Doug_Scott started following 2019 Colorado rims for sale, 1996-2000 chevy tahoe 5.7 4 Hi Upgrade, Chevy Walks the Walk On Silverado Advertising Plan and and 7 others
Are you wanting to have your crappy low beams on at the same time as your crappy high beams in the hops that 4 crappy are actually usable? Your right side high beam looks like it may have had water in it, and has damaged the reflective background. Have you searched for replacement headlights thst take some of the old standby H4 bulbs? The relays are so common that people think that everyone knows. It's like walking into a meeting and they started without you. A 4 pin relay only has a normally open pin, and the 5 pin relays have both normally open and normally closed pins. There are Chinese websites that sell all this stuff, some times with single 4 pin plug. Aliexpress is good place to look.
Doug_Scott replied to Gorehamj's topic in The NewsroomNow I know that prices go up every year but, my out the door price on mjy 2010 Sierra extended cab SL was $28363.00CAD. Replacement truck now with same wquipment will run at least $45341.25CAD. That's nearly 60% increase in price. If I add up all the cost of living increases I have received since 2011 to 2019 it amounts to just over 9.5% total. Unreal how much they have gone uo. And I selected the 4.3 engine instead of the 5.3 since my current truck has the 4.8 engine.
Doug_Scott replied to RichieB9280's question in Ask the GM TechnicianDon't have any experience on the 6500, but, unless Allison is different from most everyone else in the transmission game, the pressure in the lines and cooler is not very high. As for the slipping, depending how many miles you drove with it slipping you may have burnt the clutch discs enough to require a rebuild. Check wreckers in your area for the lines and cooler.
Sears? The company that closed in Canada a while ago leaving me with Kenmore everything, and no where to get parts that were always correct because they would give you a parts manual if you asked when you purchased the appliance. Sears USA will not ship to Canada.
The only reason carburetor'd engines idled at a higher speed was to to allow more air in to help burn the rich fuel mixture caused by the choke restricting the air flow. The choke plate created a higher manifold vacuum that would a tually suck the fuel from the fuel bowl. With direct injection they have a much better system for cold start. I would imagine the engineers did a little dance once they saw what they could do with direct injection.
Have you tried shifting manually? What you are describing sounds like your transmission is going into two forward gears at the same time. Basically a trans brake. Typically in racing a trans brake applied high gear and low gear at the same time. A transmission with a trans brake applied can stop engines with more than 2000 horsepower. Also try disconnecting the battery ground cable, wait 30 seconds, then reconnect it. I would also disconnect the positive WHILE THE NEGATIVE IS DISCONNECTED. After you have the positive cable connected, reattach the negative cable. I have no experience with these computerized transmissions, but I am a firm believer in the mechanical portion is the same, they have just altered the valve body. There should be a way to access the transmission control module (TCM) and see what it is doing as well as trouble codes.
Doug_Scott replied to Plumber101010's question in Ask the GM TechnicianIt was most likely a bad ground connection that also impacted your head unit. You would be amazed at what a bad ground connection can do I did a predelivery inspection on a brand new 1977 Chrysler New Yorker that was shipped with the master ground connection not attached to anything. It's been far too long to recall what one nut missing did, but one was pressing in the cigarette lighter would illuminate the dome light, and another one was applying the parking brake would turn on the door ajar light. There were 5 or 6 bizarre behaviours that did not seem to have any common causes. I ended up having to remove the entire dash in order to locate the master ground location. I found the post installed on the firewall, with the nut loosely wound on about 10 full turns, but not a single wire. I felt the harness about a foot in either direction and found an oddly shaped item in the one direction. After unwrapping about a foot of harness I found a daisy wheel of ground wires with a hole in the centre. Connected it up to the single stud on the interior side of the firewall, put the dash back together and found it fixed all the seemingly unconnected issues. Back then Chrysler paid straight time for wiring repairs which was a good thing given the number of hours I spent on that car. That one car made me always go straight to ground connections first and make sure they are good first.
