carnau

Double Post. Sorry

That's right. The MQE replaced the M5U. The MQE is what comes in all 19/20 trucks though. So the guy in this thread would have the MQE transmission as well. That's all I was saying.

There isn't a GM fix for it yet.

Do you know how to do a parasitic draw test? Do the test without pulling any fuses and find out what your base draw is. Come back here and let me know so I can do some more checking. https://youtu.be/yaHn0qOIHqg

This is actually an old version of it. The new version is #PIE0589A: Engineering Information - Request for Pictures On Rear View Camera Not Aligned Customer Concerns - (Nov 30, 2020) We actually fixed on of these recently. Shim the left side handle retainer with a .50mm/0.02" flat washer This isn't the repair for it in GM SI. But it will fix the concern.

MQE isn't a revised RPO, It is just the RPO that came out in the 2019 and up vehicles unless that's what you're talking about? M5U and M5X Are 8 speeds between 2015 - 2018 This is the 2019 - 2020 Trouble Shooting forums so everyone here should have the MQE 8 Speed.

It's the bolt that holds the HVAC box to the firewall. If something fell that means the case retainer is cracked and fell down. Here is a picture.

I wouldn't spend any money in it till I knew what was going on. That's money you could spend in purchasing a decent scanner and finding out what the problem is. Then you have a tool forever that you can use. Let me know the codes you get so I can help you further. Without them, it's all a guess.

Unfortunately not. Go to a programming shop that can program update the programming for you. It can be done.

What Year/Make/Model is it? What are the codes? Get me a little more information and I can help you.

Which part is their problem? You purchased a truck knowing it had the option. That's like buying a Pepsi and saying it should have Coke in it...

Ok, So part of this is exactly the problem. It's just very general which doesn't help you and that's no fault to @rusty503. He is exactly right. I have run into this many of times on these vehicles since i am the electrical specialist at our dealership . Unfortunately I can't see the vehicle to test it so I am not going to say it is not a body control module failure. Because it absolutely could be. Do I think it is? No. But again I can't test it personally so I will not say they are definitely wrong. I will explain to you though why I believe it is wrong and what I think you should look for in case the BCM does not fix it. And please, If the BCM fixes it let us know. I really enjoy these types of problems and am interested. The BCM uses voltage to keep it's memory (this is why it could be a bad BCM) When it falls below a certain voltage the Capacitors in the BCM discharge and this sends it into a relearn mode (telling you to roll the windows up and down, ect..) This is why I don't think the BCM is the problem. I believe you have a voltage drop problem on one of your battery cables. This is actually an easy test and don't take long. Do a loaded voltage drop test across your battery cables. You need less than 0.1 volt across all of them even though 0.2 volts is acceptable. If your voltage drop is higher on any of those cables or across the battery block (which is where I normally find the problem. Either a lug that's barely loose or a crack in the plate) replace it. The reason it's coming up with this is because during cranking the voltage drop is higher than normal. If you have (let's say) 2 volts of drop during cranking that means on a perfect battery your BCM would be seeing 10.8 volts and discharge the capacitors causing your vehicle to go into relearn mode. Here is the catch. Your vehicle isn't doing it every day (which makes me think it is the battery block again..loose lug or crack) so you will not see the full drop. But anything higher than 0.20 needs to be replaced. This will fix your problem IF the BCM doens't fix it. Because again... I can't test the BCM myself. I just have my doubts about it... But it is possible. If you need me to explain anything else, how to do the test or ect... Just quote me and ask so I get the message on my phone. If not i check here every few days. The Ad's are killing me and I don't really like to come here much anymore.

Great! I am glad it helped.

Hey everyone. Range Technology was kind enough to let me use one of their AFM Disablers to review. Since we have a lot of people starting new topics and asking questions regarding how to disable the system, I thought I would create a post with my honest review of the product here along with the video I made reviewing it. Just a little bit about the product. They claim the product will stop the shuddering as your engine cycles between running on half or all cylinders, Improve power at light throttle with all cylinders firing which can actually result in improved fuel economy depending on your driving habits, and keep GM's troublesome valve lifters from no longer be tasked with activating and deactivating constantly, saving you money on costly future repairs by keeping your vehicle in V8 mode all the time. It's Plug and play so there is no tools needed to install. This also enables it to be taken from vehicle to vehicle. This also makes it safe and reversible, as you can remove it if you no longer need or want it. Now, For my honest review. I really enjoyed having the product. It worked great on my 2016 GMC Sierra. I used it ( a little too long for making the video actually. I have had the produce for about 2 moths now and had a few issues trying to get the video completed. But it is FINALLY done!) without any failures, or any warning lights what so ever. I also tested it on multiple vehicles, including my friends new Chevrolet that had less than 1000 miles on it. I even have computer data to back this up in the video. Yes, it does keep the vehicle in 8 cylinder mode all the time. Yes, It did keep my vehicle from shuddering or feeling anything because the vehicle no longer went from V8 to V4 and vice versa. No, I didn't notice very much if any fuel mileage decrease. But I don't do a lot of highway driving because I live in the country. And my FAVORITE part. The Throttle response is AMAZING!!! One thing I have always complained about with GM's newer vehicles is at slow starts and light throttle you feel as if the vehicle doesn't want to accelerate and then it just blasts off. This totally took that away and made it like I had power on demand. You push the pedal and it goes. If for nothing else, that's worth the cost 100% As far as the lifter failures. Everything is man made so of course you could always have a lifter failure. But, It will not be from switching from V8 to V4 because as I mentioned. It keeps the AFM system inactive. Below is my review video on the product. I am sorry for the motion in the video. A lot of the video was taken with me driving and videoing at the same time. Don't worry!!! I buckled up!! www.rangetechnology.com is their website if you are interested in more information. Range AFM Disabler - https://amzn.to/2X5arXD

Both the high side and the low side are at 108 while it is running ans the compressor is engaged?

