Doug_Scott replied to dbs600's topic in 2015-2020 Chevy Colorado & GMC CanyonNow that I have thought some more on this, my friend and his son both bought new trucks same day, same salesman, both trucks came with package of dealer installed chrome mirror caps, door handles and running boards. They did not get the original mirror caps or handles back. . My friends truck was an SLT, I think likely had body coloured handles and mirror caps. It was a good day for the salesman. Even though both were GM employee sales. He is the salesman I got my last half dozen new cars from.
Doug_Scott started following One single Knock/Noise on sharp turns and hard braking, ZR2 Power Package; DEALER TO SAVE FACTORY EXHAUST & FILTER, 2000 Silverado 5.3 and and 5 others
Doug_Scott replied to dbs600's topic in 2015-2020 Chevy Colorado & GMC CanyonEasiest way to check it is to go to a GM accessories webstore and price out the parts alone. Sure they don't come installed, but last time I checked for something I wanted for my 2010 the site gave 2 prices. One installed, and one not installed. For what it's worth I have had the OEM cat back, OEM grille, OEM middle SL front seat, OEM radio, OEM ECM & TCM, and OEM air BOX gathering dust in the garage since 2010. I recently had a chance to take a good look at the custom exhaust done by a local shop using rust proof grade stainless steel and a dual outlet magnaflow long muffler. Absolutely rust free. And I have drive an average of approx 3,000 miles/5,000 km a year, the hardest miles on an exhaust system. My point here is 'keeping the OEM parts will turn into a hoarding problem if you are not careful. I only just recently got rid of the OEM 2bbl intake and carburetor off of my 78 Mustang KING COBRA, I took it off the day after the 12 month factory warranty expired and installed an Offenhauser dual port intake with a 600 cfm Carter AFB. I moved that intake/carb setup 8 times. Finally gave it up along with a huge collection of old Dell PowerEdge servers that came from a remote server farm I was running 10 years ago.
Are there any codes set? Check engine light on? As with any vehicle made since the first internal combustion engine chugged off the line at the factory, they all need three things in order to run, fuel, compression and spark. Always start troubleshooting with your eyes, not your wallet. As already suggested, check fuel pressure. If you reproduce the issue at will, see if you can monitor fuel pressure at the same time. Try tapping the MAF sensor and move the wiring around slowly. By tapping I mean take a normal size Phillips screw driver, hold it by shaft and tap with the screw driver handle.
I would suggest you post some basic information like year, make, model to begin with, and then when posting symptoms or steps to recreate try to remember the readers have no idea of what you are thinking. What seems clear as day to you is very likely not so for the reader. Do you mean the power steering stops working after hitting a pot hole, then works again seconds later, or it stays not working until you restart engine? If it were me, and I paid the dealer for them to start guessing, I would expect them to refund the money from the first guess and to put the old motor back in before having the technition to try what's behind door number 2. I personally would be looking for a partially broken wire, bad weatherpak connection, bad ground connection, etc before taking the first swing at the parts bin. But that's just me.
I grabbed an wireless reader that plugs into the aldl port under the dash and then download Torque software. I use the Torque app to clear most codes. There are occasional times it won't clear the codes right away, but they will clear after a couple of startups. I don't know the reason? The reader you need to buy online is an ELM327 protocol tool. They are readily available.
Doug_Scott replied to Imcrazy's topic in 2015-2020 Chevy Colorado & GMC CanyonPoor fuel mileage has been a common complaint going back quite few generations. The old0 4.3 engine was a pig on fuel. I don't think there is much difference between 49 and 50 state akls there used to be. Have to wonder what the seemingly yearly wildfires have done to the environment.
Those are the same two messages you get if you manually disable traction control and stabilitrak. With the engine already in a "limp home" mode the pcm is unable to reduce power the way it would normally do. I can understand how they can send someone in the wrong direction though, unless they recognize the text being displayed in English as being wrong for trouble codes. Trouble codes are never given in English.
Every gasoline engine has 3 requirements, fuel compression and spark. You will notice there is no mention of computer. Ignore any suggestions to skip over those three requirements. Check fuel pressure at fuel rail. Check spark at one spark plug wire and if those 2 circuits are working, do a compression check. You failed to provide even the most basic information. What series is the truck? What engine? Is this truck equipped with hydaboost or just the standard vacuum brake booster/power steering pump?
I have found that if you take a hammer and hit the caliper around the bleeder as well hitting 5he bleeder valve straight down to shock the bleeder. Then try to just tighten the bleeder, not suggesting jyou actually tighten it, just aaply enough pressure to see movement. Hit the bleeder with the hammer again, then try to open the bleeder. Do not apply sudden pressure, slowly increase pressure. If you can see iit start moving, stop and tighten it up again. Then try loosening it again. If you are going to replace the lines or the calipers or both, you simply leave one bleeder valve open on the caliper furthest from the master cylinder. Do not have both bleeder valves open or both calipers removed/disconnected from brake system.. Take the master cylinder cap off and make sure you NEVER let it empty.
With it being 21,000 miles since cam and lifters being changed it is not likely in them. What is the oil pressure gauge ready @ idle? I am too far removed from the trade to know what it sounds like when a lifter implodes, maybe someone reading knows.
Did this happen before the brakes were replaced? Something you can try it is to see if you can open the brake bleeder on the caliper that is getting hot and locking up while it is locked up. If you get a squirt of brake fluid followed by an immediate release of the brakes on that wheel you will have a starting point. Generally that result will point towards a defective flex hose, but, with ABS involved, it could point to issues in other areas. Try to get locked up again, and this time loosen the brake line fitting at the chassis end of the flex hose. If the wheel still appears to be locked up, open the bleeder screw on the caliper again and see if the wheel releases. If it releases, it is very likely the flex hose.
Doug_Scott replied to H.USA's question in Ask the GM TechnicianSometimes upper balljoints will actually seize up when the boot gets torn and water gets in. It will pass standard tests and will appear to be "safe". Then one day they either completely tear the seat out of the joint, or they simple come apart and make the truck look like the wining street stock car at the Saturday night quarter mile track. I would also take a look at the steering stops. Easy to locate, they are where the spindle hits the lower control arm at full turn. It may be on the upper control arm instead of the lower. I would start getting the tools together for swapping out the upper ballpoint with the split boot.
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