Your question is not very clear. Please try reading your reply before posting. You will find that you will end up editting the post once or twice to make it more readable before you post it. A short block is essentially engine from the camshaft down, minus sheetmetal and covers. A long block is a short block with cylinder heads, lifters, push rods and rockers, and a drop in engine is everything from top of air filter to drain plug in oil pan, plus forward to engine fan mount. An engine block is just an engine block, no other parts. When you buy a short block from from an auto parts store they will have a warranty on just the short block, not the labour to replace it. Problem with doing an engine this way is that short of a main/rod bearing fail, or a skirt breaking off a piston, just about every other failure is not caused by short block. You need to get the shop to tell you how cyl 3 and 5 are bad. Do both cylinders have 0 psi compression? If that is the case, why are both cylinders at 0 psi? There are really only 2 ways can have 0 psi. Either the pistons both have holes in them, or head has a valve issue. Now, there can be many reasons WHY those 2 things can happen. I watched an episode of gas monkey garage(couldn't find remote, too lazy to get up) last night that actually may fit your scenario. They had an engine rebuilt, then installed it and got it running. They knew enough to run the engine at speeds over 2000 rpm for 10 minutes or so in order to break in the camshaft. If you don't do that you run the risk of wiping the lobe off the camshaft. No lobe, no compression. If you can, take the rocker cover off and have someone crank engine over and watch the rockers for cylinder 3 and 5 and also watch cylinder 7. Watch for a rocker not moving the same as the others. If you see that, the engine was not broken in correctly, and that missing lobe is now floating in the oil as fine metal dust that is likely pressed into the rod and main bearings, requirering replacement. Let us know the answers you find.
There are two sides to this issue isn't there? You have throw all the mechanical parts at it, it would seem to me that you may be overlooking something in the electrical side. This is going to sound stupid, but, when they test do they actually connect a scan tool, or do they simply use a sniffer and look for a light on the dash? Reason I ask is that about 15nyears ago I installed a centrifugal supercharger on a 2000 ML320 Mercedes. This kit was from Mosselman, and would set a check engine light if you ran under boost too long for the evap syztem. At the time we had emission testing on rollers. There was an at idle test and then a simulated.ighway test. I knew it would fail the highway portion. When it came time to test it, it passed with flying colours. Seems AWD vehicles had the idle test, and a test at 2000 rpm in park. The inspection stations only had one set of rollers. And since it couldn't use the rollers, no ECM connection, just an inspection to see if the CEL light was on during the test. I had pulled the bulb out as a "Hail Mary", ,just in case, effort and it paid off. They didn't even bring it into the shop. They backed the truck up to the shop door, ran the sniffer out the door into the exhaust, and used the tach in the dash to do the highway test. It passed the sniffer test easily, he only needed to rest his foot on the gas pedal to get to 2000 rpm. After I got the truck back to my buddies place I stuck the bulb back in and found it had set the CEL on the way to the shop. Merging into traffic on the 401 set the light. I finally resolved the CEL issue by putting two big vacuum cans on it. That truck missed the grandfather limit by a year. Then the government just killed the entire program last year, saying it served its purpose and got the worst cars off the road.
Without knowing what "replaced engine block" means, it is difficult to give any answers as Jsdirt says. With 3 and 5 cylinders being side by each, I would do a quick compression check with all plugs removed. If you have a way to put compressed air into the cylinder, turn engine until one of those cylinders is on compression stroke, then with all plugs in, except 3 and 5 cylinders, put compressed into the cylinder that is on ompression stroke. Don't put in full compressed air charge, you want to see if you are getting air out of the other cylinder. This will check for headgasket blowout between 3 and 5.
You're talking about "dealer take-offs" then. I didn't realize they gave so little on the upgrade. Back in the late 70s we used to give straight up exchange or just the difference in list price between the two. That was only on tires, so we never had an occasion where the customer would take the tires to a different place for installation. Normally the dealership would just bring the vehicle for changeover before the customer took delivery. Do those rims also fit the full size pickups? .
If the coolant is going through the radiator and the temp in the ecu is 185, your 195 thermostat should be closed until the temp hits 195., Does your old Gmc have the same engine as your new truck? Were it me, and 8f the thermostats were the same, I would swap them. You know it does what you want it to do, be a quick way to show that. I have never seen an engine run too cool, seen hundreds if not thousands of engines running hot., I seriously doubt it is 183.3 with a properly working 195 thermostat. Hand held laser based temp meters can be had pretty cheaply, and are pretty accurate for reading temps of important things like the ass of a black squirrel walking away on a 90 degree F day.
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