No. Never diagnose your vehicle using static pressure. So many people make the mistake of using static pressure to "Know" whether the system is charged full or not. The static pressure in a vehicle will correlate to the ambient temperature outside. 108PSI is about 90 degrees outside (I make that knowing that 100 psi is 86/87 degrees ambient) If you buy diagnostic gauges it will actually show you this on the gauge setup (the temperature that is) But in general, static pressures in a vehicle are useless because if your system is overcharged you are going to see very minor increases in static pressure to ambient temp. So, here is what I did. I charged a system to full. Today it was 98 degrees outside and 103 in the shop. After 20 minutes of letting it sit there charged, I looked at the static pressure. It was at 104psi. When I cranked the vehicle it ran at 35/200 which is fine with the humidity. Cooled to 41 degrees out the center vents. I force charged another 0.50 lbs of freon in the system bringing it up to 1.90lbs. After 20 minutes of letting it sit untouched the static pressure was at 110psi. When I cranked the vehicle and let it run, It ran at 43/305 and kept cycling. Cooled to 68 degrees out the center vents. Recovered and recharged the system to the correct amount and temperature was back down and cooling properly. You can change your compressor if that's what you want to do. Just make sure they put the right amount of freon in the system this time and you will be back to running properly. You keep saying you are pulling your hair out, But unless you put the wrong information in your primary post... The answer is right there. 2lbs of freon is too much. It's doesn't make it run any better with more freon in the system. What is your high side and low side pressures at then the system is running?

No one is seeing the problem from what he said? lol You have too much Freon in the system. Your truck only holds 1.4lbs of Freon. If they put 2lbs in it, Your pressure are going to be way out of range and your system will not work correctly. Take it to someone who can recover, vacuum and recharge your system correctly.

WOW! Thanks so much! I was completely kidding. I really do appreciate it, you didn't have to! Thanks again!

Great man! I am so glad it helped! NOW SEND ME SOME MONEY! ?

Yes, the needle has moved for some reason. I have seen this multiple times. The good thing about this is it is an easy fix. Remove the cluster and take the outter glass off. reinstall the cluster and turn the igntion on when the engine is completely cold. Remove the needle by GENTLY prying up on it and put it back at 0. Test it to make sure its working correctly and then reinstall the glass. Very easy repair.

Maybe carbon build up on the pistons? I would try some top engine cleaner or let someone do an induction system service to clean out the carbon. Sometimes (especially on the 2000-2006 tucks when they got cold the carbon on top of the pistons would get hard and make a ticking noise like this for 3 or 4 minutes after sitting over night. Once the engine got hot the carbon would melt and no more noise. You could take some top end cleaner and while the engine was running remove the brake vacuum hose and add the cleaner though there. The truck would smoke really bad (great for keeping the mosquitoes away) and then the noise would be gone for a year or so and then we would have to do it again. Unfortunately you have a vacuum pump on this and can't add it though the vacuum hose so you would need a tool to add it through the intake or remove the map sensor and add it though there very slowly. or It could be a collapsed lifter as well that's taking time to build up. As long as it keeps building up it shouldn't be a problem. It will only be a problem when it doesn't lift any longer.

I am right there with you. I don't see how this could fix it. When you go, ask to see the part that was replaced and take a picture of it. They will not let you have it because GM could call for the warranty part back. I am curious to know what they replaced though lol. This truck only has a HVAC control module that controls the Manual and Automatic part of the system so I really have no idea what they are talking about. Yes please let me know what they replace. lol

Yeah, it was in the post lol. You need to do a logic lock reset. Remove the battery cables and let them sit off for longer than 5 minutes. Remove both cables. If you don't want to wait the 5 minutes you can hold both of the battery cables together for 30 seconds (with them both off the battery) and it will do the same thing as waiting longer than 5 minutes with the cables disconnected. What you are trying to accomplish is depleting the capacitors.

I personally have a Rough Country speedometer calibrator. It works easy and I charge people $20 to set there tire sizes (and they are glad to pay that when other people charge way more) so it has paid for itself 100 times over. You will probably pay someone 50-100 to do it, so you may as well spend the 130 and do it yourself and own the tool in case you go back stock or change to 33's again in the future. https://amzn.to/3eWPftt is the one I have. It says it only goes through 2018 but I have done 2020 vehicles. I did a 2020 AT4 The other day we put a set of 35's on with a suspension lift. Worked fine on it.

No problem. Glad I could help.