The mileage on the truck over the age of the truck with getting oil changes every 3k works out to exactly 4 oil changes a year. Just saying. No issue at all to switch to full synthetic oil now. I also agree with the previous suggestion of extending oil change interval to at least 5k. I am not a believer in the oil filter drama, have never had any first hand experience with any oil filter failures, in any filter brand. To me, any filter sold in a major auto parts store will last a lot longer that you will be going drive it.
I have always felt that the best tool for finding a squeak, rattle or even a hard start issue is the customer. Having the customer take me for a drive to show me this noise that happens all the time actually only happened on one road on his way to work. On my truck I began noticing a thump in what I thought was either the upper strut mount or even the strut itself. It only happened as I would cross Bayly Avenue heading north on Salem(not that means anything to anyone), in the cold winter days. It wasn't until one day I had a friend with me and I had the stereo on a low volume. He heard that thump sound, actually he said he felt the noise in the floor board and he thought it was in the HVAC. About a week later I had another appointment to go to that I was going to need someone to drive me home. My friend came to pick me up, and he suggested we take my truck so I could feel what he felt. Our driving habits are quite different as my warming up procedure is to start driving as soon as my seat belt is fastened, and his is to wait until there is heat to keep the ice from forming on the inside of the windows. We had only sat about 5 minutes when that thump happened while we were still parked. Turned out to be the blend air door that was sticking while it was cold, and as soon as the least amount of warm air would unstick it, making it thump. It should have been fixed while under warranty but I never got around to it.
Guess you are not interested in just stopping by one day so I can give it a listen then?, We are only about 7hrs apart. You're about one third of the way to Manitoba from Ajax where I am. You can also just pull the electrical connection from the switch on the receiver/dryer to stop the compressor from engaging. Reason for trying a brake stand isn't so much to help find what it is, but finding out what it isn't.
Not to be a smart ass, but, I think you have found out why that ambient light sensor cover was missing. Have you gone through the various settings in the DIC regarding light operation? I don't get why anyone would ever order a vehicle with DRL not installed, or nor operational. Have you checked all the fuses in all the fuse panels? Why GM didn't put them all in one location, under the hood is beyond me. Its not like there is a shortage of space. Make sure that you are checking voltages with all connections in place, an open connection will display battery voltage when tested with a voltmeter. Can you get access to a BCM scan tool? I have never used one, but would love to get my hands on one just to see what it can and cannot do.
Where in Ontario are you? Does the noise increase equal to the rpm increase, or does it jump to a "frequency" and stay there until the engine catches up to it? Make sure you have the A/C turned off by pressing the button in the centre of the fan speed knob, assuming you dash layout is somewhat close to the standard dash on the next generation pickup. Reason I mention this is my 2010 Sierra is presently creating the loudest A/C compressor "rattle" I have ever heard. You would swear the engine is going to explode. Can you create the noise by doing a "brake stand"?
OEM control arms have been made with the idea that the ball joint will never be removed, so they are made to not come apart in your driveway on a hot summer day. GM used to rivet upper ball joints in, MOOG sold bolt in replacements. Chrysler used to have a big ass socket that you had to buy in order to replace the ball joints. If you bought cheap sockets to change your ball joints on your Duster, you may get all the ball joints replaced before the socket split. I used to use a air chisel to remove both the twist in and the press in ball joints, you could not use it to put either type back successfully. If the shop did not have a press, we used to somehow scrounge some pieces of large diameter pipe and use that to MacGyver a press using the pipe, the weight of the car and a hammer to "press" it back in, without removing the control arm or the spring. Looking back at that now it was a wonder no one was ever killed doing the shit we used to do. All the design stuff that you sit and think "I wonder why they did that?", the answer is always for cost/ease of assembly. None of it is designed to be replaced at a reasonable cost, unless you have the ability to sell hundreds of thousands in the next month or so.
