds you drive at in the city, you may only have one of the last 2 gears left. Manually may make a difference, but not enough to keep driving it. If the RPMs go straight towards red line, but truck would rather just sit there, it is time spend some money. Merry Christmas. If you have a 4L80E it has a TCM. It should be storing errors codes if the transmission is electronically challenged. You don't mention mileage, but at 20 years of age, the truck does not owe you anything. Watch some of those videos before you start thinking you could just fix it yourself. Transmissions are not difficult once you have done your first 50 or so.
I am not convinced engines like being run at low rpms for the majority of their life. Way back when it was supposed to be a great car if it was owned by a little old lady that only drove it to church, but it wasn't. Those cars would break down quickly if driven hard. Cars today run at such low engine speeds on the highway that they have become the cars driven by little old ladies. Machines tend to run in/wear when run at constant speeds, engines are no different. All highways miles are great for making brakes last though.
Your not really clear on your question. If you can physically move the piston up and down and see movement between the piston boss and wrist pin, that should have grenaded long before you took it apart. The forces that occur when the piston has to stop and change direction 20 times per second at idle are immense and should have broken through the boss by now. If you mean the side to side play in the connecting rod to piston that is completely normal. I do not know what this "cap" is you mention, unless you mean the connecting rod cap. That is at the opposite end of the rod/piston assembly though. Piston slap is normally caused by the piston "rocking" in the bore as it changes direction. Short skirted pistons are more prone to piston slap, and modern engines have very short skirts compared to previous generation engines. Both Jsdirt and myself are mechanics from when things were simple. I started just before electronic ignition became common and still have my dwell gauge. Back when a matchbook came with a tool to gap points with. And BIC made pens, not lighters. With the tools and knowledge, the time to complete a job has little to do with difficulty, it just takes longer.
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