carnau

Double Post. Sorry

That's right. The MQE replaced the M5U. The MQE is what comes in all 19/20 trucks though. So the guy in this thread would have the MQE transmission as well. That's all I was saying.

There isn't a GM fix for it yet.

Do you know how to do a parasitic draw test? Do the test without pulling any fuses and find out what your base draw is. Come back here and let me know so I can do some more checking. https://youtu.be/yaHn0qOIHqg

This is actually an old version of it. The new version is #PIE0589A: Engineering Information - Request for Pictures On Rear View Camera Not Aligned Customer Concerns - (Nov 30, 2020) We actually fixed on of these recently. Shim the left side handle retainer with a .50mm/0.02" flat washer This isn't the repair for it in GM SI. But it will fix the concern.

MQE isn't a revised RPO, It is just the RPO that came out in the 2019 and up vehicles unless that's what you're talking about? M5U and M5X Are 8 speeds between 2015 - 2018 This is the 2019 - 2020 Trouble Shooting forums so everyone here should have the MQE 8 Speed.

It's the bolt that holds the HVAC box to the firewall. If something fell that means the case retainer is cracked and fell down. Here is a picture.

I wouldn't spend any money in it till I knew what was going on. That's money you could spend in purchasing a decent scanner and finding out what the problem is. Then you have a tool forever that you can use. Let me know the codes you get so I can help you further. Without them, it's all a guess.

Unfortunately not. Go to a programming shop that can program update the programming for you. It can be done.

What Year/Make/Model is it? What are the codes? Get me a little more information and I can help you.

Which part is their problem? You purchased a truck knowing it had the option. That's like buying a Pepsi and saying it should have Coke in it...

Ok, So part of this is exactly the problem. It's just very general which doesn't help you and that's no fault to @rusty503. He is exactly right. I have run into this many of times on these vehicles since i am the electrical specialist at our dealership . Unfortunately I can't see the vehicle to test it so I am not going to say it is not a body control module failure. Because it absolutely could be. Do I think it is? No. But again I can't test it personally so I will not say they are definitely wrong. I will explain to you though why I believe it is wrong and what I think you should look for in case the BCM does not fix it. And please, If the BCM fixes it let us know. I really enjoy these types of problems and am interested. The BCM uses voltage to keep it's memory (this is why it could be a bad BCM) When it falls below a certain voltage the Capacitors in the BCM discharge and this sends it into a relearn mode (telling you to roll the windows up and down, ect..) This is why I don't think the BCM is the problem. I believe you have a voltage drop problem on one of your battery cables. This is actually an easy test and don't take long. Do a loaded voltage drop test across your battery cables. You need less than 0.1 volt across all of them even though 0.2 volts is acceptable. If your voltage drop is higher on any of those cables or across the battery block (which is where I normally find the problem. Either a lug that's barely loose or a crack in the plate) replace it. The reason it's coming up with this is because during cranking the voltage drop is higher than normal. If you have (let's say) 2 volts of drop during cranking that means on a perfect battery your BCM would be seeing 10.8 volts and discharge the capacitors causing your vehicle to go into relearn mode. Here is the catch. Your vehicle isn't doing it every day (which makes me think it is the battery block again..loose lug or crack) so you will not see the full drop. But anything higher than 0.20 needs to be replaced. This will fix your problem IF the BCM doens't fix it. Because again... I can't test the BCM myself. I just have my doubts about it... But it is possible. If you need me to explain anything else, how to do the test or ect... Just quote me and ask so I get the message on my phone. If not i check here every few days. The Ad's are killing me and I don't really like to come here much anymore.

Great! I am glad it helped.

Hey everyone. Range Technology was kind enough to let me use one of their AFM Disablers to review. Since we have a lot of people starting new topics and asking questions regarding how to disable the system, I thought I would create a post with my honest review of the product here along with the video I made reviewing it. Just a little bit about the product. They claim the product will stop the shuddering as your engine cycles between running on half or all cylinders, Improve power at light throttle with all cylinders firing which can actually result in improved fuel economy depending on your driving habits, and keep GM's troublesome valve lifters from no longer be tasked with activating and deactivating constantly, saving you money on costly future repairs by keeping your vehicle in V8 mode all the time. It's Plug and play so there is no tools needed to install. This also enables it to be taken from vehicle to vehicle. This also makes it safe and reversible, as you can remove it if you no longer need or want it. Now, For my honest review. I really enjoyed having the product. It worked great on my 2016 GMC Sierra. I used it ( a little too long for making the video actually. I have had the produce for about 2 moths now and had a few issues trying to get the video completed. But it is FINALLY done!) without any failures, or any warning lights what so ever. I also tested it on multiple vehicles, including my friends new Chevrolet that had less than 1000 miles on it. I even have computer data to back this up in the video. Yes, it does keep the vehicle in 8 cylinder mode all the time. Yes, It did keep my vehicle from shuddering or feeling anything because the vehicle no longer went from V8 to V4 and vice versa. No, I didn't notice very much if any fuel mileage decrease. But I don't do a lot of highway driving because I live in the country. And my FAVORITE part. The Throttle response is AMAZING!!! One thing I have always complained about with GM's newer vehicles is at slow starts and light throttle you feel as if the vehicle doesn't want to accelerate and then it just blasts off. This totally took that away and made it like I had power on demand. You push the pedal and it goes. If for nothing else, that's worth the cost 100% As far as the lifter failures. Everything is man made so of course you could always have a lifter failure. But, It will not be from switching from V8 to V4 because as I mentioned. It keeps the AFM system inactive. Below is my review video on the product. I am sorry for the motion in the video. A lot of the video was taken with me driving and videoing at the same time. Don't worry!!! I buckled up!! www.rangetechnology.com is their website if you are interested in more information. Range AFM Disabler - https://amzn.to/2X5arXD

