Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


carnau last won the day on March 8 2018

carnau had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

273 Excellent


About carnau

  • Rank
  • Birthday 02/21/1980

Profile Information

  • Name
  • Location
    South Carolina
  • Gender
  • Drives
    1985 C10

Recent Profile Visitors

3,174 profile views
  1. Wow. I thought you had bought a set of 2015 aftermarket mirrors to go on your 2015 truck. Y will refigure this for a 2013. lol I am sorry.
  2. 2001 sierra map sensor

    Why do you think you need a map sensor? If I were going to get one I would get https://amzn.to/2V4crjF. All a map sensor has to do is read pressure.
  3. If you wired it into the black wire there is no control and the lights would be on all the time. Actually after doing a little more digging if you wired it that way you wouldn't flash. I love electrical stuff and that multimeter will do everything you ever want to do. I have a Fluke 87 and an 88 but I use them daily on vehicles, so I spent the extra money. The right way to do this job would be to run it off of a relay. But you know, If it were me. I would just put an Add a circuit in on the LT Park fuse and wire it straight to my lights and be done with it. Add-a-circuit - https://amzn.to/2W6AWcw (thats a 10 pack because 1 is $6 and 10 are $9)
  4. Resetting ABS light

    Before you just throw parts at your truck you should do a little checking. Lol. What kind of sensors did you buy? I have had a lot of problems with the Dormans. And by a lot... I mean ALL. I am guessing you have a B0083 and a B0084. Is this right? If so does it give you the sub code? The thing with an 83 and an 84 code is they have multiple codes. DTC B0083 00 - Left Front Impact Sensor DTC B0083 0F - Left Front Impact Sensor Erratic DTC B0083 39 - Left Front Impact Sensor Internal Electronic Failure DTC B0083 3A - Left Front Impact Sensor Incorrect Component Installed DTC B0083 71 - Left Front Impact Sensor Invalid Serial Data Received DTC B0084 00 - Right Front Impact Sensor DTC B0084 0F - Right Front Impact Sensor Erratic DTC B0084 39 - Right Front Impact Sensor Internal Electronic Failure DTC B0084 3A - Right Front Impact Sensor Incorrect Component Installed DTC B0084 71 - Right Front Impact Sensor Invalid Serial Data Received So as you can see above, you really need to know the Sub DTC. If I were guessing (which i have been on the 83, 84 because you didn't tell us the code you have just the problem.) You probably are getting an 83 3A and 84 3A. But then again... I am just guessing again. Without knowing the whole DTC I can lead you through all the checking if you have a multimeter and know how to use it. But that's a whole long process and if it is just a 3A problem... Get some decent sensors and the code will clear itself. You can't clear SIR codes until the problem is fixed. It does a self check right away and when it see's a problem it turns the light on. As soon as the problem is fixed it will turn itself off and then you can clear the codes from the computer. I hope you didn't throw your old sensors away. lol
  5. Ok, So I am going to just give you the answer you're looking for instead of explaining the right way to do this job. Wire your ground to the body of the truck and splice your red wire into the light green wire on the back of your left headlamp. That is your right side marker/turn signal circuit. This means they will flash with your left turn. If you want a decent multimeter get a https://amzn.to/2KYqJhh. It is a True RMS meter. It's the least expensive TRMS meter you will find.
  6. You sure it isn't the condenser itself? There has been so many issues with them. Here is the video on how to replace it if this is actually the problem.
  7. A/C Condenser

    You can literally do this job in less than an hour. Here is the video on how to do it.
  8. Yeah use a shop to do it so they can vacuum it down. Here is a video on how to do it though. It also Has the amount of Freon you need in the video.
  9. There is a fuse block on the passenger side. I wired this up exactly on another truck just to see if it would work. F10 is the fuse number like in the schematic above. No, lower the glove box means to open it, then remove the 2 tabs that hold it up and it will lower down.
  10. AC/Heat Screen Blank

    Control head went out. You can get an inexpensive one from Dorman/Amazon. https://amzn.to/2FZYWbA
  11. No Heat at Floor

    Replace the cabin air filter. It is probably restricting air flow and the floor vents are already restricted in the air box anyway to make sure that the defrost gets the most amount of air ( its like 75/25 defrost/floor from the factory )
  12. Rough idle

    Unfortunately no. Sounds like he just thru parts at it too and really replaced something you didn't need replaced. There is no reason the replace the APP and the Throttle body at the same time. Both work on different systems all together but are controlled together. The reason your vehicle is idling incorrectly is because the throttle body was replaced and the idle learn was not done. This needs to be done using the proper scan tool. If he doesn't have access to one, you may need to take it to the dealership to have it done. Also if the Idle learn doesn't fix it (and this happens a lot) a reprogram of the PCM will need to be done. I know this video will not help with the repairs, but it kinda explains what is going on. You should never clean/replace your throttle body unless you have the tools to relearn the idle. Hope this helps.
  13. Dorman 615-183 intake

    Just a quick question. Why are you wanting to replace the intake?
  14. Ok, So here is how I would wire it. 1.) Lower the glove box and mount your relay to the air box. 1a.) Mount the switch to your dash knee bolster (or where ever you want it to go) 2.) Run 2 power wires (red) from the Battery to the inside of the vehicle using 14g red wire and round insulated butt connectors at the battery side. Leave the wire loose at the battery and connect (1) red wire to terminal 87 of the relay using a blue insulated butt connector. Connect the other red wire to the On/Off toggle switch. 3.) Run a (red) wire from the other side of the toggle switch to terminal 86 of the relay 4.) Run a ground wire (black) from the inside passenger side dash mounting bolt using the black wire and an insulated round butt connector. Connect that wire to terminal 85 of the relay. 5.) Using the (Blue) wire, run a wire from terminal 30 of the relay, to the add a circuit. Install a 15amp blue fuse in the add a circuit and remove the cargo lamp fuse (F10) in the passenger fuse block. Install the add a circuit in the cargo lamp fuse (F10). 6.) Connect the red wires at the battery. Always remember to use insulated crimping pliers when using insulated butt connectors. If not, it's pointless to have them. Second, If you know how to solder, do away with the butt connectors because soldering is always better and just use heat shrink to cover your open wires. Parts needed: 2 pin 25amp 2 way on/off switch. - https://amzn.to/2CYlnMC Relay circuit - https://amzn.to/2I7yJta 14 Gauge wire 100ft (4 colors) - https://amzn.to/2IaCTjV Add a circuit - https://amzn.to/2K3HF5x Insulated Heat Shrink Terminal kit (will have butt connectors and round terminals) - https://amzn.to/2FLwDfF Stripping pliers -https://amzn.to/2TV8zfs Insulated Crimping Pliers- https://amzn.to/2uLitWN Non-LED Test Light - https://amzn.to/2Ibgq6m Soldering Lead/Rosin core Solder - https://amzn.to/2UfmYbj Heat shrink kit - https://amzn.to/2FNgeaB

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.