GM and Ford are both following the marketplace. The Volt was just too much money for what you get. GM wanted $10k to $13k more than a well equipped Cruze for the Volt the last time I looked. To me GM got the idea right. They simply copied the locomotive technology that trains across North America have been using since end of the 2nd world war. You simply do not ever drive the wheels directly with fossil fuel. The gas engine on board is to simply run a generator for the electric motors. You can't ignore the impact the unions have had on the price per unit in the cost of manufacturing. Unions today are not benefitting anyone but the union itself. I never worked in a union shop, and when I got injured at work, I got complete coverage without a single union person having to get involved. I got retraining when it was decided I could not return to my previous job. That retraining was paid for, and again, no union rep had be called. After the retraining I only applied for one job, and was hired two weeks later. I worked at that company for 7 years when it was taken over by a large US company. We were never approached to become unionized. The US company got hit hard by the fall in the telecom industry back in 00/01. They gave me enough to allow me be able to get a job that did not require a resume to apply. Again, not 1 union helped out. My point in all this, unions have run their course. In the US and Canada, unions are leeches on back of factory workers.
If you are hung up on the not being able to shift into neutral with the key in off position, insert the key, and turn it one click towards start, press the brake pedal hard(there will not be any assist) shift into neutral. You also have the option of just leaving it in neutral when you shut the engine off. Some times instructions are written by people that don't actually drive the vehicles they are writing about.
Any settlement GM gives is not related to how much is owed on the vehicle. For example, you paid 10% down on the truck when you purchased it and have made 7 months payments. You are still "upside down". You owe more than GM is willing to give. Your financial place actually owns the truck, be prepared to settle with them the same day GM settles with you. You are going to have watch what you are posting in regards to this issue as well. GM is very good at finding threads on sites like this one. Its not hard to figure out which customer had repairs that you have described in the states you posted. Just saying, watch what you post.
Having worked many years at dealerships, I would ask the customer to show me how to make the noise they are complaining about. I also had cases where the customer came with the work order. You have to understand and accept that if the technician is unable to create the noise there is no way they can fix it. The dealerships know this as well. Something I learned very early in my career is that once you hear a noise that bothers you, you will learn quickly how to get it to occur every time, it will become your "normal" way of driving. My grandfather once had a new car in the 60s that after about 6 months there was a squeak under the car. He was driving the service department nuts complaining about that squeak. Everytime he took it in, the squeak would not happen. He was going to dump the car and buy another before they finally found the issue. My grandmother used to get car sick if she rode in the front seat, so she always sat in the back. When my grandfather took the car in, he left her at home. Once he recognized that, he could get the squeak to happen with the technician in the back seat on a road test and they quickly found the issue. Google should have many examples of how the lemon law works in your state. Generally if GM is going to buy back your truck it will also come with a non disclosure agreement as well.
Sounds like the dealer is handling this. Pretty sure when you purchase a vehicle under that certified program it actually works for the customer. Chances are you just found out why the previous owner traded it in. Try to get the previous owners name and number and contact him to see if this issue was why he dealt it. You are lucky in the sense this is being covered. Do yourself a favour and stay out of the repairs. Let GM deal with it. You may find yourself in a different vehicle soon, just keep your cool, and wait until you have to get annoyed before you do. Don't jump to any conclusions.
Pretty sure what actually fixed it was cleaning or knocking the crap off battery connections. In the future, anything that makes you think it is a battery, remove cables, positive first, clean them and check where the plastic meets the cable end. If there is crap under the plastic replace the cable with a proper cable, do not just cut the end off and stick one of those 2 dollar clamp on cable end. Buy a real cable. Check both ends of the cables for corrosion under the plastic. It is easy to see, plastic should be the same diameter end to end. What I have also done over the decades is to spray coat the batter cable terminals with anything that will make if hard for anything to get between cable and post. Original used to Mopar gasket spray. It was that red sticky shit, never once used it on a gasket, but went through cases of it when working at the dealerships. Also good for re-attaching the plastic behind the door panel. Spray on rust proofing. Anything is better than nothing. Keep in mind that you are likely the one to work on it next, so stay clear of spray on bed liner.
You will want to take the distributer cap of to check the rotor for damage. Sometimes that snapping sound is the spark going through the rotor. Take the rotor off and look underneath it at the point directly under the contact point where the coil button contacts the rotor. What you are looking for is any discolouration or in severe cases a small hole burnt through. Been a few decades for me but the white rotors were particularly bad for the ease they allowed the spark to just blow through the rotor.
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