I am right there with you. I don't see how this could fix it. When you go, ask to see the part that was replaced and take a picture of it. They will not let you have it because GM could call for the warranty part back. I am curious to know what they replaced though lol. This truck only has a HVAC control module that controls the Manual and Automatic part of the system so I really have no idea what they are talking about. Yes please let me know what they replace. lol

Yeah, it was in the post lol. You need to do a logic lock reset. Remove the battery cables and let them sit off for longer than 5 minutes. Remove both cables. If you don't want to wait the 5 minutes you can hold both of the battery cables together for 30 seconds (with them both off the battery) and it will do the same thing as waiting longer than 5 minutes with the cables disconnected. What you are trying to accomplish is depleting the capacitors.

This sounds like a starter bearing squeal.

Hey Everyone. Thought I would explain a little about the transfer case codes we run into on these vehicles and how to diagnose and repair it if you run into it. !!!ALWAYS CHECK YOUR POWERS AND GROUNDS FROM THE START!!! Power Comes from the under hood fuse block. TREC Fuse 30Amp. It is HOT at all times. Ground is G110 Located on the Frame, Body mount under driver’s door. C0306 Motor A or B Circuit On the C0306, One thing to check for is that the grounds tend to cause this concern. I have run into many loose or broken grounds from other components using the main ground for the encoder motor and interfering with it. So check all your grounds. Battery ground to the engine and frame, the Head ground most likely will cause this. G110 is the Encoder motor main ground. It’s located on the frame rail under the driver’s door attached to the body mount bracket. C0321 Transfer Case Lock Circuit On the C0321, Check the Transfer case control module for corrosion in the connector. If you ever had a windshield replaced and it wasn’t sealed right. It seems to be the place the water wants to go. Check for water intrusion on the connector. Another common failure is when encoder has been replaced or repaired and the position sensor was not aligned correctly. I will be making a video of how to install a new sensor and the alignment process for this as well. Again, Check ground G110 just to be on the safe side. I like to remove and clean this ground whenever I do this job. C0327 Encoder Circuit Malfunction On the C0327, Check to see if the wiring harness is in the bracket. Sometimes the wiring harness will not be installed correctly after a repair was done (replacing transmission, transfer case, encoder, and it will hang down and rub the front drive shaft. This will cause a number of issues, many of times I have seen this. If all the wiring tests good, more than likely you have an encoder motor position sensor failure. Replace the sensor and the gasket and it should repair the concern. Again, Check G110 just to be on the safe side.

Can you take a video of the noise and post it. I have run into many water pumps causing these noises on startup and then going away when it gets hot.

I have this in an 85 K10 that I built. 383 Engine, NPR Trans with a 373 rear end. I Upgraded my TC to the 89-67L though. The only big upgrade I did besides clutches.

This is the best advice and the way I would go. Now, before GM decided to go with "change the whole transmission" for the torque converter shudder. They were having us replace the fluid, if that didn't fix it, replace the torque converter and if that didn't fix it replace the transmission. Just something to think about.

Servicing your truck has nothing to do with the fuel injection system. With fuel as terrible as it is right now, If you don't put a injector cleaner in your vehicle every so often, You will have bad injectors. Just the way it is. Check out this vidoe on how to replace them and just do them yourself. I am guessing you're in Canada or something like that with km. So goto your local auto parts store, Pick up all the injectors and then goto a dealership and get the 2 fuel pipes and do it. It's an easy job. here is the problem with changing just one. You have to remove the fuel feed pipes. When you do that, They have to be replaced. If you change just 1 and then another goes out, You are just throwing money away. Those pipes can not be reused and if you try, they will leak. Trust me.. I have tried multiple times to try to save them for people. Here is the video.

Check out the Range AFM disabler. ( https://amzn.to/37ZYQgJ ) I am actually doing a review video on it now. I hate to send it out because it's still not complete and private at the moment. But if you're interested send me a privcate message and I will give you a link. I will upload it here when I am completely done with it. Should be this weekend when I am done and have it completed.

No problem. The way it sounds is like you have a bad touch screen. That the screen is separating and when it does this, the GPS will wander and the stations will jump ect. Luckily this could be a really easy test if your dealer is willing to help you test it. The touch screen can be removed and installed from another like vehicle very easily. Test drive it with the other screen in it and see what happens. If it goes away, Reinstall the old screen in the other vehicle and the new one in yours. It's only four 7mm bolts holding it in and takes less than a minute to remove and install. This is the way I would go with it.

Ah. That means the BCM program is not correct.Or the remote is not correct for the vehicle. 1 of the 2