You sure you have the sockets installed in the right spots? My truck(2010 GMC Sierra uses the headlights for daytime running lights, and the parking lights are the second filament in the signals. The picture you posted looks like both your DRL and parking lights are both amber, is that correct? Do they both use the same bulb and sockets as well? You can also look into each socket after removing the bulbs and note whether the sockets are for single or dual filament bulbs, and verify that the bulbs are also for single or dual filaments. Try swapping the bulbs side to side and see if the issue also moves over.
Take a look at the socket of both the parking light and the DRL light. Make sure that the bulbs do not have a filament broken and dropping down on the other filament. The easy way to check ground is to use a test light and connect it to the positive post on battery and touch the socket or the ground strap on the socket. When on positive cable, you want the test light to come on. If you connect your test light to a good ground, and poke around everywhere on the parking light/DRL light. What you do not want is the light to come on. Your issue really sounds like a bad socket/ground or a broken filament in the bulb. If your front end is like the 2010 GMC it is a bitch to try to even get to the parking lights/headlights to check stuff. On my truck you have to remove the headlight assy to change any of the lights. This is the first vehicle I have owned that required me to go to my big tool box just to change a parking light bulb. My big tool box lives at my buddy's house since I can't work on the truck on my own anymore.
I would be interested in where you are finding the data to back up your claim. If you are actually serious keep in mind that people who are not having any issues just keep it to themselves. That's the problem with people these days, they take something posted on the internet as being factual and then parrot it.
Bit of a story first, I put 4.10 gears in my 2010, in 2010. Dealer could not reflash to correct speedo, GM tech line refused to supply a bin to correct speedo because they don't support just putting 4.10 gears in. I don't get it, 4.10 gears actually make it easier on the powertrain, but who am I, just the customer. Anyways, I was already talking to blackbear about getting a tune and he said he could fix the speedo as well. Since my truck was brand new I was kind of concerned about the tune and warranty. My dealer treats me great, but, you never know. Justin got me replacement ECM and tcm and he did the speedo fix on the ECM and shipped both pieces to me. I was going to a live tune session 3 months later, so that's why he sent them out. I replaced both and after relearning the security thing so the truck would start I got the same error code. I went to my dealer and told the service manager I just needed some relearn procedure due to my swapping the ECM to correct my speedometer. He was still pissed at the tech line for effectively shutting down every post sale gear changes that they usually get after new orders are closed off and they have to sell what they can find. Never really thought they would have that many gear swaps, but they did. They never had an issue before my truck either. They did the relearn so quick I didn't even make it to lounge. For free as well. Got the blackberry tune that July. Best mod ever. Pretty sure changing the crank sensor may trigger that code as well. I would just show up saying you swapped the sensor on the side of the road while your pregnant wife was in labour, and now you need the relearn done so you can take your newborn home. Wouldn't want to have the truck give out again. Shouldn't have to resort to shit like this, but sometimes it is actually fun to make then feel bad.
The change oil light means the oil life monitor has reached its limit and you should change the oil. Note that the oil life monitor has no idea if the oil has been changed or not, you need to reset the monitor after each oil change. The monitor uses time, distance, how the vehicle is driven etc to decide when a change is necessary. If you are flooring the gas pedal and the first shift you feel happens at 55 to 60 mph it can still be in first gear. It depends on which gears you have in the rear end. If your truck has the 4L80E transmission, and you have 3.08 rear axle, at 5000 rpm you would be doing 60mph. These trucks can have some long legs. The only issue this creates is it is dead slow from a stop. To give you an idea of how those gears behave, my truck has 4.10 gears, same diameter tires, and my transmission is a 4L60E, at the same 5000rpm my truck is only going 37 mph. There is a difference in the 1st gear between the two transmissions as well, the 4L80E has a 2.48 1st gear, while the 4L60E has a 3.06 1st gear. I have been hearing the term "limp home mode" since the beginning of EFI. I have never experienced it. I have however experienced the "walk home mode". When I was told about limp home mode I was told the ECM would default back to "safe" settings, and you would be hard pressed to feel the difference in normal driving. If you have the owners manual, give it a read. It is sometimes quite useful to spend an hour in the driveway behind the wheel with the owners manual familiarizing yourself with all the features you truck has.
Something you need to understand about automatic transmissions is that 1st gear has 2 ways to engage it. When shifter is in Drive, 1st gear will not provide engine braking, it will actually freewheel when it is engaged by the transmission when slowing down. It may appear or give you the impression it is slipping if you slow with your foot off the gas, and slow to about 5mph, then step on gas. The engine will feel like it has to catch up to the transmission. This is something that for some reason once you have noticed it doing this, you will learn how to make it happen, and it will do it every time. If you put the shift lever into 1st gear at 5mph you will feel the engine braking. The engine braking is accomplished by apply a band in the transmission. When in drive, the transmission uses an over-running or one way clutch to get 1st gear. This clutch will only prevent the drum from turning when driven by the engine, and when slowing, that drum will just free wheel when driven by the output shaft. In manual low or manual 1st gear, the drum is held by a band causing the output shaft to be connected to the engine side of the drum, giving you engine braking. That was a lot longer than I intended. As for the other issue, I would check for the vacuum leak. It is a pretty common issue. Would be helpful to post the exact codes.
Take a good look at the underside of the rotor. If there is any black, replace it. If the exhaust is blocked you should be able to get the truck to fail within seconds. Start up engine, pull straight out onto road and floor the gas pedal. A partially or mostly plugged exhaust will show up instantly.. To validate its exhaust, put fuel pressure gauge on it and watch fuel pressure when it starts running bad.
On high humidity days you use up all the cold air getting the water out of the air. Setting it to recirc will correct the issue pretty quickly. Problem then is itchy eyes and dry throat.. How much did he want to change the sensor? If it was under $100 - $125 have him fix it and watch him to get the location. Then you can post the results and location, mine needs one as well, and GM has too many parts/sensors/relays that look alike for me to spend my retirement disabled time to look for it.
Generally you can find what is drawing the power by removing fues one at a time, and then relays, one at a time, then disconnecting modules, including alternator. Try to not remove two things without checking the first one. A draw that big should be easier to locate.
You may want to try swapping the relay with one of the other ones in the fuse panal. The relays tend to be interchangeable, as long as they physically fit. I would first rule that out. I know you have tried bypassing it and the truck starts, that leads me to try swapping the relay first before movie on with diagnosis.
What does the owners manual say about this. It has the correct information for your vehicle. Your post does not include any information regarding to year, model or submodel. Just because it was posted in a forum that is related to a specific model does not mean your post was to the correct forum. Check your owners manual, it's just a lot quicker.
The truck will likely be gone from the lot within a week and sent to the auction. If the body is good, and looks presentable, it will be picked up by one of those used car lots that always seems to have lots of inventory. Around here when a dealer gets a trade in on a new vehicle they will first look at what they think they will get at auction compared to what they will get on their used car lot. On a 16 year old truck that looks clean, good body, good interior and not needing anything big, they will get their money back, and maybe a bit more, but the biggest return is that they won't get any negative issues with the vehicle this way. Don't know about you, but I always hated trying to sell something that I knew had issues. But I had no problems dumping it off on a dealer.
You should check the front end components, like ball joints, tie rod ends, and if equipped pitman and idler arm. The jerking steering wheel is very likely the front tires going side to side. You may want to get the alignment checked on the front wheels, having castor set too high can create this "shimmy".
You will likely get more responses if you include some details. My best guess would be that you are running big wheels and tires on a raised suspension 4 wheel drive truck. If that is what it is, the quick patch is a steering stabilizer. Provide more details, and maybe we will in return.
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