The back of your radio should look like this. In the box of the radio I just listed it comes with the wiring harness to go from VDR to PGPS. You can send amazon a message on that just to make sure. But I am 99% sure of this. I actually believe I have a few of the harness at the dealership still in the box from the vehicles that didn't come with it. I will double check.
You wouldnt want to go any higher than a 144lb/hr at 43.5psi (most people would say 145/44) without getting some kind of tune and upgraded internal engine components. It really is what you're looking at doing with it. If you're looking for just a better injector. Go with a Delphi reman 4 hole injector. https://amzn.to/2Oeaj23 But if you're looking for performance. A set of AUS 124lb/hr at 43.5 or if you want to push it go with a 144/43.5
Like the users above said. The oil cooler bypass plate gasket looks like it is leaking. I would replace the oil pan gasket and the oil cooler bypass plate gasket at the same time. Very easy to do and there are 1000 videos of it on Youtube. Oil Pan Gasket - https://amzn.to/2Y52dO0 Oil Cooler Gasket - https://amzn.to/2OgR3kM
Do you have access to a decent scanner? One that has a misfire graph, or counter? You need to know which cylinder is skipping. From there we can help you diagnose the problem. For instance if the Number 1 cylinder is skipping. Swap the number 1 and 3 plug and wire and see if the skip changes cylinders. If it does not - Test the injector balance (a decent scanner and fuel pressure tester will be needed) If the drop is within specs Test the compression of cylinder 1. It should have 150 - 175 non running compression. If it does Preform a snap throttle compression test. These are the steps you could do if you knew which cylinder is skipping. You can swap the injector test for the compression test. That's just the order I like to go in. You could also swap the injector with a different injector and see if the skip changes cylinder as well if you don't have access to the proper equipment. And I know you said you cleaned the injectors. That doesn't mean is has the proper balance. I did a quick google search for a scanner that has a misfire counter and balance tester and this is the one that showed up. Scanner - https://amzn.to/2ubIfDq
I actually just posted this last week to another guy who is getting this system. This is a complete plug and play system that is a perfect fit for your Tahoe. It mounts in, and has everything you need. You can even install a backup camera if your vehicle doesn't already have one (It will automatically work if you already have a factory backup camera). No Dealership programming required. No wiring harness, or wiring required. I hate the way aftermarket radios look in a vehicle. But this looks FACTORY. Even when you start the vehicle it will come up with the GM Make logo. Radio - https://amzn.to/2ufJdyE
I personally have not used it. I do however install the remote start kits A LOT and the one I will recommend is by far the easiest ( that I have installed ) and you don't have to use a different remote. The factory remote you have operates it. This is a novice installation job. The instructions are fool proof and if you need any assistance, I can help you with it. Remote start kit - https://amzn.to/2FkSr2U [DIY BASIC INSTALLATION KNOWLEDGE REQUIREMENT] This is not a complete plug & play remote start kit. The installation of this product will still require limited wiring connections which we provide concise directions for. ** It is important to note at a minimum, a person with a basic knowledge of wiring car electronics should be able to install this product successfully. * Special Note - Our remote starts are ONLY compatible with AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS.
The only time number 4 vents is when there is no fuel being put into the system and the pressure is so high that it actually pushes the tamper ball up allowing the neck to vent. Older trucks and cars without a tamper ball you are absolute correct. But on this vehicle when you fill it pushes the tamper ball in blocking off the neck vent. this makes it so it has to go through the charcoal canister and help with emissions. When the gas cap is on and you are driving. If for some reason (lets say the vent was stuck closed or the canister saturated with fuel from over filling) then the tamper ball would move up allowing the neck to vent so the fuel tank would not pressurize and split at the seams. Difficult to fill Evaporative emission (EVAP) canister restricted EVAP vent valve stuck closed Hose between canister and canister vent solenoid twisted or kinked if applicable High fuel temperature Fuel filler hose is kinked Faulty dispensing nozzle Ignition switch ON, vent valve closed
Here is the way this system works. When you fill the truck you put the gas pump in #5 the fuel neck. Fuel goes into the tank #6 and then the pressure goes out to the canister#2 in pipe #9. The pressure then goes through the canister #2 and comes out the vent hose #8 and then out the vent #7. If you're having a problem it is probably either the canister #2 (most likely) or the vent #7. Here is the way you can check. Disconnect the pipe at #8 where it connects to the canister. Take it and get fuel. If it fills fine replace the vent. If it doesn't. Disconnect the pipe at #9 at the canister. Get fuel. If it fills fine, replace the canister. Evap Canister - https://amzn.to/2W4hUTP Evap Vent - https://amzn.to/2UCy9XG
We are going to need more information. Year/Make/Model of the truck. What codes are stored? When the engine light flashes, that means the truck is skipping. Find out which cylinder is skipping and let us know. The traction light is a system disabled message from the ECM. Nothing to worry about. When we fix the skip, we will fix the traction light.
carnau replied to avy03's topic in 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500How may remotes do you have? If this isn't working you have 1 of 2 problems. 1.) The transmitter is faulty. 2.) The PDM is faulty. Everything is self contained and if the module is working (door locks lock all the doors from the passanger door), then the communication wires are good to the body control module. First thing I would do is try a new transmitter. Just because the transmitter tests good sending out a signal doesn't mean it is the right signal. If that doesn't fix it, I would replace the Passenger door module. Transmitter - https://amzn.to/2CiF9C4 19115820 Module - https://amzn.to/2u8P34T
I am absolutely right there with you. I hate the way aftermarket radios look. This one is really nice and flush. Gives you that stock feeling. I actually even thing when you start it up it comes up with the GM logo. lol
That's a very good suggestion. I would definetly do this just to make sure the Ground is good. BUT. If the gauges are good normally that will mean that the ground is good. How capable are you of testing circuits? You have 2 powers in going to the cluster. Circuit 1639 Which is a pink wire that is terminal 5 at the cluster connector. This circuit is powered in run/crank positions. Circuit 2840 Which is a red/white wire that is terminal 1 at the cluster connector. This circuit battery positive (hot all the time) The ground circuit is Ground 201 circuit 1851 terminal 13 Black/White at cluster connector Using a cheap test light. (cheap test lights have no led's and a regular bulb which makes testing better) Test those circuits. If you have power and ground, (and you know you have communications because the gauges are working) you have a bad instrument panel cluster.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 146 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,067 Guests (See full list)
- @[email protected]
- vase 17HC
- 15 Z71
- Travis Gipson
- Truck Guy
- Willie mac
- Chris Thornton
- Butch cipully
- Junior Truck
- Nola Sciko
- 14 Silvy
- Smokin Stangs
- Street Queen
- 300 Blackout