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carnau

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carnau last won the day on March 8 2018

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About carnau

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  • Birthday 02/21/1980

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  1. WOW! Thanks so much! I was completely kidding. I really do appreciate it, you didn't have to! Thanks again!
  2. Yes, the needle has moved for some reason. I have seen this multiple times. The good thing about this is it is an easy fix. Remove the cluster and take the outter glass off. reinstall the cluster and turn the igntion on when the engine is completely cold. Remove the needle by GENTLY prying up on it and put it back at 0. Test it to make sure its working correctly and then reinstall the glass. Very easy repair.
  3. Maybe carbon build up on the pistons? I would try some top engine cleaner or let someone do an induction system service to clean out the carbon. Sometimes (especially on the 2000-2006 tucks when they got cold the carbon on top of the pistons would get hard and make a ticking noise like this for 3 or 4 minutes after sitting over night. Once the engine got hot the carbon would melt and no more noise. You could take some top end cleaner and while the engine was running remove the brake vacuum hose and add the cleaner though there. The truck would smoke really bad (great for keeping the mosquitoes away) and then the noise would be gone for a year or so and then we would have to do it again. Unfortunately you have a vacuum pump on this and can't add it though the vacuum hose so you would need a tool to add it through the intake or remove the map sensor and add it though there very slowly. or It could be a collapsed lifter as well that's taking time to build up. As long as it keeps building up it shouldn't be a problem. It will only be a problem when it doesn't lift any longer.
  4. I am right there with you. I don't see how this could fix it. When you go, ask to see the part that was replaced and take a picture of it. They will not let you have it because GM could call for the warranty part back. I am curious to know what they replaced though lol. This truck only has a HVAC control module that controls the Manual and Automatic part of the system so I really have no idea what they are talking about. Yes please let me know what they replace. lol
  5. Yeah, it was in the post lol. You need to do a logic lock reset. Remove the battery cables and let them sit off for longer than 5 minutes. Remove both cables. If you don't want to wait the 5 minutes you can hold both of the battery cables together for 30 seconds (with them both off the battery) and it will do the same thing as waiting longer than 5 minutes with the cables disconnected. What you are trying to accomplish is depleting the capacitors.
  6. I personally have a Rough Country speedometer calibrator. It works easy and I charge people $20 to set there tire sizes (and they are glad to pay that when other people charge way more) so it has paid for itself 100 times over. You will probably pay someone 50-100 to do it, so you may as well spend the 130 and do it yourself and own the tool in case you go back stock or change to 33's again in the future. https://amzn.to/3eWPftt is the one I have. It says it only goes through 2018 but I have done 2020 vehicles. I did a 2020 AT4 The other day we put a set of 35's on with a suspension lift. Worked fine on it.
  7. Ok. So the reason this happened (or should I say the most common reason) is because someone pressed the brake pedal really hard (maybe getting into an accident. That's where I see it the most) The new OEM booster can absolutely have this happen again. More than likely you won't have this happen again. But it is man made. Things break. That's why I got a job. Is it a 2500 diesel? If it is a 1500 you dont have a hydro booster. Vacuum Boosters are easy to replace. You remove the master cylinder (do not disconnect the brake lines) it has 2 bolts holding it on. Disconnect the vacuum. Take the through rod loose from the brake pedal assembly (it has one 10mm bolt and a slide to hold the BPPS on) and then you remove four 15mm nuts and the booster comes right off. No you can ABSOLUTELY do this yourself. It is super easy. https://amzn.to/2NO9OfW is the part you need. Here is a video (I know it is a 2006 but the principles are the same.) You don't have to adjust the rod depth though on a 2016.
  8. The dealership didn't know what to do with this? You have a leaking diaphragm. I repair these all the time. They are really bad on the Acadia,Traverse,Enclaves. Replace the brake booster assembly. If you have a hydro booster let me know and I will explain to you how to do it on that because the diaphragm is different on those. What is happening is when it sits a long time the rod slips in the diaphragm and after you press it, it reseats it. That's also why you can press it extremely hard and get it to make the noise.
  9. Unfortunately if the LED part of the headlamp is out, You will have to replace the whole assembly. I priced one the other day and it was around $1300.00 for a GM headlamp assembly for these vehicles. I Have not been on the inside of one of these yet, because if you disassemble the headlamp assembly they will not take the core back and that is $300. Could just buy a aftermarket set. But they are never as good as OEM. https://amzn.to/2BQSEvm But for the cost you can buy 4 sets by the time you buy one GM headlamp.
  10. Hey Everyone. Thought I would explain a little about the transfer case codes we run into on these vehicles and how to diagnose and repair it if you run into it. !!!ALWAYS CHECK YOUR POWERS AND GROUNDS FROM THE START!!! Power Comes from the under hood fuse block. TREC Fuse 30Amp. It is HOT at all times. Ground is G110 Located on the Frame, Body mount under driver’s door. C0306 Motor A or B Circuit On the C0306, One thing to check for is that the grounds tend to cause this concern. I have run into many loose or broken grounds from other components using the main ground for the encoder motor and interfering with it. So check all your grounds. Battery ground to the engine and frame, the Head ground most likely will cause this. G110 is the Encoder motor main ground. It’s located on the frame rail under the driver’s door attached to the body mount bracket. C0321 Transfer Case Lock Circuit On the C0321, Check the Transfer case control module for corrosion in the connector. If you ever had a windshield replaced and it wasn’t sealed right. It seems to be the place the water wants to go. Check for water intrusion on the connector. Another common failure is when encoder has been replaced or repaired and the position sensor was not aligned correctly. I will be making a video of how to install a new sensor and the alignment process for this as well. Again, Check ground G110 just to be on the safe side. I like to remove and clean this ground whenever I do this job. C0327 Encoder Circuit Malfunction On the C0327, Check to see if the wiring harness is in the bracket. Sometimes the wiring harness will not be installed correctly after a repair was done (replacing transmission, transfer case, encoder, and it will hang down and rub the front drive shaft. This will cause a number of issues, many of times I have seen this. If all the wiring tests good, more than likely you have an encoder motor position sensor failure. Replace the sensor and the gasket and it should repair the concern. Again, Check G110 just to be on the safe side.
  11. Can you take a video of the noise and post it. I have run into many water pumps causing these noises on startup and then going away when it gets hot.
  12. I have this in an 85 K10 that I built. 383 Engine, NPR Trans with a 373 rear end. I Upgraded my TC to the 89-67L though. The only big upgrade I did besides clutches.
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